Jump to content

Do I need a tripod to shoot with the Canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L USM IS?

j_logan

By j_logan
in Canon EOS Mount

 Share

Recommended Posts

j_logan

j_logan

Posted
Posted

Hello All,

 

I'm planning on renting a lens to shoot with this weekend and was thinking about getting the Canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6

L USM IS. I understand that telephoto lenses can be very blurry when shot hand held and I was wondering if I would

need to use a tripod to shoot at 400mm. If so, I doubt I will be able to use one for my intended use.

 

I plan to use it to shoot photos at a college football game this Saturday night. The tickets to the game were given to

me by a friend and there is a good chance that they may be pretty far from the action, or very close. I hoping, that I

could use this lens to get some "decent" play-action shots on the field and the crowd in the stadium.

 

If it matters at all, I'm shooting with 20D body and the game will be a night game; though, the first half will be in the

daylight (4:30 kick-off EST).

 

Any thoughts?

 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mrossi

mrossi

Posted
Posted
In full daylight you'd be better off. At night you're going to need more stability. A monopod would be the least you should use IMO, and you should plan on cranking the ISO to 800 or higher. Bear in mind, the f4.5 is at 100mm, and at 5.6, you're not at the sweet spot of the lens, you need higher f-stop (ie.9 or 11) to get the best sharpness. That said, the IS will help to a degree. I'd still plan on at least a monopod. You can definitely use the lens handheld, but not less than 1/400 shutter generally speaking.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
phule

phule

Posted
Posted

If you're shooting football and you're looking to freeze the motion of the players, then you need fairly fast shutter speeds already. I'd probably use a monopod just for added support so I don't have to carry the lens the entire game.

 

With the falling light and the aperture range of the lens, you might end up with shutter speeds that won't be able to freeze motion, even at ISO 3200. In that case a tripod or monopod won't help, unless you're trying to specifically get shots with motion blur...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
j_logan

j_logan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cool. Thanks; I'll try to get most of my shots during the day. I'll definitly look into one of those retractable mono pods for added support.

 

Another quick question. How close would I have to be to get facial expressions using the 400?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nathan_meador

nathan_meador

Posted
Posted
You'd need to be on the sidelines to get facial expressions of any action on the field. You should contact the school and offer to let them use some of the pics for their yearbook, most schools welcome this and would let you have sideline access. I know this because I got wrangled into doing this for my kids' school. I use a 200mm f2.8 prime, and it is great because of the faster speed, and it removes the need for a monopod.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
j_logan

j_logan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nathan, I'll definitely look into this. Maybe they'll cut me some slack since I'm alumni. I'm not sure how difficult it would be though. It's a pretty big game (ESPN televised) and it's homecoming weekend.

 

But, it's definitely worth a shot, especially if they can get free photos out of the deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
j_logan

j_logan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Got you, I'll just stick with hand held for now. Usually, I can get down to the family section or over the tunnell and take flicks. Security is not that strict about you standing in another section as long as you're not stealing some one's seat.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
joseph_martines

joseph_martines

Posted
Posted

If I may caution you. The 100 - 400 is a tricky lens to use.

 

There are controls for the focus range.

There are controls for the IS for panning.

There is a control to turn the stabilization on and off. and,

there is a control to turn the AF on and off.

 

The trickiest one to get use to is the focus range switch.

 

If decent light and at a fast shutter speed (minimum 400 equal to the 400MM focal length) you can hand hold the lens

and get excellent pictures.

 

It's a good lens but, takes some getting use to and hardly anyone points that out. Use it a day before you use it for your

event.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
geoffs1

geoffs1

Posted
Posted

<p>I almost always hand-hold my 100-400mm. When I'm shooting prop-planes my shutter speeds are typically 1/250 and slower. If you can keep the shutter speed faster than 1/250 and you have decent technique you should be able to get a decent "keeper-ratio". </p>

 

<p>Slower than 1/250, it becomes more dependent on technique, with a steadily declining number of keepers (but still OK at 1/160 and you'll get some at 1/160). Conversely, the faster than 1/250 the more keepers you'll get. I'd suggest shooting in burst mode if you're pushing the limits. There's always a sharpest shot in a burst, and many times one is substantially sharper.</p>

 

<img src="http://moving-target-photos.com/2007GML/medium/IMG_3559-027.jpg" />

Link to comment
Share on other sites
geoffs1

geoffs1

Posted
Posted

BTW, I second Joseph's suggestion to practice. The push-pull zoom does take some getting used to.

