Upgrade to 40D vs. upgrade 70-200 f/4 to f/2.8

[john_holmes9]

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I started with a 400d, and with the sole intention of photographing gymnastics (my daughter) I new I needed a fast, versatile lens. I started with a 50-150mm Sigma 2.8 and the results with this combination are fantastic. I have upgraded to the 40d for the higher fps, however I find that I seldom shoot more than 1 frame at a time. I have found with both the 40d and the rebel I try and keep my iso below 1600 or the resultant noise can be a problem. Having experienced both cameras under the conditions you mention I recommend going for the better lens to start with, and the body as soon as possible thereafter. Also use a monopod, it works wonders.</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>John</p>

[amir49]

<p>i think the best lens for indoor sport photography is canon EF 135mm f 2 L ...but you must think for the price of that ...</p>

[jim_larson1]

<p>What focal length do you typically use? What shutter speeds?</p>

<p>From your follow up posts, your primary complaint is out of focus shots, but properly exposed at a shutter speed of 1/200th. With these conditions, image stabilization will NOT help. I think it is really a case of the camera getting confused and focusing on the wrong thing. AI Servo focusing is not the easist thing to use.</p>

 

[ed_v.]

<p>Thanks for all your valuable feedback. To answer some questions from above: I'm already shooting at the XT's max ISO (1600) and the lens' max aperture (f/4). At 1/200 sec. the images are 1 to 2 stops underexposed under the lighting at most small gyms (a few tube fluorescent lights about 40 feet up, each with their own color tinge). For that reason also I'd like to stay with RAW format. I find I'm most often around 100-120 mm focal length at gyms, but there are some shots at 200.</p>

<p>As some posters suggested, I think working on my technique and getting a monopod should be first on my list. Some also suggested the Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 (there's also the Tamron 50-135 f/2.8), but I would miss the 200 end for things other than gymnastics. A fast prime is very attractive since I could afford either the 85 f/1.8 or 100 f/2 without having to sell anything off, so I can keep the 70-200 f/4 for the outdoors. I also have the 50 f/1.8 in case the 100/2 is too long for some events.</p>

<p>So--it looks like I will keep the camera for now and look into the 100 f/2. Thanks again.</p>

[ed_v.]

<p>One of my more successful shots--</p>

[ed_v.]

<p>Sorry--2nd try:</p><div></div>

[philip_wilson]

<p>I shoot quite a lot of indoor sport (kids ice hockey) and find that I need both fast glass and high ISo to stop the action. Usually 1/200 at F2.8 which requires ISO 800 in one of our arenas. IS does not help in the situation (assuming you can hold the lens steady) and you need a camera with good high ISO performance (I use the 5DII). I do not find that AF speed is a major issue (here I am compaing the 5DII to either of my film base 1Vs which essentially have the same AF as the 1 series digital bodies) as most are good enough for this type of sports. Usually I would side with the get the best glass crowd but you may get more out of a better body in your case. A big advantage of the faster glass is a brighter viewfinder which should not be underestimated in sports photography. A full frame camera will also give the same benefit but is probably outside your budget. One thing you may want to llok at is trying the 70-200 f2.8 on the Rebel body. I find that these lenses do not feel right on the small lightweight consumer bodies as they overbalance the camera.</p>

[Mark Keefer]

<p>Ed, I just went through the same upgrade last year. The 350D is a good camera. The 40D is a little better, but if you are shooting the same way with a 40D as you are with the 350D you will still get those blurry shots. Low light sporting events, or low light with any movement is harder to get clean shots. The longer the shutter is open the more movement can happen from camera shake and subject movement... I highly recommend a tripod. A good Speedlite Flash will light up a larger area and allow you to speed up your shutter speed. A good lens with IS can help a lot, Canon L glass is nice to have. A faster f stop will help.<br>

If you are looking to save some money, consider Canon Refurbished equipment, it is as good as new, any issues with the camera/lens have been fixed by Canon and it comes with a warranty from Canon, though the warranty is not as long as if you bought new. You may want to consider used also. A lot of people like to upgrade and it is a chance for you to get a good deal on last years greatest toys for a bargain. I traded in my 350D body, grip and accessories. I kept my kit lens and my 75-300 Lens with no IS. It didn't take long and I decided I needed a better lens with IS. I do a lot of wild life photography, I wanted a better telephoto. I went to my favorite Camera shops and checked what they had and I really started looking at the photos on Photo.net, the photos I really liked and checked out the details to see what equipment was used. I found many of the shots I really liked used a lens I saw at my local Camera shop. I decided the Canon 100-400mm IS with L glass was the one for me. I asked questions on PN and of members who used the lens and got great reviews from other PN members on that lens. I had the choice of New, Refurbished or used. Price was important, this is a serious hobby for me, but I am married and while my wife supports my photography hobby, coming home with a brand new $1300 lens was never going fly. So I found a perfect condition used lens for several hundred less than new. I am very happy with the new used lens. In retrospect, if I had to choose one or the other (new lens or camera body) to improve my photos, I would choose the lens.<br>

The 40D body did give me some nice new options, I can go to 3200 ISO, there are a couple more Mega-pixels over the 350D, oh and that nice big LCD screen and I liked the bigger more rugged body. But the 350D was a good camera also, I took some excellent shots with it. I think the 350D with better lenses would be the way to go if you are doing only one upgrade. You can always upgrade the body next year. ;)<br>

You have to decide what you want the most. Start looking at the photos you like of the kind of stuff you shoot and find out what equipment was used that gives the results you are looking for.<br>

You are doing the right steps here, asking questions on Photo.net, you will get lots of advice on shooting and equipment. It really helped me. Good luck and which ever way you go, happy shooting. :)</p>

[ed_v.]

<p>Hi all - I just wanted to close out this discussion with the outcome. I went to a local camera store advertising good prices on the EF 100 f/2, credit card in hand. The clerk said they had none in stock and didn't know when they would arrive. So, I walked out of the store and noticed another camera store just two doors down. They had no 100 f/2's either, but they did have a refurbished-by-Canon 40D with warranty in a sealed box for a very attractive price. Being the logical and steadfast decision maker I am, I immediately plunked down my credit card and bought the 40D.</p>

<p>I have to say that just playing with it for a few minutes last night in my dimly lit living room I'm very happy with it. Where the XT would have trouble locking focus the 40D did so with the same lens, no problem. Thanks for all your advice.</p>