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Tmax processing kit too expansive


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I couldn't find a local store to proces 4x5, so I have started doing this by myself

with a Jobo CPE2. E-6 is easy and relatively cheap, even with one cycle use I

pay like $.50 per Fuji sheet film and the slides are cleaner and better than store

processed ones in the past; however, I have just noticed that the TMAX kit is very

expansive in comparison. With a Jobo 2500 tank, I will need 270ML to process 6

sheets. A kodak Tmax kit cost $33 before shipping. It can only make 964ML

which is about 20 sheets capability. It seems too expansive for me. My question

is "What's the benefit of doing Tmax reversal processing VS negative

processing?" I figured that with negative processing, there might be more choices

of kits at much lower prices available, but I have never liked scanning with

negatives and that's why I want to try reversal processing. I am curious to see

what other people are doing with the least money spent on chemicals that will

work with JOBO. Thank you for your suggestions in advance!

 

Yige

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I find B&W to be much cheaper, you can buy the chemistry powdered and thus, shipping is also much lower than for E6 and C41.

HC110 is good, I have used D76 with great results.

 

Now that I have read your question fully, I understand. Dont even try making positives out of Tmax film. It is possible, but very expensive as youve found out and the quality is significantly degraded.

Negs are easy to scan in my opinion, especially B&W.

I dont know of anyone who would do positive B&W. Just use slide film, and E6 and convert to B&W in photoshop.

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I've never heard of anyone trying to do B&W reversal processing in 4x5. If you do, you're stuck with a piece of film you can't make prints from and are forced to scan, and unless you're on a very high quality film scanner you're going to lose a good bit of the image quality achieved by shooting 4x5. I would stick with traditional negative processing, which is cheap and works for the traditoinal workflow of 4x5.
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Thank you for all the answers! I tried reversal because I have a Precision II scanner and I know that it is tricky sometimes to scan BW negatives. Since this process is so expansive, I will probably try HC110. I do my own E6 color reversal also so it shouldn't be that difficult. I might do two sets of BW with one in reversal and one in HC110 just to compare to see.
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HC-110 by itself will give you negatives. I suppose you could use it as the base of the first and second developers in a reversal process if you want to, but I'm in agreement with the folks who think this is not the best idea going. I also don't think that you'll have any better luck scanning a B&W transparency with your scanner than you are having with B&W negatives. Many film scanners don't do well with traditional B&W films because the metallic silver structure of the image scatters the light used in the scanner. E6 transparencies and C-41 negatives have a completely different image structure made up of translucent dyes. There is no metallic silver in either of these media to scatter the light and degrade the image. I think you'd be much better served by shooting C-41 or E6, then converting to monochrome in the photo editor of your choice. Be advised though that you will need to spend some time and effort learning how to do the monochrome conversion properly. A simple desaturation process can leave you with some rather odd tonal values.
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I would disagree fully with all the replies in this thread.

 

Transparencies are 10 times easier to scan, be they B&W or E6.

Check out dr5.com . There you will find much info on B&W processing, negs or positives.

 

PHALL

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