alice_hainsworth Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 I have a new K20D & 18-250 lens on the way. I need a good filter for tropical island & ocean shots. Can you suggest type & brand? Mid to High end quality? Thx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xpiotiavos Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 for island and ocean shots, i would definitely recommend using a circular polarizing filter (a hoya pro1 or a B+W, depending on your budget). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritestress Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 The Lee Filter system is the gold standard. Check out the following links. http://www.leefilters.com/camera/ http://www.leefilters.com/camera/products/packs/category:Resin+Filter+Sets/ http://www.leefilters.com/camera/products/range/ref:I46CBFACFBD385/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stemked Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 In addition to a circular polarizer, I would recommend two other filters for your trip. 1) Full ND filter. If you plan to photograpgh waterfalls and you want to get longer exposures for the dreamy flow look (also set your ISO low and think f16) 2) ND gradient. Great to darken skys and keep them from washing out in landscapes; especially helpful if there is any cloud cover to give clouds some definition. I personally use Cokin gradient filters (actually not a true ND gradient, but cheap), but there are much more expensive true NG filters out there, I think either Lee or Sunray(?) systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miserere_mei Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 "1) Full ND filter. If you plan to photograpgh waterfalls and you want to get longer exposures for the dreamy flow look (also set your ISO low and think f16)" To add to what Doug said, you will need a tripod for best results. Are you also asking about a simple UV protective filter? With the ocean breeze carrying sand particle, I think it's a good idea to use a UV filter all the time to protect the front element. Depending on how much you're willing to spend, they can cost anywhere from $15 to $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mendel_leisk Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 I've been thinking about an ND. Sounds like fun for creating daytime time exposures. Also, I'd second a quality UV filter, such as the B+W MRC. Assuming that's a crop factor body you won't need the slim version. Slim filter become necessary with extreme wide angle, to avoid vignette, but you'll likely be ok with that combo. I *always* purchase a UV filter with the lens, put it on immediately, and leave it on constantly, with the rare exceptions of using a CP filter, or for something like a night exposure with bright light sources. In the latter situation the filter will likely introduce reflections. There are definitely two schools of thought on having a UV filter on fulltime, so this is just my 2 cents: If you think you can deal with the occasional fingerprint on your lens and will keep them for the long term, leave the lens bare. There is likely a slight improvement in image quality without the extra layer of glass. But if you're fastidious and want to keep the front element of the lens pristine, you *will* need to keep a filter on there all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewg_ny Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Thoughts on filter size; the 62mm size is common for Tamron, but not for Pentax. For Pentax, you're more likely to have 58, 67, or 77mm filters (also 49 and 52). When purchasing filters consider whether or not you might want to use a step-up adapter so that the filter could be shared on another lens. A downside to a adapter of this sort is that the bayonet hood will likely no longer fit, or at least you may have to remove the filter & adapter to install/remove the hood. So a proper/exact-fitting protective/UV/haze filter is probably a good idea but for a more expensive special-effect filter consider whether you might want to use it on more than one lens. For example, 67mm would also fit a DA16-45, DA17-70, DA* 50-135, among others if you think you might ever own one of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_kuhne Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Hoya filters are very well made, and reasonably priced. For a protective filter, I like their skylight 1B Super HMC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgredline Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Personally, I used to be so ''against'' filters figuering that additional glass would compromise image quality...When I first started this adventure called photography, the sales man talked me into some Sunpack uv filters to protect the lens. This made sense to me, after all 15 bucks to protect a $200.00 lens made sense...Well it did not take me long figure out that cheap filters will hurt image quality and good filters like the B+W UV haze 10 filters will help, especially during the day. Polorizers are also a great investment. There I have not seen any difference between cheap (tiffen) and good (B+W) polorizers... I do have a question, perhaps Mis or someone knows. Why is it that element on Circular polarizers spin? They do not tighten down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelc Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Javier, I am assumming that you are referring to the fact that you can turn a circular polarizer. If I am incorrect in my assumption I apologize. You turn the circular polarizer until you get the correct polarization effect. You can test this by taking a picture of water or just use clouds in the sky. You will notice the whiteness and puffiness of the clouds increase as you turn the polarizer. By turning the polarizer, you can adjust the refraction of the light rays. Adjust it to where it looks the best and then shoot away. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miserere_mei Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Mike, you're *almost* correct; it just that "refraction" is not the effect you were looking for; maybe "transmission"? :-) Here's the Wikipedia entry for polarizing filters, a quick read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizing_filter#Polarizer And here is the entry for the physical effect of polarization, a longer read, but you could just look at the informative picsl it's worth it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizer I'll be happy to answer any questions if anyone has any later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelc Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 Absolutely right Mis. Perhaps I should have said "reflected" instead of refraction. Do I get any marks cause both start with re...............:) As usual, you answered the question with excellent reference points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frygge Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 I too used to be against filters on expensive lenses, but with the front element of my 31mm being so large and unprotected I invested in a Hoya Pro1 Digital SMC UV filter. I'm quite impressed with it. Only got one picture with flare so far and that was when I tortured the filter by having low sunrays come in from the side, resulting in a tiny green dot. Quality cost though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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