j. caputo Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I have read about various upsizing software but most are for PC. What can you MAC users recommend for an upsizing software? I have photoshop CS3. I mention this because I know alot of those softwares are just photoshop plugins such as Genuine Fractals. I am shooting landscape with a Canon 5D and I like to print at 24" x 36". Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmck Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I am using Ben vista Photo Zoom Pro 2.3.4 on my mac mini Running OS X 10.4.11 and Elements 6 with no problems that I am aware of. The website is www.benvista.com and I think they have a try it free down load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin_mattson1 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 If you haven't already, try Photoshop. You may find the Bicubic interpolation routines built into it meet your needs just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. caputo Posted November 29, 2008 Author Share Posted November 29, 2008 I have been using that but other photographers as well as my print house tell me I would get much better results with such large prints if I go with a third party software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathancraver Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I have heard Genuine Fractals and Blow Up (by AlienSkin) work very well. I am not sure about Fractals, but I do know that all AlienSkin software works very well on Macs and are Photoshop plugins. I have never tried either, but own a few other AlienSkin plugins and have been very impressed with them. They usually have demos you can try for 30 days, and I think they let you save your results without leaving watermarks. I would give them a try. Like Colin said, use Photoshop's bicubic interpolation in the Image Size menu first, I would only recommend trying something else if you are going for huge blow- ups. I would think a 5D, with Bicubic interpolation set to 24x36" at 300 DPI would produce very nice results. I know I have gotten beautiful 16x20" prints with a Nikon D70 (6.1 MP) using this method, and your camera is much sharper and higher in resolution than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g dan mitchell Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Let me make yet another suggestion, counterintuitive though it may be. Don't upsize. That's right. I first heard of the following approach on the Michael Reichmann and Jeff Schewe video that goes into some detail on this and other elements of the printing process. Schewe claimed that (in most cases) there is no advantage to uprezzing in PS and then again in the printer. Yes, the printer also uses its own algorithms for this process. His approach is to avoid the uprezzing step, and to instead change the resolution setting in PS until the print dimensions match those that you are trying to achieve. For a small print the resolution could be quite high - for 6 x 9 proofs mine is often in the high 400 range. For a 12 x 18 print from my 5D it will usually be in the 200+ range. When I first heard this suggestion I was very skeptical, since I had also read all of the huffing and puffing about the "right" ways to resize. But given the reputations of these two photographers I decided to try it out - and the results are quite excellent. I always use this method now. Schewe suggests one slight exception to this. Obviously if you make a very large print you resolution could fall below 180, often regarded as the minimum optimal setting. In these cases he suggests doubling the size of the image during RAW conversion. I have not tried this, but both he and Reichmann seemed to think this works well. I used to use the uprezzing tools in Photoshop, and I also used a third-party tool for this. I was OK with the results, but frankly they were no better than what I get with this approach. If you are as skeptical as I was, all I can do is suggest that you actually give it a try and see if it works as well for you as it does for me. (Yes, I do use a Mac.) Dan Two additional comments: 1. Do over-sharpen a bit when you prepare for printing. This compensates for the tendency of ink to spread just a bit on the paper. (Technically, if you are very fastidious about this you would use different sharpening settings for different papers since ink spread differently on them - for example, I have to sharpen a bit more when I print on Museo Silver Rag than when I print on Ilford Galerie Gold Fibre Silk.) 2. The idea of using higher resolution settings for smaller prints actually makes a ton of sense. In order to maintain the smallest details in the smaller print - which will likely be inspected very closely - higher resolutions settings are appropriate. For several reasons, lower resolution will be just fine in the largest prints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathancraver Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 G Dan, I think that you are right, but it also depends on the printer and it's driver / software. Another topic was posted on this recently and myself as well as others have encountered aliasing and digital artifacts when it was left to the printer to do upsizing and uprezzing. I was using an Epson R2400 (and yes, a Mac also) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g dan mitchell Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I'm using a 2200 and a Mac. Aliasing in a _print_ would be exceptionally hard to see given the very high resolutions used for printing and the spread of the ink. How did you find this, and can you point me to the other thread? Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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