 

The focus-limiter is pretty straightforward, if your subjects will always be more than 6.5 meters away (about 20 feet) then set it there. It will speed up the focus substantially (esp. if the camera looses focus and needs to rack oll the out and back). I'm guessing your situation will be exclusively in the fhe far range.

 

I'd start with the mode set to 1 (full IS). If you find you're slewing around to follow the action, you might want to try mode-2, but I've had good luck shooting moving subjects on 1.

 

You may want to try C.Fn.-4 set to 1. That moves the "AF Start" action to the "*" button on the back of the camera. It's particularly helpful if you're using AF-Servo (which may or may not work for you) since you can start the AF and IS a couple of seconds before pressing the shutter release.

 

Also, the IS does use some extra battery power, so you will certainly want to make sure your battery is *fully* charged, and perhaps bring a spare if you have one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
William Michael

William Michael

Posted
Posted

IMO you are potentially making a very large mistake.

 

That lens is way too slow to use at Night Football without TV Tx grade lighting, across the whole Playing Field. . . . even with that light F5.6 is quite slow for night Sports work.

 

On a 20D it will be worse. You do not have ISO6400 capacity. You will be able to pull ISO1600 quite OK, but it is very likely you will need at least F3.5 to get anywhere near 1/320s which is the absolute minimum you will need for a shot head on to a player. even then you will likely need the `H` selection.

 

For Transverse movement, you will need a minimum of 1/400s most likely 1/500s.

 

It is not camera shake or a tripod you need to worry about . . . it is how much light you will have . . . even at a late afternoon start, the first half will be questionable, in this regard, at sunset the EV drops dramatically, and quickly, behind stadium seats . . .

 

A 200F2.8 or 135F2 and really smart placement of yourself (if possible), and cropping later might be a wiser move.

 

Better to crop up a frozen player taken with a shorter fast lens than have a nice full frame of blur, IMO.

 

Have a look at the sports forum . . . this is one of many tales to tell:

 

http://www.photo.net/sports-photography-forum/00R5gd

 

WW

Link to comment
Share on other sites
richard_wang10

richard_wang10

Posted
Posted

Why do you need a tripod for a 100-400?

<p>

If you're renting forget all those other lenses.

<p>

Rent a real football lens ie. 400/2.8 or the 600/4.

<p>

And use a monopod.

<p>

But remember you can handhold anything with the right technique.

<p>

Here's a shot using a handheld 600 f/4 with a 1.4xTC.

<p>

No problem

<p>

http://www.sfphotojournal.net/photos/392896567_Gc2jx-XL-3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bangengeman

bangengeman

Posted
Posted

FWIW, I agree with everyone with getting a monopod. If you can't get/bring one, prepare to brace yourself on a friend or the seat in front of you -- a lot. Also, based on experience on shooting from the beachers, 400mm on a crop body is not enough to get facial expressions on the field, but you can get really good action shots, and if you're near the benches you might get a few good "QB throwing around that looks like an in-game throw" shot.

 

You have to crank up the ISO (at least 1600), on your 100-400 though, since 1/250 is *really* pushing it, but if you pan really nice on running plays, you can get away with occasional 1/250s (at least 1/500). FWIW, get your safety shots early and often (QB throw, line of scrimmage, tackles, CHEERLEADERS), and hope you get done by the 1st quarter, then just keep ready for the longer passes or the near end-zone stuff so you can enjoy the game too. Remember to have fun at the game! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ecnhoffer

ecnhoffer

Posted
Posted

I would have to agree with most of the others. The lens is too slow for dim lighting and stop action. I shoot pro football

from the stands in-doors and shutter speeds are typically 1/250 to 1/400 at f2.8 and ISO 400 to 800 with my D80 and 80-

200 mm. My experience with soccer was to shoot before the sun went down!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...