Recommendations for a Panoramic Head

[spud]

Hey folks

 

I have a Nikon D2X and have been thinking of dabbling in trying panoramic shots and stitching. I'm a film guy by

nature, so this is a departure from what I'm used to, so I need your guidance.

 

Can you recommend a good head for this application? Ideally, a head that can also support a Mamiya RZ67 body as

well.

 

Also, do you have any recommendations for stitching software and/or good books/websites on how to take

Panoramic images and using the head?

 

Thanks folks

[sattler123]

Really Right Stuff has excellent gear, incl. Panorama Heads

 

http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/index.html

 

I am not sure though that you will find a head that can/will handle both your cameras - the RZ67 is a lot heavier than your D2X. I'd give these guys a call and ask them directly if I were you.

 

I use Panorama Factory to stitch Panos - it does everything and more that I could ever want from a Pano program.

[howard_m]

you really don't need a special pano head to get started.

 

get a good ballhead and a leveling base and you're done. you dont need a focusing rail (for the nodal point) unless you have objects in the pano that are quite close to the camera and will be in/near a stitch seam either.

[ellis_vener_photography]

I also use the Really Right Stuff PCL-1 clamp on top of an Arca-Swiss B1 Monoball and an Arca-Swiss B2 Monoball , along with the 7" RRS nodal slide. The cameras I generally use are either a Nikon D3 or Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II and the lenses I usually use are the 24-70mm f/2.8G Nikkor on the D3 and the EF 17-40mm f/4L on the Canon .

 

i A Bogen / Manfrotto 405 or 410 geared head also works very well but the Arca-Swiss, and big Kirk, RRS, Linhof, Foba bal heads work well toois I disagree with Howard about not needing a nodal slide. It really helps to turn the camera on it's slide to get the highest resolution so an "L" QR bracket is a good idea. If you don't want the Really Right Stuff or Kirk dedicated bracket Novoflex makes a good one and some people like Bjorn Rorslett make their own.

 

Unless you are working with long lenses there are always foreground to background parallax relationships that need to be dealt wit hand rotating around the lens nodal point just makes for fewer headaches. I also do not use a leveling base under my head. Obviously there are different ways to skin this particular cat!

 

I was using the Photomerge function in Photoshop CS3 until about a month ago when at the suggestion of a friend I started working with PTGui 8.x.x.

 

 

 

When I started doing these things seriously I used the 50% over lap rule. These days I am using closer to a 70% to 80% over lap rule and I get fewer errors and more control points. I now automatically discard the worst control points.

[howard_m]

I do agree w/ Elllis on the L bracket and putting the camera on it's side w/ high % of overlap.

 

In fact, I do have the RRS 192 rail but find that often, there isn't enough need for it but his point is taken.

 

I had the PCL clamp but traded it in for a leveling base (Acratech Ultimate) which ultimately has been more useful to me in both

pano and regular use

[Ed_Ingold]

A panning clamp like Ellis uses is a convenient way to level the camera with the ball head itself. The disadvantage is that the camera is dead level, placing the horizon in the center of the image. If you use a leveling platform under the head, the camera can be tilted up or down for better placement. You need to level the camera separately to keep the horizon even, using a bubble level in the shoe.

 

There are many good panorama programs. I use PTGui ($120), which hands multi-row arrays and seems to solve difficult stitching and blending solutions (e.g., inside auditoriums) without creating odd distortions. Tilting the camera as cited above will cause convergence, which PTGui automatically corrects. You can handle simple situations with the Merge function in Photoshop CS3.

[bennett_richards]

I use a RRS pano Clamp with a heavy DSLR, a heavy MF and a Canon G9. Use RRS L brackets. Love the stuff. All sits on either a Leitz ball head for light work or an ArcaSwiss B1. All this sits on a Gitzo 3540LS Carbon 6X.

 

Can't say enough about the RRS pano Clamp. It's perfection and it's built like a Frickin TANK.

[ellis_vener_photography]

"If you use a leveling platform under the head, the camera can be tilted up or down for better placement. "

 

Ah that makes sense, thanks Edward . For architectural work, if you need to correct key-stone type distortion, after the composite has been created?

 

Which do you think would be a better investment: RRS multi-row pieces or leveling head?

[spud]

I currently have an Arca Swiss B1. So this being said, RRS has a Pano Elements Package that would be good for a starter system, to get my feet wet. It consists of a PCL-1, and a MPR-CL II rail. I would only be able to do single rows for now, but I could probably live with that. Now, since I have the B1 head, am I correct in assuming that I would need a PCL-DVTL accessory to mount it easily to the B1?

[howard_m]

Yes, the DVTL is essentially required.

[joseph_wisniewski]

I started out with the "good pan head" technique. Quickly found that only the most flat and lifeless panoramas didn't have something so near the camera that they made stitching a problem. (that's based on what I shoot, your own experiences may be different).

