rayn Posted June 13, 2002 Share Posted June 13, 2002 I've had consistency problems with my lab so I want to start developing my 120 black & white film at home. However, I don't want to bother with contact sheets so I'm asking if a cheap flatbed scanner can be used to quickly view the negs, once they are in a print file sheet. This would only be to check composition, facial expressions, etc. I would look at the original neg to evaluate sharpness. I would not be printing from these scans. Would this method work better than a contact sheet? (I tend to over/under expose Delta 400 as needed, which makes for lousy contact sheets). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl smith Posted June 13, 2002 Share Posted June 13, 2002 it'll be a real pain and very unreliable if you don't have a flatbed with a transparency capability (backlight). You can do it by removing the lid, placing a piece of paper over the negs and shining a light on that, but it will take some fiddling to get that right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly_flanigan1 Posted June 13, 2002 Share Posted June 13, 2002 I have an older Epson 1200U (1200dpi ) with transparency adapter; and the newer Epson 2450 photo ( 2400 dpi) ...Both will scan in 120 negatives...I have had good luck with both; but I also own 7 different scanners and have spent along time understanding how to get better scans by juggling the curves before scanning..Others may have problems...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joseph_ho Posted June 14, 2002 Share Posted June 14, 2002 i evaluate film by looking at film except for color negative films.for B&W and E6 (all my serious stuff), just look at the film for the fewest troubles. its the only way to see the range of tones you've captured. a flatbed in this day and age won't show you everything you've got going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly_flanigan1 Posted June 14, 2002 Share Posted June 14, 2002 Joseph; Many times I prescan b&w negatives as positives; and set the highlights and shadows there..then I scan it as a positive; and invert it in Photoshop..........Alot of software has more range of adjustment uising weird undocumented tricks........This adds alot of time to a scan; but after fooling with 7 scanners one gets good at extending thr scanners range.............<BR><BR>Another weird thing is that many cheaper scanners have way nonlinear response at the low dark end...........this requires some futzing around to get a good input to Photoshop.....One of my large 11x17 Mustek scanners is old; I must use some curves to get a good scan; if there is detail deep in the shadowos (for prints)...<BR><BR>For quickness; a real photographic contact print is super.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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