Simple, consistent flash fill

[david_waugh3]

<p>I have what is probably a very stupid question but please humor me and be nice :-) I am using a few different cameras, Hasselblad 500cm, Nikon FE2 and F100. I have a Hanimex Pro 550 that I hope to use successfully on each of the cameras. I will be using the same speed film in each body. <br>

My aim, is to be able to add a hint of flash fill to my pics. What I would like to do, is bounce the 550 with a reflector (and probably through a diffuser) and ultimately know that at say 5 meters, I am getting say an extra half stop of light. I am really not concerned with changing the amount of light - I just need to work out a constant, reliable way to achieve around a half stop of light.<br>

I wish I had a digital camera to use and compare, but I assume I'll need a flash meter. Is what I am asking just really stupid, or is this a valid way to work my flash fill? I am assuming that if the Hanimex is set to manual (white dot?) then I will get constant output no matter what setting I have on the camera? Therefore, I should be able to ignore my apertures, and just ensure I don't have the shutter set to more than 125 on the Nikons. I know I'll need a longish PC cord (which I hope exists).<br>

My only flash experience has been with Nikon and Minolta Speedlights which have made me very lazy! 99% of my pics have been available light with reflectors. I am really trying to mimic what a reflector would give me using off camera flash. <br>

Thanks in advance for your help.</p>

 

[dave_s]

<p>David, I'm not much of a flash guy, and one of the sages will answer, but here are some comments:</p>

<p>(i) If your flash unit is set to manual, it will put out its full output. That output will vary depending how much charge is stored, and the capacitor is probably still charging a bit for ten or twenty seconds after the red light goes on.</p>

<p>(ii) The light delivered to your subject will be modified by your particular reflector and diffusor, and also the distance and character of your surroundings. A small room with white walls will give you different results from a convention hall with a 30' ceiling.</p>

<p>(iii) To standardize everything, you could borrow a flash meter, or (better) just shoot a test roll of film under the conditions you'll use your system.</p>

<p> </p>

[picturesque]

<p>You can achieve consistent fill flash but only in situations where everything, including the flash output, is consistent and under your control. This lets out bounce of any kind, because bounced flash results are dependent upon the environment--specifically, what the flash bounces off and the reflectivity of the surroundings.</p>

<p>Bounce off a white card (if you keep the card placement consistent) is possible to control and keep consistent to a better degree than other kinds of bounce. Bounce through a modifier such as a Lightsphere can't be kept consistent. Depending upon the type, fill flash through a diffuser can be kept consistent.</p>

<p>Also, a half stop of light is pretty small to keep consistent in any case, whether bounced or not, since the reflectivity of the surroundings does affect even direct flash, although to much lesser degree. Outside, for instance, where there is usually nothing to reflect off, you can be very consistent--even control half a stop.</p>

<p>Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but when working with flash, ignoring aperture is just not possible, since flash exposure is dependent upon aperture. Maybe explain the set up you are trying to shoot?</p>

[david_waugh3]

<p>Thanks for the info Dave and Nadine. I think I can make the light reasonably consistent by bouncing with the Pro 550's clip on attachment and diffuser. I should have mentioned that I use neg so I don't need exact light output - a stop either side isn't going to ruin anything. </p>

<p>I am probably being far too simplistic, but I just thought that if the flash unit was set to manual and always outputting the same amount of light, then I could just meter for ambient light and just add a touch of fill from the flash. I assumed by keeping a relative distance from the subject, I would get consistent output. Because I'd set the flash to fully manual, and with no camera control of the flash, that I'd be safe to use whatever aperture (simply metering for ambient). Ideally if I had a maths brain, I guess I should be able to convert a guide number to stops and work out that the Pro 550 will give x stop at a certain distance. By bouncing and diffusing however, I will obviously need a light meter to run some tests to get that correct distance. Not to concerned about focal length either as I will be primarily using a 80mm on 6x6 or 50mm in 35.</p>

<p>I have also wondered whether I might be better off with a constant light as I don't exactly need high output - then I could just meter away I guess.</p>

<p>I have no specific requirement in mind - I want to sort this out for everything really - portraits and landscape. A hint of off-camera flash really helps me lift vegetation for example. So I wont be relying on Flash to give me light as such, it's purely fill and nothing else. Thanks for answering a dumbos questions! Appreciate the help.</p>

 

[picturesque]

<p>David--you CAN get consistent light for weak fill using manual flash mode and pre-figuring subject distance at x partial power or following the flash's calculator. You just can't control that output to a fine degree (like half a stop) if you are bouncing the flash off ceilings and walls inside, because the bounce surface impacts the output to a great degree.</p>

<p>However, you CAN bounce the flash off a white card that stays put in the same position more successfully (most successfully outside) by predetermining the guide number with modifier in place. This is because the bounce card can return the same amount of output consistently (and the bounce off inside ceilings and walls can't). So the type of bounce makes a big difference.</p>

<p>I often use weak flash fill outside, using partial power. As you say, I meter for the ambient and use a weak (minus 2 stops, and sometimes even less) fill. Of course, the f stop is the link between the flash and the ambient exposure. By the way, outside, and especially used as weak fill, modifiers don't do a whole lot for you re softening the flash, except cut power, which one often needs outside. I usually use the flash direct (no modifier) but have, on occasion, used a white card when power didn't matter.</p>

[g._armour_van_horn]

<p>The short answer is No.</p>

<p>Your flash is going to put out a certain amount of power. Once you get your bounce-card setup working, that will mean a certain amount of light will fall on a subject five meters in front of the camera. But in order for that to be a half stop increase in light, you have to also control the light falling on the subject.</p>

<p>That basically means no more available light shooting.</p>

<p>Van</p>