New Film Advice

[matthew_hoag]

I currently shoot 4x5 TMax 100 EI at 83, developed in trays with D:76 1:1. I am pretty satisfied with my results on the whole but recently I feel that the tonal scale is too contrasty - the middle greys are not smooth (for back of better wording). This could be my developing but I am considering trying a faster film, ISO 400, as my understanding is that the faster the film the less contrasty they tend to be (also bigger grains). My biggest enlargements are 16x20.

This leaves me with 4 (albeit more, but for my area and availability), options: TMax 400; Tri X; HP5 Plus & Delta 400. I am not a big fan of the speed and development testing procedures and I realize that I "should" shoot them all and figure out which one is for me. However, I am looking for some direction from those who might have had some experience with the above 4 films that I can draw upon without having to test each film for EI and development times.

 

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Looking at the Characteristic Curves on these they all look fairly similar. Are any of the films better suited for certain situations? Delta and TMax are newer and therefore might they have more limitations with regards to available developers or in other regards? Any nuances that anyone has noticed and can share with me would be most greatly appreciated.

 

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I continue to benefit from reading the Q&A on this forum and enjoy it immensely. Thanks to all those in advance who contribute.

[ellis_vener_photography]

you might try switching to Tmax developer. John Sexton has

developed a method of diluting the Tmax developer to get a

negative that is comparable in range to developing in Pyro

developer.

[charlie_strack]

If you want to stick with TMax films, I liked TMax RS developer when

I shot TMax 400.

 

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But for other options, a quick & easy way without testing is to shoot

Tri-X or HP5+ at 1/2 rated speed, and develop in divided D-76 or

something similar. The divided developer compensates, making sure you

don't top out at the high end of the curve, and 1/2 speed gets you

shadow detail.

 

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While not as clinical as shooting for Dmin & running developing

tests, you can actually test film by using real subjects.

[ed b.]

If you want to stick with non-pyro developers, you might also give

Divided D-23 a try with T-Max 100 or 400. Joseph Lipka has an article

on it at <a href=http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/DD-23/dd-23.html>

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/DD-23/dd-23.html</a>.

[kcrisp]

Matthew: If the problem which bothers you is something you are

noticing recently, make sure you are using fresh D-76. Some people

report contrast picks up when it has aged for a while.

[david_goldfarb]

I'll concur with the last comment. I don't find I have contrast

problems with TMX (8x10") in D-76 1:1, but it does pick up if it's not

fresh.

 

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Also, what is your agitation technique? I develop in trays and do one

shuffle every 30 seconds. If you use tubes, that could push up the

contrast as well.

[michael_kadillak3]

I remember reading about T-Max films from an article by Sexton a

while back that was reinforced by others that had previous experience

with T-Max films. The conclusion was that T-Max films are very picky

on the subject of agitation and temprature. As a result, Sexton found

them a good match with the JOBO. I found the same inconsistencies

with tray development and just about gave up on the film. However,

after I had a chance to see how this film could perform consistently

with a JOBO, I got a CPP2. One of the things I love about this film

is its reciprocity characteristics. I second the recommendation for T

Max RS developer.

[henry_friedman]

Forget Delta 400 in 4X5; it's been discontinued.

[dave_anton]

I would begin by looking at your processing technique. YOu should be

able to consistently control contrast by your processing. Moving

upto a faster film doesn't really solve the problem. With TMAX, as

others have already said, It is VERY sensitive to temp and agitation.

If you are not getting smooth mid-tines with TMAX 100 then something

is off. Consider lowering your temp until it matches your agitation

tecnhique or just slow down on your agitation. Maybe try other

developers.

[dave_anton]

...sorry about my very sloppy typing above. After I re-read my

response, it annoyed the hell out of me.

[george_nedleman]

Sexton uses TMax 100 single load in TMax RS; Bond uses TMax 400-

larger film/reciprocity in D-76. Both use Jobo. I use TMax 100 roll

in TMax dev 1:5 7 min @70F in a tank; 30 sec initial + 5 "rolls"

every 30 sec. Very consistant results. I strongly suggest testing to

get your EI and plot curve(s).

George

[chris_jordan3]

hey Matthew, give Tri-X a test. I used T-MAX for years because it's

the sharpest film around, but it was always on the contrasty side for

me too, especially in the midtones. Tri-X has a lovely smooth

mid-tone creaminess that's great for shooting people. And an added

benefit is that Tri-X doesn't seem as fragile as T-Max, which I've

found scratches super easily.

 

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~chris jordan (Seattle)

[john_welton]

Matthew, I'll second Chris' recommendation for Tri-X. I develop in

PMK (photographer's formulary) and mid tones are just superb for me,

especially Zone 4-5 tones. I am going into the darkroom later this

week to try Barry Thornton's Dixactol on some Tri-X and HP5+ negs I

shot here at the beach in SC. I'll report back on my findings.

 

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John