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Mamiya C330 automatic shutter cock


jason_hall5

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<p>Hello all,</p>

<p>I recently became the owner of a C330 Pro. As you all know its a nice camera, came with a black

shutter 80mm f2.8 and an older chrome shutter 105mm f3.5. for $100.00 USD from a local camera store. He

sold it so cheap because all the shutters were sticking and so he thought they were not worth his time.<br>

Thanks to some lighter fluid and other TLC, all seemed to be working well and in rather good

shape. I loaded a roll of neopan after a new set of seals to give it a try before I did anything

more. I quickly realized the Automatic shutter cocking feature is not working. </p>

<

p> </p>

<p>I have looked and looked and can not find any info on how to get into the camera and see if I can repair it. I

know the issue is in the body because the shaft that connect to the lens board does not move when the film is a

dvanced. </p>

<p

> </p>

<p

>The camera also came with a second black shuttered 80mm, however it is busted. I cleaned it very well an

d opened it up. It was very clean and the shutter fires, but at one speed only, no matter the speed set. My po

int here, is that this is most likely the one that killed the automatic shutter cocking feature.</p>

<p

> </p>

<p

>Is the normal mode of failure eaily repaired or is it so hard to get parts and to get it right, its just not worth it

.</p>

<p

> </p>

<p

>For me alone, I am fine with the manual method, its much quieter anyway. But I am much more partial to my

RB67 and may want to sell the C330. I would like to repair it if its worth it.</p>

<p

> </p>

<p

>Thanks everyone,</p>

<p

> </p>

<p

>Jason</p>

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<p>Jason, I don't have my C330 in front of me right now. As you have figured out, there is a little metal arm that is cammed to the advance crank, and it should swing down to engage the cocking lever on the lens. (It's pretty to watch-- if you remember high school physics, it's moving in simple harmonic motion, because it's linked to the rotating crank.)</p>

<p>The usual reason (I think) why these things don't work is the shutter assembly is rotated a bit in the lens board, so the moving arm doesn't cock the lever. I have had this happen and it is easy to fix. In your case, if the arm isn't moving at all, you have some other problem with the linkage.</p>

<p>If I were you, I wouldn't horse around with it, unless you need to make rapid shots like fashion or event work. You effectively have a C220 now (or a C3) with manual cocking.</p>

<p>Keep the camera and use it-- it's a good walking-around camera, easy to use, few moving parts, no mirror flop-- and you won't get much in resale. Your 105 chrome lens is a tessar design, and IMHO is a very nice lens on 6 x 6. Find (or make) a lens hood for it.</p>

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<p>Thanks Dave. I have recently read that some pros would disable the feature to make the camera quieter and less pron to jamming. Any idea how they did that? </p>

<p>The M/X flash sync selector was glued in place on both of the 80mm lens I got with it. I know that too is often done by pros to prevent screw ups and very bad days. With that, I thought maybe this was owned by a pro at some point.</p>

<p>It is a good walk around with the left hand trigger grip that I have. But I also have a mint condition Yashica A that I have come to really like. Many folks find it so odd that someone is useing such an "old" camera that they forget you are taking their photo. :o)</p>

<p>Thanks again,<br>

Jason</p>

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