Ebony SW23

[jens_g.r._benthien]

I'm using a Fuji GW690 III, a GSW690 III and a Plaubel 69W ProShift for my work which consists mostly of architecture, interior, land & city scape, some portraits.

 

Now I want to add an Ebony SW23 to be able to use tilts and swings as well. Though the Schneider 5.6/47mm on the Plaubel is a great lens, I'd like to know if someone is using the Rodenstock 4.5/35mm in conjunction with a recessed lensboard with the Ebony.

 

How well performs the ground glass with this super wide angle lens? Are the edges and corners still bright enough, or do I need the optional wide angle ground glass?

 

Is it possible to add an angled viewfinder in the future, or do I have to send the camera back to Ebony for any modifications?

 

And overall, Ebony says it manufactures the camera parts with a precision of 0.1 mm - is this 'tolerance' good enough (just asking because metals can be milled with a considerably higher precision).

 

I want to stick to the 6x9 format because my complete workflow is based on this format (Nikon Coolscan 9000), so please don't recommend any larger format. I'm considering the SW23 because of its compact design and short set-up time - I think it's faster 'ready to pull the trigger' than others.

 

Any input about the SW23 is of course welcome, especially how the Ebony cameras perform in different climates (I'm working in almost all zones: hot, humid, hot & humid, hot and dry to dry, below zero degrees). Any experienced users here?

[michael_briggs2]

Re the tolerance. The equation for depth of focus is +/- CN, where C is the circle of confusion and N is the aperture (f-stop). (Usually the equation is given as 2CN, but it makes more sense to place the depth of focus on both sides of the plane of best focus.) If we use C=0.05 mm and N=4.5 for your fastest lens, the depth of focus is +/- 0.2 mm. (The appropriate value for the circle of confusion depends on how large you enlarge your films, viewing distance, how critical you are, etc.) The quoted Ebony precision is halve of this, which is just OK. But probably you will usually stop down, to say f8 or more. At f8 the depth of focus is +/-0.4 mm and the Ebony tolerance is a small contribution to focus error.

[stb]

The thing is, with 6x9, framing and focusing on the ground glass is not such a good experience. It is actually too small for that. I used to have an Arca-Swiss and their binocular viewfinder really made the framing and focusing much easier. I don't know if Ebony has such an accessory. If they do, get it.

[jimsimmons]

You should consider the Arca Swiss for your situation. Being all metal, you will not run the risk of being affected by your humidity and heat situation. (although I'm sure the Ebony is built with that in mind) The A-S is very fast to operate. Especially if you get the metric model with geared rise/fall and shift front and back. I use the A-S 4x5 Metric, and it is very fast to go from case to tripod to framed-and-focussed image. I also use the reflex binocular viewfinder that Stephane mentioned. Architecture is 90% of what I shoot with this camera.

[jens_g.r._benthien]

Jim, I have an offer for a nice but somehow 'older' Arca Swiss F line standard 6x9. Seems it's not the latest model, but it comes with lots of accessories. Maybe you or someone else can identify this model?<div></div>

[stb]

That's the same I used to have. This is an excellent camera. It is the basic model, but basic with Arca-Swiss is like basic

with Leica. Make sure the levels agree with each other on each side of the standards and front and back. If they don't it

indicates the element might be twisted.

 

I am not familiar with the viewfinder on the photo.

 

As far as I know, this model is still current.

[jens_g.r._benthien]

Stephane, unfortunately the camera is some 12.000 kilometers away, so I can't check anything, I have to rely on the information of the seller.

 

The Arca Swiss features a base tilt - is it harder or more complicated to work with than with a center tilt? Just asking because I don't want to spend endless times to adjust focus and tilt...

 

The current model has slightly different standards like this one shown here:<div></div>

[michael_briggs2]

Base tilt versus center tilt: with a base tilt camera, when for example, you tilt the standard forward, the lens

will also move forward. If the subject matter in the center of the image was already in correct focus, then you

will have to refocus by focusing the front standard back towards the rear standard to compensate. On a center

tilt camera, the focus of the center of the image doesn't change -- the top changes in one direction and the

bottom in the other. If the center is one key element and was already in focus, then no focus adjustment is

necessary -- presumedly the tilt brought some other key element into focus. But if the neither key element is

on-axis, then a focus adjustment will be needed, but smaller than the case of a base tilt camera. Some cameras

have a third option, with the tilt axis not on the axis of the lens, but not at the base of the camera, somewhat

offset from the axis, e.g.,

Ebony -- this is called asymmetric tilt. My opinion is this is a unclear term for this option. But the idea is

that a more likely

position for one of the subjects that you want to keep in focus as you tilt is somewhat off-axis. But it seems

to me that the worst option of all is base tilt, because one of the subjects that you want to be in focus will

never be

outside of the image, and this option requires the largest focus adjustment. Base tilt is common because it is

simpler to design. Some people prefer it.

