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POLL: (yes/no) Do you use a flash bracket and why?


rick_shanahan

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Nope. Got one, never use it. Since learning how to use a better bounce card, I find that simpler is better. There are situations where I can see using it, like at an outdoor reception where the bounce card and Stofen fail. But even then, light is usually so good that redeye is uncommon with standard flash anyway.

 

Dave

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Yes & No.

 

When I bought my EOS 1, I also bought the 430EZ flash to go along with it. How often have I used the 430EZ in the past 18 years?

Maybe 20 to 30 rolls of film.

 

When I owned my 20D, I did find that I did use it's built in flash quite often.

 

Now that I have my 5D, in place of the 20D, I'm not in a huge hurry to the buy the 580EX II.

 

Reason, same as you, to cumbersome and heavy. But for some strange reason, I don't want to purchase a smaller flash to use the 5D.

 

If I'm going to need a flash, I'll just pull out my EOS 1 and use the 430EZ.

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A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Here is an example of a flip bracket used for a specific reason. This is a Stroboframe flip bracket modified to use with both a Nikon SB900

that's iTTL controlled by a

Nikon SU Commander in the cameras hot shoe ...

 

... and a Hensel Radio sender to independently control up to 3 mono heads from the camera so I can adjust separate heads or all of them

at once without going to the heads to

do it. The mono can be set up at receptions to provide background lighting, which is how I use them. (the sender is mounted upside down

to keep it out of the way and

is connected by means of a sync cord to the camera's sync port.)

 

The SB900 is up high to drop shadows behind the subject, or can be swiftly removed and held anywhere that I want without the restrictions

of cord attachments. It can

also be turned off if I want to just use the Hensel Monos alone for directional or dramatic back lighting.

 

Because of the Quick release connections, it all breaks down in seconds, so the Strobo can be set aside while using the camera alone for

available light shots.<div>00QgPz-68083584.thumb.jpg.d88b51323372cbf43c8ae8cd1a15df4e.jpg</div>

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Yes.

 

When I was in high school I shot a lot of sports photos for the yearbook and school paper. Most of which was under stadium lights or indoors with poor lighting. Having the flash on a bracket got rid of the "alien eyes" look. This was B&W film days.

 

One thing I learned real quick was paying attention to what is going on around you is very important. Getting plowed into is not fun when you are lugging around a bunch of gear. Also after a couple of hours of holding up the camera arms also became very tired.

 

So the solution was to change my shooting style. I started setting the bracket on my left shoulder and focused with my left eye. I also kept my right eye open so I could catch any approaching danger. The added bonus is seeing exactly what I caught on film when the flash went off. Of course this was long before chimping :) Holding the camera on my shoulder also created a more stable platform. Back then flash sync was 1/60th for most cameras. Camera shake was always an issue.

 

I still shoot with both eyes open. Makes it much easier to catch squints and look aways when taking pics of people. Now that I'm somewhat older the stable shoulder is still important.

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Definitely! Using it in the hot shoe can only yield less than professional/acceptable results, unless it's used for fill-light outdoors.

 

I've used a Jones circular bracket for over 25 years (yes, the same one! It's indestructible!). It keeps my flash directly above the lens axis,

10-12" (in vertical AND horizontal shooting), prevents red eye, practically eliminates shadows or at least pushes them down behind the

subject with insignificance, is easy to hold with my Nikon pistol grip attached and no one else seems to have one (making it a great

conversation piece!).

 

Richard

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Yes, In most of the venues where I shoot the ambient lighting really is terrible. I like the camera flip with a

great big Qflash mounted on it that I bounce most of the time. It has the effect of raising the ambient light

levels. When the flash way up over the lens you never have to worry about unnatural shadows or red eye.

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I broke my stroboframe bracket last weekend and tonight broke my back up I used to use them all the time then started using a Gary Fong lightsphere which I love. So when i broke this one it was no biggie. However my back is killing me from using my new f 2.8 70-300mm. I was using it on a tripod during the cermony -no flash and used it hand held for some formals and reception stuff and my bakc hurts soooo bad. That thing is heavy! But I got some great images!
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How did you break 2 brackets? Hitting the bride over the head? hehe

 

I actually broke one bracket, a Jones bracket that I dropped. Since then I've only used Custom and Just Right brackets. They are heavy which can add stress to ones shoulders and back.

 

Maybe I'm too darn picky, but I don't like the Fongs. To me the skin tones are off, favoring red tones and I hate color correcting in Photoshop. Takes too much time. Because of this I'm still using brackets and I like the color tones of Quantums. I surely would love to lighten the load, but for now I'm staying with what works best for me.

 

This was for sure interesting in reading all of the different responses.

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Sure the flash and additional support bracket and handle can be quite cumbersome but it does make a difference. Even outdoors the flash helps fill in all those little shadows that hide much detail. Take a few shots with and without, after that I bet you'll always have your flash at hand.

 

 

-Joe

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I have a cheap L bracket that I use sometimes. I think it improves steadiness a little. I crop verticals out of horizontal shots- saves the bother of tipping the camera and flipping the flash. If you have a 10 mp camera the short dimension of the frame is about 2600 pixels- enough for an 8x10 in my opinion.
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<i>Take a few shots with and without, after that I bet you'll always have your flash at hand.</i>

<p>

No. Hand-held or camera-mounted flash creates an unnatural "needle-pierced" catch light and glare in the skin, unless you're using the flash with a large reflector. I would prefer to wait until the subject is looking into the (natural) light in such a way that the light fills the eyes a bit. Or use umbrellas or other large reflectors. But never a small hand-held flash for outdoor shots. YMMV

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Bob,

 

It was the darnest thing I just picked it up and heard a snap. The piece that holds the flash head has a lip where you can adjust the screw that part. It snapped just as I was picking the camera up off the pew in the middle of formals. I laid the camera down so it wouldnt fall over and I guess the wieght of the flash or something snapped it. The first one I broke last weekend? Same break same spot and I have no idea... I have had both brakets for about two years.

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Tiffany, wow, weird story. Thanks for responding. I'm glad your camera didn't fall off and hit the floor. That would not have been a pretty sight, trying to set up another camera while the people are waiting during the very limited time given for the formals.

 

Just for my own curiosity what brand were/are you using?

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Tiffany, wow, weird story. Thanks for responding. When my old Jones bracket broke I was using Hasselblads then and the Hassy body was dangling from the Metz 60 CT4 sync cord, which seemed like a long time, but it was probably less then a second. Had just enough time to get my right hand under the broken camera bracket and catch the camera.

 

I'm glad your camera didn't smack the floor.That would not have been a pretty sight, trying to set up another camera while the people are waiting during the very limited time given for the formals.

 

Just for my own curiosity what brand were/are you using?

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Bob, what I was trying to say I don't use direct flash for outdoor fill. I do use flash in the studio and for

indoor photos as in those situations I can create a large light source. I won't post wedding images online (as I

haven't made, and won't ask for such agreements from the subjects) but I can look up some of my other images to

demonstrate my point.

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Bob, perhaps you could clarify the issue you say the Fong LS is giving you with color tones. Are you using the amber dome or white dome? Are you using auto WB or a tungsten WB? Have you tried adjusting your color balance in camera? I'm just trying to think of some things to help. Generally, the Fong device is just a white diffuser, and the amber dome colors it a bit toward tungsten, so when you use the tungsten WB on your camera, colors come out more neutral. I'm actually experimenting with some very light amber gels on the lens of my flash with the LS in place to better match the tungsten tone for indoor shots. I'd like to warm them up just enough, but not too much.
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