How important is gerared focusing?

[curtis_nelson]

Hi,

 

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I'm thinking about making the leap to LF, and I was wondering, how important is geared focusing? Most lower-end used monorails only have friction focusing, and to me, having never used LF equipment, it just doesn't seem like it would be too easy or accurate. Am I wrong? Should I look for something with geared focusing?

 

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Thanks

[dave_karp]

Curtis,

 

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I have a Calumet 45NX. All movements on that camera are friction. It

has never been a problem for me. The focusing is smooth and easy. All

you have to do is turn the focusing knob. If you want to make very

small adjustments, just keep the focusing lock a little tight, so

that it slightly restricts movement. In some cases, when you want to

make a gross adjustment of one of the standards, friction movements

make it quick and easy to adjust. Just loosen the lock and move it.

You don't have to turn the knob to make the standard move.

 

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My experience is that the friction focusing on my camera is quick,

easy, and very accurate. I think that you should try the cameras that

you are considering out, if possible, and see what you think.

[mat_nikon]

I took the photo below using the Bender 4x5 kit. I think its pretty

sharp. Focusing was by sliding a block of wood on a square aluminum

hollow tube (No gears). What is probably more important is to use a

tripod, cable release, AND loupe. Also stop down as much as you can.

 

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http://www.photo.net/photo/624488&size=lg

[tony novak-clifford]

For focusing only, geared focus is not really needed, but it does make

things a bit easier and faster.

 

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Geared swings and tilts on the otherhand, especialy for architectural

and interiors work I find almost essential.

[curtis_nelson]

I guess I'm showing my ignorance by my original question. I assumed

that there were only two types of focusing methods for LF - geared

and friction. By friction, I assumed (again) that it simply meant

loosening a knob and manually sliding the standard forward or back

(ala Bender). Now it seems like friction focusing is actually is

performed by turning a know, which results in the standard moving?

Is that correct?

 

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Thanks

[dave_karp]

Curtis,

 

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That is how my 45NX works. The focusing is by turning a knob. Simpler

cameras like the Bender may work differently.

 

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I also disagree with the idea that geared tilts, swings, or shifts

are required for architectural photography. Although convenient in

some respects, they are not required. Calibrated swings and tilts are

also helpful, but not essential.

 

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Lenses are the most important thing. More advanced cameras can be

more convenient in some respects, but the images taken with a stable

low end monorail and a high quality lens look just the same as the

ones taken with a high end Arca-Swiss or Sinar.

[mat_nikon]

Maybe you should look at the Arca Swiss Discovery. It has a slider on

the front and gears on the rear standard if I'm not mistaken. Thats

kind of like having both focusing mechanism.

 

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I've not seen the Discovery in these parts but I've played with the

Monolith. After playing with the geared rise, tilts and focus, I'm

convinced that Arca has some kind of nicotine coating applied to

knobs. My cravings for their cameras lasted for weeks.

[per_volquartz1]

matnikon!

 

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Try a Sinar P2 some time!

 

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The knobs on this camera are coated with stronger stuff than

nicotene...the feeling lasts for years!!!

[eugene_singer]

Curtis, I think that you have confused geared focusing with geared

rise, fall, shift, and tilt capability. A focusing knob is absolutely

essential for FINE focusing. Whether it works by friction, or gears

is up to the camera designer. Geared movements on the front and rear

standards are nice to have, but they are optional. I don't know of a

camera that uses a sliding arrangement for FINE focusing.

[mat_nikon]

One thing you should note with geared focusing is how the gear

mechanism is done the camera. I think most of the cameras have a rack

and pinion system.

 

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Depending on how fine the gears are manufactured, you may find that

the focusing may "jump" when the gear teeth do not fall into the

ridges of the rack. Furthermore, you may also notice a lag when you

turn the knob if there is a minute gap in the gears. The best way to

know is to try out the cameras. I handled the Arca-Swiss Monolith and

it felt creamy smooth.

 

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All this is during very fine focusing of course. My experence with

the Bender is that it is extremely easy to make minute adjustments in

the rear/front standard using your fingers because the tube and my

monorail riders are smooth. The harder part is to know when the focus

is snap on. More so at temperatures of 80F under the dark cloth.

There are so many other variables for "sharpidity" such as film

flatness, camera shake, ground glass distance to film, my so so

optician etc. I dont take precision pics so I can live with the

Bender friction focusing and I dont think friction focusing is

difficult at all. (Bender has no focusing knobs. You use you fingers

to nudge the standards.)

[david_f._stein]

One other factor you notice in vintage cameras. After time, certain

focus ranges/points (the ones commonly used) tend to become loose or

bumpy because of wear. I expect the best modern cameras (Sinar, Arca,

etc.) have tracks and gears that wear only slightly with time and,

hopefully, are replaceable. With our vintage cameras, we do

"transplants" from donor materials. I can only say that something as

ancient as a 4x5 Korona view camera can have excellent front and rear

focus, allowing discrete movements and precise-to my eye-focusing.

GO

[matthew_runde]

Curtis,

 

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For my own work, I find geared focusing helpful. I could probably

live without it, though.

 

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I'm borrowing a top-of-the-line Linhof Kardan Bi monorail, which has

geared fine-focus that is silky smooth. I like having this because I

think that it makes life easier, although I've never used friction

focus. After using the geared focus I decided that any camera I

bought in the future would need to have it.

 

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I think that if your budget allows, you would be happy with geared

focus, but if the budget is tight I wouldn't worry about using

friction focus.

[gary_frost1]

Geared or friction doesn't matter as long as you have a knob that is

smooth and precise. My cameras have geared, but I have a Durst 138

enlarger that has both focus and head adjustments using friction.

They are smooth and precise. I don't think anyone will suspect Durst

was compromising quality in this design.

[dick roadnight cotswolds]

Yes Per, the Sinar p(2)s are a delight to use, with geared

everything. I also have a Manfrotto tripod with geared everything...

but £4,500 for the bellow unit is a great deal of money.

[per_volquartz1]

Dick.

 

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Bought all my Sinar stuff on ebay. I will never purchase new camera

gear retail again. If you are careful and know what you are after you

can get a fantastic system for half (or less) of retail.