Western United States - summer photo trip

[kerry_grim]

I would like to plan a trip to the west next summer, (probably, but not necessarily restricted to) mid-June with my

son. We both enjoy landscape photography and wildlife photography as well.

 

Certainly this is ridiculously early to start planning a trip, but at this point it is determining a location; then studying

up on the area- reading photographic guides to the area, etc. Western United States has so, so many beautiful

areas. We are just trying to get an idea of where to go.

 

Offhand, Rocky Mountain National Park and Glacier stand out the most. Yellowstone, while probably the best for

wildlife, may be too crowded for our tastes. I would prefer a glimpse of a Grizzly at Glacier from a quarter-mile then

being part of a bear jamb along a highway in Yellowstone. We would not do backpacking, just short hikes with photo

backpacks and tripods. Are there restrictions in Glacier for just two people hiking together? Seems I read something

about that somewhere. Considering how often and close I surprised Black Bears in Pennsylvania, I would have to

change my ways in Grizzly country!

 

My son’s first interest has been the canyons of Utah, but, I suspect it would be hot and crowded during the summer.

The trip would have to be in summer as my son is still in high school.

 

We both would like the experience of being above the tree line and possibly even seeing glaciers. The alpine habitat

of RMNP sounds inviting. When are the peak blooms of alpine wildflowers?

 

We would stay in motels near the park and I would prefer having one home base and not driving all over creation

going from one motel to the next. Time wise, we would have about a 5-7 days not including flying. Consideration

would also be made as to how accessible the parks are to the airports. Staying in a park at a lodge would probably

be the most convenient, but may prove too costly.

 

That is a bit of our background although fairly vague. I guess what I am asking is for your suggestions and personal

preferences, which of course varies from one person to the next. I am not asking for extensive details. Thanks in

advance.

[waltflanagan]

Go to a bookstore and get a book or two. I have a "Nat Parks of the American West" book, I think it's Fodors. It has lots of useful info. Personally I like driving all over the place but here's a hint. Even the crowded parks during summer aren't crowded for the first few hours in the morning (and late in the day) If you can stay on Eastern time you can be out at 6am and enjoy the park with hardly anybody around. The few people you do meet at 6am are the friendliest people in the world and the true nature lovers. In case you didn't know the main roads through Glacier and Rocky Mountain are covered in snow and closed until mid May, sometimes early June.

[tonybynum]

if youre serious about wildlife june is about as bad as it gets for wildlife. it can be good for flowers in some areas but it's in the middle of too late or too early. . .

 

go in mid to late august, or may. . . or hit it in late september and october. Let me know if you need help as the time draws more near. . .

 

Check out this blog www.glacierparkphotographer.blogspot.com and my website of my name. I live in glacier park. . .

 

Tony Bynum

[bruce_margolis]

Everyone here will give you a different 'favorite' but there are so many good possibilities. One will say Yellowstone, another says Grand Canyon, the next one says Zion........... you get the idea. Lots of great locations so it really comes down to personal choice.

 

Best thing you can do is let your fingers do the walking until you narrow down your choices. A good place to begin is right here......

 

http://www.nps.gov/

[bob_flood1]

Grand Canyon - scenery unlike anything else, but wildlife is scarce. Great hikes. If you go, go to the north rim (far fewer people). South side on the rim may be the most crowded spot in the park system.

Zion - like the Grand Canyon, there's teriffic scenery, a bit more wildlife but not a lot. More great hikes including the legendary Narrows.

Bryce - scenery unlike anywhere else AFAIK, but not a week's worth, and no wildlife.

Yellowstone - my #1 choice for wildlife, pretty high on the list for scenery. Fantastic Grizzly & Wolf Center in West Yellowstone. Staff in Jellystone tell folks 3rd week in May is best - the cubs/calves are born and out feeding, bears are out of hiberation, and school's still in so the crowds haven't arrived. But that school part is probably a dealbreaker for you.

Grand Tetons - #2 for wildlife, better scenery (IMHO) than Yellowstone, and you can do both Yellowstone and the Tetons in a week.

Yosemite - classic scenery, may be the second worst for summer crowds (not the most people, but all in a limited space in that valley).

RMNP - I have very limited experience here, but a good friend is an expert and tells me you can find all the scenery and wildlife you can stand, but you have to do your homework. Gotta be up early to find the animals.

Glacier - haven't been and don't know anyone who has. What I read tells me it's got high quality scenery, good wildlife (but apparently not on a par with Yellowstone), and much less crowded.

 

In no particular order, my suggestions:

Itinerary A: fly to Denver, rent a car, spend the week in RMNP.

Itinerary 2: fly into Jackson WY, a day in the Tetons, another in Yellowstone, drive up to Glacier, hit Yellowstone and/or Tetons again on the way back to Jackson.

Somethin' to think about for the next year, anyway.

[craig_gillette]

One thing to consider is the usual opening times for the high country. Although most roads and areas would likely be open, it's not unusual for some of the high country roads to not be open by then. This happens to be a listing for Tioga Pass but I'd expect some other areas could be similar:

 

http://www.monobasinresearch.org/data/tiogapass.htm

 

Mountain "spring" flowers would follow the snow melt so that would probably vary on a similar sort of pattern, temperature and elevation playing a large part in the timing of the season as well.

