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Isn't Manual mode just too slow and fiddly at a wedding?


john_meyer14

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I love manual mode based on a light meter measure in shade and direct. Just take some quick measures ahead of time and recheck between and also use your histogram now and then as a quick check on the light within the frame. I shoot with a D300 & D200. The camera meters are sometimes close to correct exposure reading or way off. In manual you can adjust in about three seconds. When you nail exposure the extra flick or two of a thumb and finger is worth it. Just think ahead - you know where the action is going to be so dial it in for what you want - and have a goal of perfect exposure.
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Hi C Jo Gough ...

 

"... the unretouched image ..." ??? Wasn't what we did in the darkroom (wet) "retouching" whether it be the negative

and more likely and often the print? You know, the first print kinda needs a bit more magenta, and we do another

print ... hmmmm well, this one's a bit on the darkside, let's lighten it up a bit and maybe not so much magenta this

time, just a touch. A few images later, it's "ahhhhh yesssss" and we have our "keeper".

 

Or if we didn't do our own darkroom work, we let the labs do it for us.

 

Today, it's Photoshop, Lightroom 2, and sooooooo many others. It's my belief that only a trickle of images went

unretouched prior to digital.

 

Am I off track here ?

 

Ray

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I did very little colour work in the darkroom ::::::: For the color labs, we had a densitometer reading ( VPS was 81 min) calibrated to our meter and could call the lab and they would let you know where you stood in exposure > for the job in`house. <p>

 

--but > with B&W --I was into perfecting the perfect neg ---- (like a zone meter and each neg/roll had to be processed just for that contrast/exposure) so there would be minuet manipulations in the enlarger/ tray. I would have a water tray between the developer and stop bath :: if I needed to stop a process. I would read the negative and adjust by a selection of graded paper and I mixed my own developer for the negs in hand. It was an easy system. Yes, there was a "dry-down" time for your paper base test strip > to achieve the "keeper" but, eventually there were microwaves & Ansel taught us to use it correctly >> to save us the hours of drying time. Quality silver paper was expensive for us starving artist ....you wore your "badge" when you accomplished the final print in 2 sheets. <p>

 

So, yes there are great digital processors today ~! Just think some : should not place the "pre process" so non-nonchalantly in the background of their art >> But then again :: my generation originates in the slow / fiddly method.

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Raymond Valois , Oct 12, 2008; 01:35 p.m......Hi C Jo Gough ...

"... the unretouched image ..." ??? Wasn't what we did in the darkroom (wet) "retouching" whether it be the negative

and more likely and often the print? Am I off track here ? ...Ray.....

 

Ray, tweaking the photo to correct for what the chemicals, glass, or ccd get cockeyed is not retouching. Retouching

is when 'photographers' smooth grandma's skin to look like neoprene, that textureless, lifeless look that seems to be

in vogue these days, or when they 'color correct' that lawn to be some hideous shade of Kelly green, 'spot' remove

shadows that shouldn't be there in the first place, photos that are so "sharpened" that they hurt the retinas, etc.

Those photos look so phoney I'm suprised they get into publication, but then again "Velvet paintings" amazed me

also. Look at some photos that were taken by shooters who don't do retouching, and see the difference. They have

life, honesty and a genuineness that's refreshing to see these days. Retouching is so endemic that there is an entire

indusrty that does nothing but retouching, or more accurately, correcting bad photos.

 

Bill P.

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Tom Mickan , Oct 13, 2008; 08:59 a.m.....Bill, where did dodging, burning, unsharp masking, filters (on camera or in

the dark room), or cross processing fit into the whole equation back in the days?.....

 

Hi Tom, Great question, and here's my 'take'. Things like filters on the optics, either on the camera or in the

darkroom, if used to compensate for the color temp. of the film, is not retouching. Neither is Black and White

photography. Sharpening to correct for digital haze, (an inherent shortcoming of the medium) is not retouching, in my

estimation. When USM is used to make a photo blisteringly sharp, (and it looks silly), that's retouching.

Anything that is done in 'post' or the darkroom, to make up for an incorrectly set up photo is 'retouching'. Dodging

and burning tells me you didn't get the lighting set up correctly. Cross processing tells me you want a nifty effect. In

motion picture, which is my primary discipline in the photographic arts, if you get the setup wrong, you get bad

photographs twenty four times a second!

It's easier for me to just get the setup right and enjoy shooting, not to mention the pride involved.

 

Bill P.

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Hi Bill P ...

 

Ok, gotcha. I think it's semantics: my definition of what we did in the darkroom is "retouching".

 

What you're describing is really special effects for the sake of special effects. And we've all seen movies of the

same ilk ... very tiresome and one loses interest after a few minutes.

 

Ray

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Hi Tom, Yes, some of it is semantics, and much of it is correcting for bad shooting. Photoshop has become a huge success out of allowing 'photographers' to correct all sorts of mistakes that shouldn't have occured in the first place. Special effects have their place, in movies like "Midnight Cowboy", but this new generation of computer generated stuff puts me to sleep. I'll take "Detour" any day !

 

Bill P.

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Tom Mickan ::

" where did dodging, burning, unsharp masking, filters (on camera or in the dark room), or cross processing fit into the whole equation back in the days?"

 

In the portrait / wedding department >

<p> Sharpness --- was maintained with top quality optics & many were shooting with 120 film & tripods. You knew how to move your subjects to a "edge"' light ...the sharpest f-stop of your fixed lens (Zeiss about f 8.5 )....cable release and a tripod..... <p>

 

Dodge/Burn --with a hand meter and placing your subjects in the right light, manual flash......was rarely necessary.

