Buying a used Omega 4x5

[felicia_wong]

Hi there,

I have recently been thinking about purchasing a 4x5 camera. I am taking a required view camera course next year,

and renting a camera from Calumet for the year is already something like $250. I want to make sure I'm not

getting ripped off on this camera I found on Craigslist, which seems like a good deal. It comes with all of this:

 

4x5 Omega View Camera (bellows a little worn) 18"monorail

150mm Rodenstock lens f6.3 Copal 0

lens board

lupe

darkcloth

film changing bag

4 - 4x5 film holders

polaroid 545 pro +film

 

My only reservation is that the bellows on this camera are very worn; some parts are peeling and threatening to

rip. I have no experience with LF and was wondering if this will affect my exposure at all? Would it be ok to

just repair it with some tape/glue, or do I need to replace the bellows entirely? I can't seem to find

replacement bellows on keh or ebay...

 

All of this is being sold for $325. Is it worth it? Should I keep looking? Help a desperate student out!!

[leicaglow]

So long as the Omega has interchangeable bellows, you should be fine because there are so many for sale used, and they are still available new. I've never seen an Omega view camera with worn out bellows though. They are pretty tough. It would make me wonder if it is otherwise mechanically sound, such as smooth movements, clean gears, tight, etc. They aren't going for an arm and a leg these days, so it's in the ballpark pricewise.

[dave_s]

FWIW, the lens is presumably a Geronar. This will give you pretty restricted movements, although I don't know if this will be limiting for your course. (A 150 Geronar at f/22 has a 180mm image circle.) May be a factor to consider.

[User_503771]

I'm afraid I have to disagree with the comment above about the bellows -- I haven't found Toyo/Omega bellows to be tough at all, and most of the ones I've seen on the used fixed-bellows models have had pinholes at least

 

However, they are pretty cheap to replace, and if you do the job yourself (just takes some observation, patience, a screwdriver and some contact cement) you can cut the cost even further.

 

Therefore, I'd think that the package is a little high-priced considering that you'd best replace the bellows.

 

Not seeing it, though, how can I be sure? It might very well be that you could get away with patching it. But be aware that patching too much is going to increase the thickness of the bellows when the camera is folded. This isn't a problem with a 150mm lens but if you want to use wide-angle lenses it could make a bit of a difference.

 

I've noticed a number of interchangeable-bellows models on the 'Bay lately for real bargain prices. You might be wise to hold out for one of those, and buy the lenses and film holders separate.

 

But do the cost analysis first. You can search for each item in completed auctions to see what you're up against.

 

Good luck and have a good time with your class!

[christopher_graham1]

I don't know some of the most basic cameras are going for 100 to 200 bucks on ebay and then you have to buy a lens which is fairly hard to find for under 150 bucks and film holders which you can get like 4 or 5 for 20 bucks but the Polaroid back, which best I can tell will border on useless for her by the end of next year Unless she uses a lot of quickloads which being a student I wouldn't recommend, goes for well over 100 bucks. New bellows go pretty cheap these days. However, as has been stated I would be a little worried about the movements and everything on something that sounds like it was well used before it sat for a while.

[dave_redmann]

Instead of renting a view camera for $250, I would definitely try to buy one. Whether your particular deal is a good one is a little hard to evaluate, without checking the mechanical conditin of the camera, the light-tightness of the bellows, and the condition of the lens (do you know how to do that?).

 

I think I was very fortunate, but a few months ago I bought an Omega View 45D (a 17.3-inch monorail), Rodenstock Geronar 210mm f/6.8 lens in a shutter and board, three double film holders, a focusing cloth, and a hard case, all in very good condition, for $140 on eBay. If the seller had had more than one prior transaction, the bidding probably would have gone a fair amount higher, but I had exchanged e-mails with the seller, who seemed to be legit--and was.

 

You do need to find out whether use of movements is part of the class, and also exactly which 150mm lens this is (although it sounds like a Geronar). If movements are taught, a 150mm Geronar won't work too well. You need about a 155mm image circle to cover a 4x5, but for movements you want more, I'd say over 200mm; a 227mm image circle will let you use rise or shift of half the frame on the short side (e.g., rise in landscape orientation), 260mm will let you use rise or shift half the frame on the long side (e.g., rise in portrait orientation). The 210 Geronar's image circle at infinity focus and f/22 is 230mm, but the 150 Geronar's is 180mm, so your movements will be pretty limited, unless the subject is very close to the camera.

[ashton_lee3]

I wouldn't be in a hurry to buy that package. The camera sounds tired, and the lens isn't exactly a classic.

 

Keep an eye on E-Bay for a few weeks... if you want a monorail you can probably find a Sinar F1 or Horseman package for about the same money. And if you can make do with a field camera you can find a Tachihara or Shen Hao for just a bit more. For great bargains look in the vintage camera section and scan for "4x5"... often times you can find reasonably current equipment being sold by sellers who think it is "outdated/antique/just a curiousity". Cameras with lenses often go for well under $200 that way. Just make sure that if you buy anything pretty old that the lenses have flash sync.

 

If you will have access to school lenses give some good thought as to what lens boards they use. Sinar/Horseman is certainly one common "pro standard". Many of us amateurs/field camera users use the Linhof Technika as a standard lens mount. The smaller Linhof board is easily adapted to fit the larger Sinar when we use our lenses on a monorail.

 

I find that packages sell on E-Bay for considerably less than the value of the individual pieces... because most buyers don't need everything in the package. In your case, you may well.

 

Lots of the older packages come with Schneider Symmar or Kodak Ektar lenses. The Symmars are fine for most uses. The Commercial Ektars and Wide Field Ektars are in many ways better than lots of today's lenses. Just stay clear of "Press" lenses (127 Ektar, Optars, Angulons) which don't give you movements. If you are doing mostly studio work look for a 210mm or 8&1/2 inch lens. If you will be doing field work you may want to go a bit shorter (150mm ???)

 

I work in the financial markets, and as one of my colleagues is fond of saying, "There is no perfectly efficient market in the real world... except for E-Bay".

[Troll]

Sounds a little high and risky to me.

[erie_patsellis]

If you are deadset on the Toyo, get a 45F or 45G, both allow the bellows to be swapped easily.

[red_pepper]

I saw a similar camera on ebay for $375 without a lens. It looks like a pretty good deal. Maybe get the person to lower the

price if you have to get a new bellows.

[felicia_wong]

I think I can bargain her down to $250. I checked the lens and it is in excellent condition; but am clueless as to how to check the bellows for light tightness. Any pointers? Also, where would be a good place to get a set of bellows, asides from KEH and ebay?

[leigh_musicof1]

I picked up this model camera in February with a Rodenstock 150mm f/6.8 lens. You can get replacement bellows on E-Bay for around $60. To replace the bellows, it requires a bit of surgery and good glue.

 

To check the bellows, turn the lights off and take the lens board off the front end. Stick a flashlight down the tube and look to see if you can see points of light.

 

If the bellows has lots of holes, and you're doing studio work, you will get light leaks. My bellows has a few pin holes that I see if the bellows is fully extended. I do landscape photography and the bellows is almost fully compressed when I shoot, I don't see the light leaks.

 

Good Luck!!