Summicron-m 50/2 first roll- need your help please.

[nir_dvorai]

Hi folks,

After my last question about the lens, now it's time for the first roll(with M7). I shot against the sun at a cloudy day. I got

mixed results, which I will share. Beside some flare that I think that I get, I also notice anther problem- the sun is shown

and the section between the frames! What can it be? And did you think the lens suffer from flare.

 

Thank you again for you help.

Nir.<div></div>

[nir_dvorai]

Anther shot:<div></div>

[nir_dvorai]

One more<div></div>

[nir_dvorai]

Is this a normal one?<div></div>

[nir_dvorai]

Last thing- I forgot to mantion that this is the current version- bulid-in hood.

[nir_dvorai]

What is this white dots?<div></div>

[Troll]

To answer your specific question -- yes it is flare. There is nothing wrong with the lens; it is the photographer which is the problem.<P>You ask for help. If you can afford a Leica and the latest Summicron, you should be able to afford some basic books in photographic practice, and my suggestion is that you do so and study them. There's no reason to make the same mistakes that have already been made and studied for 150 years.

[nir_dvorai]

Bill,

I thank you for your straight answer.

I in purpose gave the lens some hard time here, because I wanna to see the flare resistance of the lens. Because I invest so much money on a used one, I wanna to see if I got a got sample.

 

Thanks.

[john_layton]

I have the current version (same optical formula) which in my experience can flare in these same situations - but not nearly to the degree that yours does. So my question to you would concern the condition of the glass - both the outside of the front and rear elements and the interior - you need to look through this lens very carefully with a small but bright light source behind it - focus your eyes on the various elements (wear closeup glasses if necessary) as you rotate the lens about to see if you can see any haze. And I'm assuming that your examples were shot without any filtration? Another condition that can cause flare - although with a bit more "specificity" (in that the shape of the flare relates to its source) is either oil on the iris blades or "blade polishing" - which can happen over time to some lenses.

 

As for the sun appearing between the frames - this can indeed happen simply because there is an air space at each end of the frame, between the films surface and the ends of the frame. The frame ends are so close to the film at these locations that a well defined shadow is generally cast - but a bright and well focussed light source at the edge of the frame will sometimes "bleed around" that edge. This usually is not a problem at the top and bottom - as the long dimension of the film is in physical contact with the inner guide rails.

[nir_dvorai]

John,

First thank for your help.

2. Indid I shot without fliter.

3. I looked at the lens- looks very clean with no haze (I guess by haze, you mean like fog inside the lens?) only small cleaning marks at the rear elemant outside.

 

Thanks.

[nir_dvorai]

John,

There is one thing I did notice- some blue cast on the rear elemant outside the barrel. but I coundn't determine if this is a light reflected or something else.

[ronald_moravec1]

You have a severe test to the lens here. Use the lens shade. A AA penlight works well to examine for internal

haze, a key chain light is best with the lens seeing a black background.

 

People have reported a rectangular cut in a black circle to mask the rear element helps. Make it the same ratio as the film,2:3 and

as large as possible.

 

Summilux lenses flare less.

[michael_darnton1]

As for the white spots, did you burn a couple of holes in your shutter while messing around pointing the camera at the sun? Time, and subsequent pictures, will tell. . . .

[john_shriver]

Yes, my first instinct here is light leaks, in the camera, and maybe due to burning holes in the shutter curtain.

[nir_dvorai]

The photo with the white spots was the first photo, before shotting to the sun.

How can you define the burning holes in the shutter?

[mukul_dube]

Holes in the curtain(s) would give streaks, not blobs.

[michael_darnton1]

You will eventually discover if that's the case, if you repeatedly get white spots in the same spots, whenever your camera has been exposed to a lot of light through the lens. You could run a test by taking the lens off outside, and exposing the interior of the camera to the bright sky, then replacing, covering the lens and firing off a blank (unexposed) shot. If you get the same white dots, you've got holes.

[marek_fogiel]

I also use the M7 with a 50mm lens, but I usually try to avoid shooting against the sun, because of the cloth shutter. Also,

the Summicron is not a champion of flare resistance, if you want to shoot colour this way, sell the Summicron and get the Planar -

you will see the difference...

[mark_hahn]

not always, holes may not show up with curtain movement, but will if the lens cap is off for prolonged periods of time. this is how I found I had holes in a beater FED 1 camera. Never saw a streak.

 

>>Holes in the curtain(s) would give streaks, not blobs.

[mukul_dube]

Quite right, Mark. I was assuming that the lens would not be exposed to bright light for long. The final test, of course, would be what Michael proposes. Both leading and trailing curtains should be tested.

[Robin Smith]

No I think the lens is alright. All lenses will flare under such an intense light. The current Summicron-M does flare

unexpectedly occasionally, I find, but not as dramatically as you have shown. You are clearly expecting the

impossible.

 

The spots, I think, are processing defects - surprisingly common and unfortunately more common than they used to

be with the advent of digital (fewer good processing outfits these days).

[Gus Lazzari]

Wow! It doesn't take Sherlock Holmes to grasp the obvious. Nir's hazardous testing activity has burned holes in his curtain(s). On non-metal curtains, non-SLR, with the lens cap off (usually on infinity); it just takes a moment during framing and a steady hold.

 

Remove the lens on the M7 and inspect both curtains, he'll possibly see burn tracts in the rubberizing material then the major burn. If this is the case then its also possible to have the burn fumes obstruct the light path (Fog flare) or even coat the rear element! Needless to say and among other things, don't be this ignorant...

[nzdavid]

From my experience, seasoned professionals will avoid taking the picture if the lighting is no good or there's the likelihood of bad flare; they

will look for another angle -- unless there is absolutely no choice and a bad picture is better than none. This is practical advice I try to

follow. That said, some very effective shots can be made that include the sun in the frame or just out of it -- perhaps tucked behind a

branch. Surely, this doesn't burn a hole in the shutter straightaway! However, the hood (which I always used, btw) doesn't prevent flare; it

just minimizes it. Using your hand, hat or a magazine may help. But care is needed. I see little in testing for flare when these are pictures

you won't want to keep. Sorry, can't help with the white spots.

[nir_dvorai]

Thank you friends for your kind help and informative theard.