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4X5 polaroid question....


andrew_paynter

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I want to start shooting 4x5 pinhole with a 545 polaroid back. I

have a couple of questions:

1. any reccomendations for black and white film and a good,

saturated color film?

 

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2. when you shoot and peel, what do you do with the 4x5 neg to

archive it and eventually print with it? Do you need to soak it?

 

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thanks so much!!!

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Polaroid makes many B&W films with speeds from ISO 50 to

ISO 3000. The Polaroid material that producs a negative as well

as a print is Polaroid type 55. For the best negative exposure rate

it (for metering purposes) at ISO 32 or 25. If you are going to do

very long exposures (like over 4 to 5 seconds) you get into

severe reciprocity failure problems.<P>Yes the negative needs

to be cleared ofthe processing solution in either a sodium sulfite

solution or running water.

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Elis Verner's answer confirms what I thought but could someone

elaborate a little bit more on how practically this is supposed to

work ? Specifically, I'd like to know how and when the neg has to be

processed in the sulfide bath. Does one have to carry some sort of

trays or drums when shooting outdoors, or can one process the neg

later back at home ? And one more question if I may : what is the

dilution required for the sulfide bath ?

 

<p>

 

Thanks

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Andrew,

The crud on the type 55 p/n film can get pretty stubborn to

remove if you let it sit without doing something. The sulfite

solution isn't really anything I'd like sloshing around in the field

as it tends to get kind of ouchy if it gets on your skin. You might

try getting a tupperware type of container filled with water to keep

your negatives in until you get them home. You could remove the

packet after exposure without breaking the chemical pod, then run

them through your polariod back to develop when you get home. Or you

can get a yankee developing tank with a snap on lid---I think Calumet

has them---or a clearing bucket that polaroid makes especially for

clearing type 55p/n and take your chances. Good luck!

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Polaroid makes a tank sold by Calumet that you can put the negs into

for clearing. It is a bit bulky but works. Incidentally, try using

Permawash, 3 ounces per gallon instead of sulfite. It mixes far more

easily and rinses the crud from the negative.

After decruding the negative, back at home or wherever your hat hangs

that day you can but do not have to put negatives into standard fix

bath--Kodak rapid fix with hardener, re- permawash, wash using a

fill,refill, photoflo and dry. those steps reduce the chances of

inadvertant scratching.

Bob

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With Type 55,

1. It's much easier to take the negatives, undeveloped, back to the

darkroom (or your kitchen, whatever) and process them. It saves

carrying around the bucket or tupperware container. You don't get

anything by processing the negative in the field. It is useful to

process the print in the field, and then adjust exposure for ISO

difference.

 

<p>

 

2. I've had good luck ignoring the sulfide solution, soaking in

water, and then hosing off the develope 'gunk' with a high pressure

hose~~such as the one attached to many kitchen faucets.

 

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3. You need to perform your own tests for ISO for both prints and

negatives with Polaroid film ~~ just like 'real film.'

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Andrew, I shoot type 55 exclusively for B&W LF, and have done so for

the last 10 years. I bring the 55 back to the darkroom for processing.

In the field I shoot a type 54 to confirm exposure and composition,

then shoot the 55(with exposure compensation) and keep the two

together for reference. This works very well for me after some

initial disasters trying to process 55 in the field. It really is

messy in the field and dust is a real big problem.

Ed

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