B&W Films/Paper for MF

[david_corwin]

Perhaps we can get a string going here. I am interested in opinions on B&W films for MF.

I recently got a P67 and have shot some T-MAX 100 processed with T-MAX developer, and I'm pretty happy with the results. But I hear of those who swear by Ilford. Any opinions on HP5+? I'm looking for more speed, with finest grain (for 16 x 20 enlargements), high acutance, and max detail in shadow areas. I shoot primarily landscapes. If yes on the HP5, which developer?

Also any comments on B&W paper...looking for rich blacks, luminous highlights and subtle gradation

[james_bullard]

You might want to consider Ilford's XP-2. It's a chromogenic film (dye based and developes in C-41 chemicals) that has a braod latitude and very fine grain. The images aren't quite as crisp (I don't know how else to describe it) as my other favorite Ilford Pan F Plus, but it's sharp and shadow detail is great. As for paper I use Ilford Multigrade IV and split filtration printing. It gives me tremendous control over local contrast.

[tim_brown]

Here's the B&W films I shoot in my Mamiya TLR's:

 

<p>

 

XP-2:

Great all purpose film. Great latitude but I get best results at E.I. 200 with grain and sharpness between 100 speed and 400 speed films. Negs are about 1/2 grade softer in contrast than the films I develop below. Caveat for me is cost to get XP-2 developed in a lab, but I get 5x5 prints, and if someone else is paying...

 

<p>

 

Delta 400:

Alot of folks say it's speed is overrated, but I get EI320 developed in Xtol diluted 1+2. It's subtlely grainier than TMAX 400 but it's more forgiving with exposure and development. Developed in undiluted Microphen I get EI800 and slightly grainier, still less grainy than "last generation" films like Tri-x, HP5P etc. I do alot of handheld and indoor strobe shooting with this film.

 

<p>

 

TMAX100:

This film can make 35mm look almost like MF (it's coarser grained than Tech Pan, but I think it has better tonal qualities, and certainly easier to work with). It can make MF look almost like LF. The sharpness of this film is a challenge to any MF lens, IOW this is a tripod or strobe film. I'm sure Delta 100 is comparable and I'll try it as soon as I run low on TMAX 100 (I bought a s**tload a couple of years ago).

[david_rossiter]

I have been using TMX 120 in t-max and have recently tested the film

in XTOL. I got VERY good results with extememly fine grain and full film speed at a 1-3 dilution at 24C (75F)for 13 minutes.

[peter_pflasterer]

I am an amateur shooting strictly for my own pleasure. There are myriad combinations of materials and processes to choose from, so the choices are highly personal, but I have standardized on T-MAX 400 (TMY 120) developed in HC110. Because I like to hand-hold my cameras, I like the speed of the TMY. As I don't enlarge past 11 x 14, the grain of TMY is not a problem. The HC110 devloper is cheaper than T-MAX developer and gives excellent results with this film, plus I can mix it straight from the bottle for one-shot use and not have to worry about stock solution going bad in intervals of low usage (I know Kodak says not to do this, but I've never had a problem with consistency of development).

 

<p>

 

I also like T-MAX 100 (TMX 120) for times when I want finer grain. These films are not hard to handle if you do the processing yourself and establish repeatable procedures: you get repeatable results you can count on. With these films it is also easy to get the contrast expansion and contraction for zone system use.

 

<p>

 

Kodak's Technical Pan is another fun film to use at medium format. Shoot at ASA 25, develop in HF110 dilution F to produce wonderfuly smooth negatives with nearly zero grain.

 

<p>

 

For paper, I have settled on Zone VI Brilliant VC (sold now by Calumet) after comparing it with Ilford MGIV FB and Kodak Polymax Fine Art. These papers are all close in performance, but the Kodak paper is way too cold (blue) for my taste. The Brilliant seems to have a slight edge in low zone separation over the others, but the Ilford is very close.

[a._t._seliotis]

I use, almost exclusively, TMX and TMY 120 roll film. Occasionally I

have run Tri-x and Plus-x through the Hassy. Regardless what I use

my developer of choice is HC-110. Nothing else has given me the

tonal range and punch that I desire.

 

<p>

 

As for papers I use kodak and ilford multi-contrast RC papers. The only new thing I have been experimenting with is the new ilford

multicontrast fiber paper. I still reserve judgement.

 

<p>

 

I would suggest developing the HP5+ with the HC-110 and play with

developing time to fine tune your contrast.

 

<p>

 

Good Luck

 

<p>

 

A.T.S.

[john_lehman]

For highest sharpness, APX-25 in Rodinal (on a tripod). For

normal use (travel and landscapes), FP4+ in PMK. For travel,

Delta-400 in PMK (I get about EI 320, but develop the same as

for HP5+ which is longer than the published recommendation).

For winter snow scenes, APX-400 in Rodinol.

[larry_hensley1]

Agfa 25 in Rodinal is excellent - fine grain, sharp and rich blacks.For anything that moves too much for ASA 25, Delta 100 is impressive. Less blue sensitive, but more grain. Larry.