 

The east side of the Sierra doesn't have the crowds that Yosemite does, although not deserted either and offers the wide variety of the high mountain canyons, passes and lakes, and the high desert of Mono Lake and Bodie. It's a relatively compact area and with the fishing resorts and summer availability of lodging in the ski resort areas, it's not that hard to find reasonable lodging. You can get to Death Valley if desred, but also Mt. Whitney and Alabama Hills areas, north through Owens Valley and Bishop, north to Bodie and Bridgeport and even to Lake Tahoe, Carson City, Reno and Virginia City. What you won't have is much in the way of large animal type wildlife. Some bears, not common but there. Deer in much of the area and tule elk down in Owens Valley. the last two times up in that area, it wasn't "crowded." Bodie wasn't empty, enough that at mid-day on the late July trip it was kind of hard to not have people in the pictures and you had to use the shuttles from Mammoth for Devil's Postpile - to get to the monument if not camping in the area. It's a small area but it doesn't have the road capacity or parking for too many people. the shuttles stop at several places and walking isn't difficult once down there.

[kerry_grim]

Thanks so much for your replies. I won’t necessarily overlook the Grand Canyon (I have seen it, my son has not). Also under consideration would be northwest New Mexico, El Malpais, Chaco Canyon, Bisti Badlands, etc., etc. The time of our trip would be restricted to summer as my son is still in school. Otherwise, I would prefer a fall trip. Can’t go wrong either way!

 

I have to chuckle in regards to Walt’s statements about meeting the friendliest people at 6 AM and they are the true nature lovers. It matches my observations perfectly here in Pennsylvania. At a local hawk watch, around sunrise everyone says hello to you. Walk the trail later, when the after church crowd arrives, and you are lucky if 1 in a 100 visitors even acknowledges you after you say hello first.

 

It was about 5 years ago that I visited southern New Mexico. It was easy to tell the locals...they drove white pickups where we bird watched along the back country highways. Everytime, they would slow down and wave. Where I live in PA, almost no one will slow down, move an inch out of their way and you can expect blasts from their horns, just to be nasty.

[elmroc]

Kerry,

 

I just returned from Yellowstone and Grand Teton about 2 weeks ago. I was there between July 12-20.

 

FWIW, I saw wayyy more wildlife in the Grand Teton Area than i did in Yellowstone. I would have thought that Yellowstone would have more. I saw huge herds of Elk, Bison,Mule Deer, A moose way of in the distance, as well as many more Bald Eagles in the Teton area. Of the wildlife i did see in Yellowstone, the Majority of it was not in the Western portion but from the central-eastern portions. I did not hike much of the back country though in Yellowstone,(not as much as the Teton) but just in the drive outs, there were certainly more "critters" in the Teton Area.

[steveshinn]

If you should decide to look for wildlife in Yellowstone, the Lamar Valley in the NE part of the park is really nice and it was the recommendation of the locals throughout the park.. We were there mid June this year and were shooting bears, bison, wolves etc. in the falling snow.. I found tripadvisor to be invaluable for lodging; Super 8 in Cooke CIty was a real steal with decent breakfast included. I posted a few pics for the family if you are interested. Email me at nationalbird3@gmail for the itinerary we used..

[steven_f1]

I personally like the Zion Narrows. The park only opens up the narrows to hiking once the river flow drops below

120cfs. That typically happens in may. In early June there are a lot of flowers in bloom and the Humming birds were

very busy. I have also seen 2 rattle snakes there but no big animals. Even though it can be quite hot in June, inside

the narrows it is quite comfortable because you are frequently walking in the river which is cool and the cliffs block

most of the sun. In mid to late afternoon the canyon walls in the narrows can take on a nice orange color. But

lighting can change very fast.

 

Springdale is just out side of the park and there are a number of hotels there. There is a free shuttle bus that runs

through Springdale and ends at the park visitor center. Another takes you up into the canyon. For the narrows I

typically rent river shoes (they grip the wet rocks better than anything I have) from one of the outfitters in town. I also

carry two treking poles for ballance while walking in the river. I also put the camera in a water proof bag just in case.

A tripod is necessary in the narrows. Crowds are a problem around the holidays but other wise it is not too bad if

you go over a mile up stream (most people turn around within one mile).<div></div>

[andrew_cary]

As a Californian- I should argue for Yosemite and Kings Canyon/Sequoia NPs - either will give the mountain experience you like with the added bonus of a un-touristy Ghost town in Bodie (go on a weekday to avoir the crowds). You will see lots of black bears in Kings Canyon/Sequoia around sunset. I could also make a good case for Mt Lassen National Park or any of a number of other places.

 

I have spent countless hours in and around Yosemite and have not exhausted it yet, but it is crowded in the Valley in the summer.

 

Another really interesting area is the North Cascades in Washington state. Areas that I am starting to explore are the mouintains and mining camps of central Nevada...

 

However what am going to recommend is the San Juan Mountains in southern Colorado. Rent a jeep and stay in Silverton or Ouray and rent a jeep and drive the jeep roads in the area. In a short trip you will have more then enough adventure and photogenic scenery. There are old mines and even a couple of 'ghost towns' in the area to give your photos interest.

[benjamin_bigham]

If you're still considering Rocky Mountain the western side of the park offers a unique situation where it is far more remote then the Eastern side, but very easy to get too. Most visitors hit Alpine Visitors Center and turn around, leaving the western side of the park relatively deserted, the Eastern side would be packed. On the western side you got the Colorado river, some truly spectacular scenery, and a far better chance of seeing Moose, I've been there twice, and have seen moose twice, both times getting fairly decent pictures. However, trails are far longer, but the Colorado River is about 1/4 of a mile to the west of the road, so it's not a long hike into wide open fields that a good telephoto would work wonders with.:)