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Experience with XP-2?


ken_ford1

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Any comments regarding XP-2 in the Minox? I've had good luck with this film in classic 35s with iffy shutter speeds.

 

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In particular, what EI range works well? Will an EI of 50 give good results, or are you limited to the "normal" EI 100 through EI 400 range?

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Ilford XP2 Super is a GREAT film. You can use it anywhere from

50-800 with fantastic results. The best part about it is that you can

shoot at all of these speed on the same roll without any developing

compensation. This means that you can shoot on shot at 800 and the

next at 50 and both prints will come out just fine. I strongly

suggest you stay as low as possible, as this will allow the best

grain, but by all means bump up the speed when you are in a dark

situation.

Good Luck!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ken:

 

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I have a follow-up question. I use XP2 Super often. But I simply set

my ASA to 400 in a camera with a meter, or calculate exposure

roughly, on the basis that this is 400 ASA film. I'm not even sure

what "push processing" is - but I assume that it involves shooting,

say, a 400 ASA film as if it is rated at 1600 ASA and then processing

the film differently. But I think you are saying that in a sense the

XP2 Super film "doesn't care" what the ASA setting is and will give

good results regardless. Is that right? Are you saying that I can

shoot AS IF the film is 50 ASA or 800 ASA, set the dial accordingly,

and then process the film in the normal way? (I've got a roll of XP2

in my Kiev 35A copy of a Minox35. Can I just turn the ASA dial up or

down, shot after shot, depending on conditions, and see what happens?)

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Dan -

 

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I'll contribute an answer anyway - I have been using XP-2 for quite

some time in 35mm.

 

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XP-2 has very broad tolerance to exposure - I have had spectacular

luck in 35mm with EI 100 thru 400, and very good results (thinner

negs) out to EI 1600. My concern with this emulsion in the Minox was

that of enlargment - I've never tried to take my 35mm XP-2 negs beyond

8x10.

 

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The method you describe is fine - that's pretty much what I do. All

should be printable - the negs exposed at a lower EI will be denser

and less grainy, and will have a longer tonal scale. I don't even

bother carrying a meter when shooting XP-2 - if my eye is off a stop

or two, no problem.

 

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I've found it to be the perfect solution for older cameras in need of

shutter work, too!

 

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I'll report back after I get some XP-2 Super back from my IIIs.

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