[andrew_stivers]

I shoot with Ilford Pan F and have always had good results. I process in dektal. I print on Forte neutral tone fiber base polycontrast paper. I split filter print for best results. Making tonalily beautiful images is a long process. Try a lot of different recipes and learn what is good for what you shoot. I usually print 20x24 or larger and have no grain problems. I also tone all of my prints in selinium(1:20) dil. I pull my prints right when I start to see the purple cast appear.

 

<p>

 

Check out Clyde Butcher, a Florida Everglades landscape photographer, for some awesome tones. He has a web sight, but I am unsure just search for him.

 

<p>

 

Andrew Stivers

[john_melanson]

I use TMY with PMK (pyro) developer. The grain is hard to find, even at 16X20. Lots of snap, very very long highlight zone (still going strong at zone 13!!!)

I develop with a JOBO rotary rig - very repeatable.

 

<p>

 

I think the tempermentality of TMX TMY is mostly folklore - the only think that's tricky is the loading onto reels - the base is very springy.

[terry_roth]

I use 5X7 and MF---in 5X7, hp5+ and FP4+ in PMK gives grainless 16X20

with beautiful scale. In MF, I like FP4+ or Delta 400 in PMK, 12.5 minutes at 72 degrees. I tried Delta400 (120) with several developers, including Edwal TG-7 (medium grainy, nice scale but not as sharp as others); TMAX 1:5 (very sharp but _very_ contrasty, med. grain), Formulary BW2 2-solution(1:1:3), this was quite grainy and medium sharp; Rodinal 1:50 grainy and very sharp, negs a bit thin;

and PMK at recommended dilution and given times. I like the smooth

creamy sky tones best with PMK, and it seems to have best highlight tones, and is less grainy than all others I have tested. Delta 400 is rated at 320-- I shot a little Delta 100 in Rome

and it was not as nice in low zones as FP4+. In fact, I prefer HP5 and FP4 to the tab-grain films, but the difference is subtle.

The tabular-grain developers are not as great as advertised. I have heard good things about XTOl, but have not used it. One advantage of PMK is that is is really inexpensive compared to the others.

I use a color-head enlarger with VC paper in MF, a cold-light with

Forte Warm-tone in LF. Have gotten very nice results with Multigrade 4, also.

[grunzweig photography]

I have used both TMAX 100 and APX 100 films, without question I have had more predictable results from the Agfa film. I use a small tank processor. The TMAX always blows out the highlights and it is much easier to balance the negatives contrast with the Agfa film - develop the Agfa in Rodinal and the TMAX in TMAX developer. I have found the KODAK's Polymax Fine Art FB papers are very consistent with great tonal range. I use Dektol 1:2.

[david_bence]

David

 

Ihave a pentex 67 and have been shooting TMAX 100 and AGFA PAN 25. I love both of these films and have been able to get very sharp 16 x 20 prints using both. I use TMAX RS develeper 1-9 @ 75o for the TMAX film and D-76 straight @ 68o for the AGFAPAN (both normal develpment times.)

 

I print on Ilfor Multigrade IV FB and love this papers tonal range!

 

Good luck

 

David Bence

[victor_lioce]

I prefer the Ilford products to the Kodak when it comes to B&W. I especially prefer the Ilford papers. I have shot Plus-X and developed in D-76, and when I print, the Ilford Multi-contrast gives me a much more even tonal range than any if its Kodak comparables. And I see that much improvement again, if I switch to Ilford films. I like the ID-11 film developer and the recommended dilution from stock.

 

Also regarding papers, if you really want great quality images, go for Ilford Gallery papers. I know it's a pain because you don't get variable contrast, but if you work with your film exposure and developments you should start producing negatives that are more consistently printable on one grade of paper. You do have to spend more time on permanency issues like hypo-clearing and washing, but it is worth the effort.

[michael_clark]

After several years of experimenting with 120 film (645 format), I have developed some favorite combinations. For overall shooting, TMAX 100 in TMAX developer. When I want a little more contrast with extremely fine detail but at a medium film speed, my choice is Delta 100 developed in TMAX or XTOL (1:2). For higher speed I still like 120 Tri-X develped either in TMAX or Xtol. I've tried Delta 400, TMY, and others, but have found nothing that yields the "pop" and contrast range in this film. Of course, you have to contend with more grain than newer films, but at 11X14 this is rarely a problem. For very high speed I really like Delta 3200 developed in TMAX. For lower speed I sometimes use Tech Pan, but I tend to shoot a lot of Konica 120 Infrared. This film, exposed without a red filter, can be used as a standard, fine grain B&W film. Adding a red filter in bright sun results in the expected "infrared look" though with more subtle effects than Kodak B&W 35mm Infrared. It is an ideal film for photographing old wooden buildings, ghost towns, etc. I develop it in TMAX at 1:8.

 

I now print everything using Ilford MG IV fiber, developed in Ilford Multigrade developer. It yields great tonal range, with good highlight and shadow detail. In fact, this combination has been so successful that several B&W photographer colleagues have been impressed enough to switch from their "tried and true" products. Its certainly done well for me in local, regional, and national competitions.