peter_k4 Posted November 9, 2008 Share Posted November 9, 2008 I've been using my D40 and D50 for a while now. I've started doing some more critical landscape shooting but I'm having trouble getting optimal sharpness at slow shutter speeds. I am suspecting it is caused by mirror slap. it appears, in general, in exposures from 1/2 second to 1/20 depending on the lens. It also is much more prominent when I have the camera in the vertical orientation on my tripod. I can still barely notice it when mounted horizontally but it's not nearly as prominent. so first of all I am trying to determine if it is in fact mirror slap. it only occurs at the long end of my 18-200, and my 80-200 2.8 and only in the shutter ranges mentioned. I'll attach photos. My tripod, while lightweight, is a fairly sturdy Slik 614 carbon fibre. That is besides the point because for the pictures I'm taking I will NOT be lugging around a 5lb tripod all day. Now I come to the solving of the problem. I'm wondering how effective the D80's shutter prefire feature is at attenuating this mirror slap issue compared to the full lockup of the D200. I think I'd like the D200 for a variety of other reasons, but I'd rather spend less now because what I really want sometime in the future is a D700 or D800 or whatever else happens. So this camera would really just be a "hold me over" camera, hence wanting to spend less money. Also the D200 banding issue has me slightly paranoid, perhaps unjustly, since I can't get a new D200 anymore and am worried people selling used are just trying to unload their defective models. (someone, please tell me if this is an outrageously unfounded thing to say) So for you D80 users, have you found the shutter delay to be a useful function in keeping your images sharp?<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_k4 Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 and the 18-200<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_k4 Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 oh... It is possible the second images is slightly affected by wind or something, although it wasn't a windy day, but the first image is taken from indoors and any movement must be coming from the camera itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank uhlig Posted November 9, 2008 Share Posted November 9, 2008 Yes, mirror slap is much more pronounced when the camera hangs sideways from the tripod: compare the distance from the pivot point to where the mirror dissipates its energy and you will see. An L bracket might help a lot, it keeps that mirror barrier over the pivot: less force on the tripod. But the main thing is a better tripod, especially in that 1/2 - 1/30 sec range of shutter speeds. Or higher use ISO = faster shutter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_a2 Posted November 9, 2008 Share Posted November 9, 2008 Peter.... What head are you using on the Slik? One thing you can try is not extending the lowest leg section. Makes a shorter, more sturdy tripod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray House Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 I have found that the D80 Exposure delay works very well, although I have just done a few simple tests to check its effectiveness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray House Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Oops...let me also add that I always use shutter delay in conjunction with a 2 sec. self timer setting as I don't have a remote release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 You need a cable release use the self timer so as not to jar the camera. The release delay helps some available on both models. Do not extend the center column of a tripod. You no longer have a tripod when you do that. Buy a tripod suitably tall. don`t expect a 200 mm lens to stay stable on some flimsey tripod. I bought a CF Gitzo and it satifies the stable and weight requirements. The longer the lens, the more stability you need right up to a surveyer wood type with a camera brace going from leg to camera body. Long lenses need a proper tripod foot and hanging them off a camera tripod screw is a marginal idea.. You are better off using proper hand holding techniques or using a bean bag support. If the exposures are long enough, open the shutter and use a card to time the exposure. There is no perfect, cheap, lightweight, solution to this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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