 

Filters ---Labs usually corrected the negatives >> <p> BIT if transparencies ~~~ I had to carry a color temperature meter, a box of CC filters, Polaroid :: really time consuming ! === were now you just AWB . If one was to shoot an interior portfolio for a designer/architect, maybe 3 rooms > you could estimate a minimum 5 hours, with assistants, and a van full of gear ...... less than an hour commercial job today.

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I just simple wait until the subjects are all in the same light >> not very spontaneous ... but, since there are

really about 4 exposure combination's I use ---there is not too much fiddling. Also my attendance is way under

75, these days > so easy to contain. Guests are going to enjoy a "pseudo-pj" ~~ much more flattering >> they

have a few seconds to ready themselves and I > to compose/expose. All our shots are > "flat plane" (

since available light is usually 15th @ 5.0 ISO 400 ) you know your dof will be shallow but, sharp. Not too

lending towards the new journalistic style --but each shot counts > way less editing.<div>00R9yf-78579584.jpg.4587e201dd38cdac83bcc3a32db4ea9a.jpg</div>

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"Controlled Photojournalism" C Jo?

 

Maybe it's more like "Casual Formals." LOL.

 

Ironically, we used "P" for a group of shots this past weekend because the ceremony was some of the worst backlighting ever. My second

shooter was pretty freaked by how bad it was. Having to change angles all over the place would have required re-metering every time if we

had used manual.

 

The cameras handled it quite well, including fill with little to no compensation. "P" on some of these newer cameras is pretty amazing and

allows you to pay attention to what's happening in front of the camera rather then in the camera.

 

Not avocating it for those who are just learning how to meter properly because it can become a crutch rather than a tool. But it IS there to

use, and it is employing some pretty sophisticated technology.<div>00RAB4-78691584.jpg.8d3a4a1a7517dfae4e932adf55de4b54.jpg</div>

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I love backlighting too. That's the best kind of backlighting there, because you can blow the sun highlights on the subjects pretty wildly and still be good because the sun does not touch any highly important areas. The only part that is mildly questionable is the bride's chest. How did it do with shots where more than a sliver of the faces were lit by bright sun? Just curious, because I know you use a D3, and want to know how Program on a D3 (the 'newer' cameras you mention) is different from the 'older' cameras. I think my older Canon 5D would have done well with this shot (in Program), and it uses a pretty simple (old) logic.
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Marc

Dont tell me you have switched from Nikon to Canon and back to Nikon again? I was actually thinking recently of selling

up my gear and going Canon....always a step behind :)

 

I force myself to shoot on Manual most of the time. My last couple of weddings have been held indoors with similiar

conditions - glass windows in full sun behind couple, dark room looking the other way which proved very challenging. All

in all I missed the occasional shot due having to change exposure. It was enough to make me think I should try one of

the automated modes. The danger with Aperture Priority for me is that I will go over the max sync speed if I am not

careful resulting in blown shots. I have never really tried "P" mode but will do some testing with it.

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"How did it do with shots where more than a sliver of the faces were lit by bright sun? Just curious, because I know you use a D3, and

want to know how Program on a D3

is different."

 

It did fine Nadine. I personally consider the 5D a "newer camera" as far as "Program" is concerned. I mean "older" as in some of the first

cameras with P metering ....

which is just about the last time I used "P" to shoot anything : -)

 

BTW, I doubt metering in manual would have changed the "mildly questionable light" on the Bride's chest ... it's the way the light was, and

the image has tone there.

 

Here's less than a "sliver" shot on P ... I didn't shoot many of them facing directly into the low direct sun because all they did was squint.

 

Yes Jason, back to Nikon ... again ...

 

C Jo ... TTL.<div>00RAd4-78895584.jpg.4d349f56991e8af559ffa4e82622b793.jpg</div>

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Thanks for the reply, Marc. I agree--manual metering would have done nothing here for the chest overexposure because I would have made the same decision Program did--favor the shadow mid tones at the expense of the sun highlights (chest and all), helping the shadows with subdued fill flash. I wouldn't have metered at all actually. I would have used manual mode, ISO 100, 1/200th, f5.6 (if the sun was the 'normal' bright sun and not less bright), chimped, and gone from there, aiming for pleasing rendition of the shaded side. Flash cut a bit--it would differ depending upon whether I was using my 580EX or Metz 54MZ4-i. Was the flash in high speed sync?
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MARC --were you fairly close or does that new Nikon have a great GN ? --really good punch for "straight" TTL ...Looks like a ISO 100 250--10.0 with a Quantum or Metz situation ( to keep the highlights in check) unless you are closer than I think.
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C Jo, yes @ 131' Guide No#, the SB900 has just a little more punch than the previous SB800. Perhaps more importantly, it has a reflector zoom range for 24 to 200mm

lenses compared to the SB800 @ 24-105mm. In the shot above I was using a 100/2.8 Macro with a converter to get 140mm (exif info says its 150mm?)

 

I removed the stock diffuser on the SB900, and shot the flash straight letting the Nikon D3 Program mode command the iTTL flash for "Balanced Fill Flash." (When

using a longer lens from a distance, I usually shoot the flash straight on.)

 

Exif info from the first shot above: D3, ISO 400, Normal Program, Pattern Metering, 1/320th shutter, 150mm @ f/11.

 

Again, not avocating using Program in place of understanding lighting and how to measure it. However, in some really difficult lighting situations I'm finding that it can be

a helpful tool. I should note that my assistant Noel did just as well with her Canon EOS 30D and 380EX-II and 100/2.8 macro using Program. In reviewing the whole days

shoot, the Nikon flash system tended to be more consistant ... but I already knew that from my own experiences.

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