 

Next, I improvised aluminum brackets so that I would be vertical and have the "entrance pupil" (what Howard and Ellis mistakenly refer to as the "nodal point") over the center of rotation. I used to use my "Bogfrotto" (Bogen/Manfrotto) 3275 (410) gear head for the panning action. It uses the Bogen "RC4" style release plates (an RC4 clamp is cast into the head). I put an RC4 plate on the bottom of the bracket, and an RC4 clamp on the upright to attach a camera with an RC4 plate. This did pretty well for a while. It required a two screw holes in the bracket for every lens I used with it, to allow the 3270 (354) RC4 plate to be moved to the proper entrance pupil location. (Two screws to prevent rotation).

 

Next, I switched to a Bogfrotto 3418 (302 PLUS) VR setup, which had a leveling base, a neat pan mechanism that lets you select common pan increments line 8, 12, 15, 20 degrees, two geared focusing rails bolted together and to a vertical bracket to accurately position the entrance pupil. The 302 is very strong, and can handle something like your RZ, in addition to a D2X (my own primary "axe"). The 302 is a pain to store and carry. The vertical bracket has an old Bogen "hex plate" quick release, and you can detach it from the rails, but the rails are bolted together and don't separate. The clamp for the hex plate is a huge cast cup-like contraption that isn't very strong, despite the size and weight.

 

(The new model that replaced the 302 stores better, but still not good enough).

 

Eventually, I got a very nice macro focusing rail, a Novoflex castle L, and the final form of the VR head "gelled" in my mind. To me, an "L" bracket has no place in a panoramic setup because, as Edward points out, it forces your horizon through the center of the image (dang, I'm agreeing with Edward again). And the hel-L bracket doesn't permit multirow panoramas. I wanted convenient multirow, sturdiness, and compact storage.

 

The end result...

 

1) The leveling base went away. My current tripods both have good leg locks, I can level one in about 30 seconds by tweaking the legs.

 

2) The bogfrotto rotating mechanism got a Markins Arca clamp placed on top. (it isn't always used, because the Acratech "Ultimate" ballhead makes an OK rotator).

 

3) The bogfrotto geared macro sliders that were bolted together got separated. One got assigned to other duties and isn't participating in this discussion. The one that stayed with the pan setup got a Markins Arca plate bolted to the bottom, with two screws so that it can't rotate. It has a Bogfrotto RC4 clamp (the newer 394 with bubble levels) attached to the top, where the hex clamp used to go.

 

4) The vertical bracket underwent severe modification. It's hex plate was removed, an aluminum plate milled and drilled to provide a transition from the base of the bracket to a Bogen RC4 plate. All the anti-twist hardware and camera securing knob was removed, and a threaded shaft knob inserted to allow a Markins Arca clamp to attach to the bracket. That's hard to describe, I'll try to go shoot it and attach a picture.

 

5) The clamp on the arm grabs the Novoflex Castle-L, which comes with its entire baseplate milled in an Arca tongue. The Castle-L has another Markins Arca clamp in the proper (not Really Rong Stuff) orientation. It provides the most important of the entrance pupil adjustments, down the lens's axis.

 

The end result, it tilts up and down with aplomb, can hold 8 pounds of gear (D3, flash, and 70-200 f2.8), serves for macro, stereo, and panoramic use (rearrange the pieces like photographic lego)...

[joseph_wisniewski]

The whole thing works like this...<div></div>

[joseph_wisniewski]

Here's how we get the entrance pupil over the axis of rotation using the Novoflex rail. This works even when we're tilted up or down.<div></div>

[joseph_wisniewski]

For stereo shots, using it as a slide bar, we leave off the Novoflex.<div></div>

[joseph_wisniewski]

"Wimberly Junior", another alternative configuration. Yes, that's a 300mm f2.8. I guess that settles the issue of whether this would hold a 6x7.

 

;)<div></div>

[joseph_wisniewski]

Inverted, for macro use this can move left and right with geared precision on the Bogfrotto slider for stereo macro, and forward and back on the Novoflex both for focusing and for focus stacking with CombineZ or Helicon Focus. The Bogfrotto rotator has been replaced with a good old Acratech ball head.<div></div>

[joseph_wisniewski]

The vertical bracket is the biggest problem in this generation. Salvaging a Bogfrotto right angle bracket isn't the right thing to do. The hole is too low, so the knob on the Arca plate always runs into the bracket. And I can'd move the hole because of the design of the casting. The foot that attaches it to a Bogen RC4 plate is longer than it needs to be, which makes stowing it a bit awkward (although all three pieces do still manage to go into a double width lens compartment in the Lowepro back pack.

 

The next project is to make a new vertical bracket the same height, but the hole about 2 inches (5cm) higher, and a 2 inch foot with an integrated Arca dovetail, instead of a nearly 4 inch foot bolted to a Bogen RC4.<div></div>

[garydem]

2 items-

-you only need the pano head for 2 situations. one is outside or any other in which the scene has close items in the

foreground. those close items will show parallax if included in the pano. the other situations are indoor panos. inside

a room or building the foreground will be close enough to cause parallax problems. outdoor landscape scenes

without close items, you do not need a pano head. a regular tripod will do fine.

-the pano head that i use is the panosaurus. it is cheap, $80, and it works. it may not impress any by standers, but i

am not trying to impress them; i am trying to take panoramas. the neaviest lens i have used on it is a 12-24zoom

using the 12mm setting. results were very good, it was solid.

try-

http://gregwired.com/pano/pano.htm

[studor13]

Some great advices above, but if you want to do it the cheap way, then just do it on any decent tripod and head.