[stb]

I did not notice that difference in the standard. The last one you show is the one I had.

 

Tilt adjustment is not easy. Well, it was not for me anyway. Hard to see the precise effect on the ground glass. I had

some success and some miss. Part of the problem is that for landscape the tilt angles are typically quite small and thus

difficult to adjust precisely without some sort of gear mechanism. There, a metric model would help a lot.

 

Another option is the Orbix system, which can be geared or not. The geared one is called Orbix micrometric. It can be

fitted to any F-Line camera as an accessory. However, that alone is $600... I found that way too expensive for the

limited benefits. For your type of photography rise will be the most important movement by far. Tilt is most useful for

product photography. When the occasional landscape picture needing tilt occurs, I'd spend the time to get it right with the

basic control.

 

There is an interesting Ebony alternative. It is available solely from Robert White in England, the Ebony RSW45. It is a

4x5 camera with rise, fall and center tilt movements of the front standard, sold for £845. It can be used with 6x9 backs

and 45mm lenses. I think that would be perfect for your photography.

[jens_g.r._benthien]

Michael, thank you very much for your detailed info regarding center versus base tilt. I've never thought about the fact of the object being 'off the axis center' - small difference, huge effect.

 

Stephane, I've attached an image of the somewhat 'older' standard without the rectangular cutouts on the top of the frame.

 

The Orbix might be useful, but very expensive. I'm not under pressure if I'm on location, so adjusting the standards the old fashioned way is a good way to start.

 

Because I've been searching for alternatives to the Ebony SW23, I stumbled across the Ebony SV45TE which is a very versatile camera, and if used with a 6x9 roll film back it certainly would meet my needs. However, it is a relatively large camera compared to the Ebony SW23 or the Arca Swiss 6x9.

 

BTW, the offer I have consists of the Arca Swiss 6x9 plus these items:

 

Rodenstock 180mm f5.6,

Nikkor 135mm f5.6,

Rodenstock 100mm f5.6,

Rodenstock 65mm f4.5,

Rodenstock APO Grandagon 45mm f4.5.

view finder

6x8 motorised Mamiya back and a standard Mamiya 6x7 back

Polaroid film back

Calumet viewing cloth & Peak focusing loupe

Hard carry case

 

Sounds like a good offer for Euros 2.000 or US$ 3.000 or not?<div></div>

[stb]

I had the Apo Grandagon 45mm. The lens is just incredible. However, framing is very very difficult because only the center

portion of the image is visible on the ground glass. You need real darkness and change your head position to make out the

left and right parts. I read the Schneider 47mm exhibits somewhat less of that problem.

 

Lens choice is more relevant for 6x9 because you're in medium format territory and the more recent lenses do make a

difference. More so than with 4x5 where enlarging factors are lower to get the same print. Recent lenses from both

Schneider and Rodenstock are of medium format quality. they are really impressive. But expensive, of course.

 

The kit you describe is certainly a good value at 2000 Euro. When you think of it, compared to high end digital it is a steal.

[mark_muse]

Several points:

 

The Ebony is user adjustable for any slight swelling or shrinking that might occur in the wood due to humidity. I believe

this +/- is less with ebony wood than mahogany, but not certain. I have a 23S and live in the US Mid Atlantic region

where humidity is typically very high in summer, less so in winter. In the house during the heating season it can be quite

low. I can feel the difference in the camera and can adjust it if I want to (and have) but it is really not necessary. The

23S is ebony wood.

 

I have an Ebony adapted Horseman monocular reflex viewer for my camera (the same one shown in the first Arca photo

above) that I have not been using. You can have it if you want, but I have found it to be nearly useless for all but normal

to long focal lengths. And bulky to carry around.

 

I have been looking for that Rodenstock 100mm Sironar S, since it is small, sharp, and I hike with my kit. Interested in

selling it? I have a superb Fujinon CM-W 105mm ƒ5.6 that is too big and heavy due to Fuji's effort to have a common

filter size (67mm).

 

If you are using mostly wide lenses I would get the wide angle GG from Ebony (if you buy the Ebony, which by the way

is a great little camera). Shooting architecture with a wide lens and considerable front rise will make GG viewing difficult

at best, so don't make it harder for yourself.

 

Ebony also makes a hybrid between the SW23 and the 23S which I believe gives full movements on the rear standard

too. I would personally get that one.

 

You might also want to buy the Sylvestri 6x tilt loupe for focusing. The ability to tilt into the angle of a wide lens or

extreme movement is very helpful. I took the tilt base off of mine so I can get into the corners with it but it still tilts fine

because 1/3 of the barrel is cut away.

 

One more thing: recessed lens boards are a genuine pain to use unless you have child sized fingers and can see around

corners.