Jump to content

Make it brighter without changing the color


Recommended Posts

Hi photo.net,

 

The other day, after setting my white and black points on an image, and bringing the whites to 245 I didn't like what it was doing to color of my

subject. It was making it look way too washed out. So I restricted curves in such a way so that only the top 1/3 was deviating from the line. It

kept my whites at 245 and improved the color situation somewhat but not entirely. So then I added a hue saturation layer and got it pretty close

but not exact. You see I wanted the color I saw in the RAW file before setting those white/black points. My question is, how do get the shot

ready to print and keep the color true to the original RAW file? Is it possible?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you want your raw file color..why dont you do it in your raw development software?

 

the other thing is to set your bw point using a level, then in need (dont know why someone would like to do that..but to each there own reason) enter 245 in the box where 255 is writen..245 is a bit low by the way, 250 is normally OK..

 

then if you want, by using a curve to adjust the contrast you should get everything under control; bw point and contrast.

the color should keep there appearance.

 

Maybe is the way you set your bw point that are problematic..try my method on your original and see if that make a difference : )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also remember setting white and black points depending on where in the image you took the sample will neutralize an image

where it shouldn't be. Not all of nature is R=G=B. In levels you can go into options and control the hues of your B&W sampling

points in order to retain the hue and vibrancy of your image while at the same time setting clipping parameters.

 

This Bruce Frasier article shows how to do this:

 

http://www.creativepro.com/article/out-of-gamut-don-t-underestimate-photoshop-s-auto-color

 

Also a luminosity layer will suck the life out of a vibrant image because it tends to desaturate by applying a type of neutral

density filter=(Black ink) to the overall look of the image.

 

In my painting classes of long ago we were required to create a full color image with three tubes of paint that resembled royal

blue or cobalt blue, intense fucsia magenta and brilliant cadmium yellow. We were not allowed to use black to create our

densities because it would turn the colors to mud and flatten the overall appearance in shadows and midtones. It made for

some colorful, vibrant and rich looking renderings.

 

This is pretty much what the luminosity layer does to scenes with certain color palettes that are affected by this neutralizing

effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely Tim.

 

i use mainly the luminosity blending mode for sharpen, or to remove color cast when i add some density to cloud that should be white; not majenta or blueish...other than that, i dont use it too much as , like you say, it gave the image a *flat* look.

 

I also use it (just remember) when i add some people on a shot after extract it them from another image. To make a reaaalllly long story short, when i add this new character to a new image as a photo montage, to keep all the fine hairs and other small details, i normally past again the same person under the first one, and change it blending mode to luminosity..it get kind of transparent and strangly it help preserving details...

 

not sure if anyone follow me here : ) but let say it give good result! LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...