 

I've had no problems up to 7 images in the portrait position swinging horizontally.

 

This morning I made the shot below where it was also in the portrait position but the three images were stacked going up vertically.

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7974533

 

The "secret" is not to get too much foreground otherwise you will have a problem associated with parallax.

 

CS3's Photomerge does the job for me although I hear that Panorama Factory is one of the best.

[arthuryeo]

Is there a system that can get away with parallax errors which will allow you to use a super wide lens and include stuffs in the foreground that are less than 5 ft away?

[joseph_wisniewski]

Arthur, there are a dozen "systems" that can do that. A big part of it depends on what camera you're using.

 

The monster that I built can handles a medium format rig, or the heaviest 35mm gear. It would also cost a good $500-600 to duplicate.

 

There are brackets available for fairly low cost, off the shelf.

 

$80 gets you the plastic Panosaurus that Greg mentioned can, if you work carefully, handle a very light 35mm SLR or DSLR, but my gear or Spud's gear will kill it.

 

http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm

 

$200 will get you a nicely machined aluminum "Nodal Ninja" that will handle even a D2X or D3, but you don't want to try it with something like a 3 pound lens. And no medium format gear, which is why I didn't mention it in response to spuds original question. It stores compactly,

 

http://www.nodalninja.com/

 

$550 and you're dealing with a Bogefrotto 303 SP, which isn't as versatile as mine, but you just take it out of the box, set it up, and you're shooting in very short order...

 

And beyond that, there's Kaidan, Peace River, etc...

 

If you like to build stuff, you can get going surprisingly cheap.

 

Want to shoot hand held? A "Philopod" is just a plumb bob, a bit of string, and a bubble level, and it will let you "walk" a camera around the entrance pupil, for about $10...

 

http://www.philohome.com/tripod/shooting.htm

 

And there are plans galore on the web, just google "panorama head plans" or "build panorama head".

 

http://www.scotthendershot.com/Panohead/UniversalPanoHead.htm

[spud]

Thanks a ton Joseph for posting the various photos of your setup.

[beartooth1]

Good info here... I've been doing it the hard way with a Manfrotto tripod and ball head.. lots of pics and patience...

 

I've been stitching with CS3 or by hand

 

I just got the gigapan set up last week and have been playing with it a bit... I have a friend who is a fabricator and he's gonna make me a new bracket that will support my D50 or D300. Should be interesting.

[bryceworld]

Hey all, this is a great thread.. but I need to confirm a couple of things as I'm just about to take this step also..

 

So if a get a leveling head, I can 'shift' the lens of the camera(?) thus achieving more foreground/sky as I wish?

 

OR

 

Is the best/cheaper/common way to shoot multi row's and crop?

 

I just use a ball head currently so i'll have to take this off and mount the leveling head when shooting this style yes?

 

Thanks

[roypanos]

Hi there

 

I skimmed through this thread so apologies if I'm duplicating or missing anything.

 

I have been doing panoramas for less than two years, and only "trying hard" in the last year, so I'm no expert. I

have been concentrating on VR sphericals (in HDR), so that's quite a demanding requirement for the panhead and

software. No one seems to have mentioned the Nodal Ninja range so I will. I have an NN3. I'm using a D200/10.5 FE

combination for the sphericals. If the camera/lens is set correctly on the two rails, parallax isn't such a

problem, athough getting this sorted out took me while. Actually it was understanding the issue that took me

most of the time.The NN3 is suited to lightish camera/lens combinations.

The D200 is really a bit too heavy, even with this tiny lens, so there's a bit of roll inward.

 

This isn't a problem when using stitching software like PTGui - which I like - or PTAssembler, which I like less

and isn't suitable for spherical panos anyway, as you can compensate for errors in any axis quite easily. The

original NN3 had a horrible pan axis tensioning mechanism; the newer version is much, much better - mine was

replaced FOC when I moaned about it.

 

There is an NN5 model which is quite a bit beefier but they are all pretty light and disassemble into components

which easily fit into most camera bags, and not expensive - by the standard of photographic accessories! I was a

bit rude about the product on another forum, as I'd been mislead about the capacity of the NN3 (or thought I had)

so here's a link to their site:

 

http://www.nodalninja.com/

 

I have nothing to compare it with but you can definitely make spherical panos with it! It has changeable detents

in the pan axis which makes for easier shot selection, although they aren't really intended for fully templated

pano creation.

In summary: serviceable, light, inexpensive, well made, good support (they offered to refund when I complained).

It works.

 

There is also a simple and serviceable inexpensive device called the "Panosaurus" which may do the trick, but it

isn't suitable for sphericals. Whew, unintentional alliteration!

 

Someone mentioned levelling plates. I bought one too (Manfrotto). It weighs a great deal and is completely

unecessary; you can level up the stitched pano very easily and levelling on the legs is simple and quick. It also

gets in the way of the nadir shots when doing sphericals. Don't bother with one.

 

Roy<div></div>