Exposure inside of shady canyons

[davepope]

<p>Here is my question. I was recently out in Death Valley hiking and taking photos. I was inside of a canyon, it was shady and the sky outside was clear and blue. What I got on my photos was a washed out sky, every time with every adjustment I made. How should I set my camera up to get the best exposure in the canyon and still maintaining the sky as I am seeing it naturally? Is there a specific filter I should using? Please help.</p>

[luis_g]

<p> The contrast range is larger than the camera's ability to handle it. The easiest way to get this is to learn how to do HDR.</p>

<p>Definition:<br>

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging<br>

An example of what is possible with this technique (which I am assuming is what you're after):</p>

<p>http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2567657970104449086LKqXqY</p>

<p> </p>

[James G. Dainis]

<I>"How should I set my camera up to get the best exposure in the canyon and still maintaining the sky as I am seeing it naturally</I>"<P>

 

You can't by using the exposure settings only. If you were to meter the sky and the canyon walls you would most likely get readings like this using 400 ISO:<P>

 

Sky = 1/1000 sec @ f/8<BR>

Canyon = 1/30 sec @ f/8<P>

 

That is a five stop difference.<BR>

If you use 1/30 sec, the canyon walls will be fine but the sky will be five stops overexposed, white.<BR>

If you use 1/1000 sec, the sky will be fine but the canyon walls will be five stops underexposed, black.<P>

 

Depending on the angle of the sun, you could use a polarizer filter to darken down the sky. You could also use a graduated neutral density (ND) filter to darken down the sky. But, if the canyon forms a V shape at the horizon you may also darken down the tops of the canyon walls.

[waltflanagan]

<p>The dynamic range of the scene is too wide for the camera to capture. Your eyes and brain are much more sophistocated than the camera. You can use a graduated neutral density filter to darken the sky. Depending on the sun and angle a polarizer can also help darken the sky. The other option is to take multiple exposures and merge using HDR software.</p>

[dbcooper]

<p>What kind of camera? Shooting digital? Film?</p>

<p> </p>

[david_henderson]

<p>You need to know what the dynamic range of your camera is- what range of brightness your camera can cope with without either blowing highlights or clocking up shadows. You can do this via testing or indicate your camera ( and film if appropriate ) and hope that someone can tell you. It varies between about 4 and 11 stops depending on your answer.</p>

<p>You need a means to measure the difference in brightness between the brightest area in which you want to show some detail and the darkest shadows in which you want to see detail. Most modern cameras have a spot or partial metering option to help with this.</p>

<p>If your subject brightness range exceeds th dynamic range of your camera or film you can do several things to reduce it.</p>

 

<ul>

<li> You can buy one or more neutral density graduated filters and an appropriate holder to slide oveer the brightest part and reduce subject brightness range.</li>

<li>You can take two images with different exposures- one of which gets tha shadows about right and one which gets the sky about right and combine them in photoshop or similar.</li>

<li>You might use fill-in flash to light the nearer ( and usually darker) parts of the photograph whilst you expose for the sky.</li>

<li>if you have detain in both sky and canyon, you can use your editing software to lighten shadows and darken highlights.</li>

<li>You can go back when the brightness diffence is less</li>

<li>You can replace the sky in your picture with a correctly exposed sky from another. </li>

<li>You can alter you composition to exclude the sky</li>

</ul>

 

[mark_t5]

<p>for landscapes you can shoot multiples for a hdr composition. that way you get everything.</p>

[colin carron]

<p>Without taking anything away from the excellent answers above I suggest you set your camera to a spot meter setting (if possible) and just meter on the part of the frame you want to be the mid-tone. If you don't have a spot meter set it to centre weighted and do the same. Bits will be dark and bits will be blown out but the main thing is to visualise the whole image before you shoot.</p>

[davepope]

<p>Thanks to all for the suggestions. I had a feeling that the answer would be HDR, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing someting simple. I have been wanting to work with HDR, now I have my first subject. Again thanks.</p>