medium format for weddings: how do you deal with the square?

[sfcole]

I may attempt to use one of my 2 medium format systems for weddings and portraits. My question,

for those with the experience of using square format is, how do you translate the square to what

will most likely be the print size? Most customers won't want square format but something like

8x10 or 16x20. Is it simply a matter of estimation in the viewfinder? Or just always leaving room to

crop? Does anyone etch 4x5 proportion lines on the ground glass?

thanks

[greg jansen]

Use a thin black marker on the glass. You can always rub it off later. Be sure to mark vertical and horizontal markings. Some art stores carry a roll of super thin black tape, in different millimeter widths.

[richterjw]

The square gives you the ability to choose the vertical or horizontal composition upon printing. I am personally a fan of the square and think it should get more usage than it does. You could put a mask on your viewfinder, I suppose. Another advantage of 6x6 is the WLF, which loses some of its effectiveness with rectangular compositions because it's really awkward (near impossible) to use held sideways. But at the price of equipment these days, you could just as well invest in a 6x4.5 system. JR

[phil_hanson]

"Most customers won't want square format but something like 8x10 or 16x20."

 

A successful wedding photographer I knew did did well selling the square as a "point of difference." He did a brilliant job of composing to make best use of the square format, but would take others from which he could make horizontal or verticals, as required.

[jenny_jaques]

"Deal with the square"? I can never work out why this should be such a problem.

 

Firstly, the square is a completely neutral format, a great big canvas on which to work, and if you wish, you can crop it any way desired.

 

Secondly, a great many photographers "deal with it" by mastering the square format.

 

I have both 6x6 and 6x4.5 mags for the Hasselblad, and use 6x6 more than the others for absolutely everything. Quite often I will crop a portrait or whatever, just slightly, so that it is close to 9:10. I don't measure according to some formula set down by someone else. I just use my own sense of design. Doctrin sucks.

 

Be flexible.

 

Cheers, Jenny

[alan_higgins]

I agree with Jenny and Jeremy on this one.

 

The square is great to work with. I always work on the premise that what you see through the viewfinder is generally what you get. By this I mean that although the wedding party are the most important, you can always have a look at the surroundings too. The scenery can look great in the background of a square. Also, it gives you the option of offering 8 x 8 and 10 x 10 packages to your clients. What is important though is that you remember that it does take practise to know how your subjects will look if you do want to crop. Personally I like to have the extra bit of space to play with as opposed to 35 mm

 

Alan

[Ed_Ingold]

In "the Day" (50's and 60's), it was customary to use a pen to inscribe a grid on the screen for 5x7 inch proportions, which is the "skinniest" common format for wedding photos. If the composition fits in a 5x7 frame, an 8x10 is a given. These ink lines were often crude and hard to see, but it got the job done.

 

More recently, I have availed myself of newer technology. I use transparency film and a laser printer to make an overlay which snaps inside the frame of the (Hasselblad) screen and can be taped at the edges. The lines are very clear, thin (0.25 pt) and accurate (0.5 mm or better). Unlike with pens, there is no danger of scratching the plastic screen.

[russ_britt3]

I always sold square prints, no one else in town had 10X10 albums.....

[User_502260]

I solved the problem by having more than one format. I use Bronica 6X45, 6X6 and 6X7 formats. I seem to gravitate toward the 6X6 as a good compromise. The negative is so large that if you are in doubt about how the final print will be made, just step back a little and do your cropping later. I suppose I could get a 6X45 back for either the 6X6 or 6X7 camera so I could change backs to go back and forth. There are also focusing screens for the 6X6 cameras which show 6X45 frame lines both horizontally and vertically.

[btmuir]

I love the square and find it a great challenge. I guess yes, you can shoot a little wide

and crop later and suspect this would be the best approach for wedding/event work.

 

Anyway, my hat is off to you for having the fortitude to shoot a wedding with manual

focus, film and the challenges the reduced dof will add.

 

Best of luck.

[erik scanhancer]

Compose in the square as good as you can and your customers will probably not want

you to crop anything out. That's how I always deal with it. And if the composition

allows, you can always decide to crop afterwards. But don't bother at shooting time.

Square is great for people/groups. Here is a sample of how I deal with square

composition:

 

http://www.scanhancer.com/index.php?art=23&men=10

[Ed_Ingold]

People who like square prints are a tiny (but oddly vocal) minority and frames and mats may be hard to find. If you compose an head-and-shoulders portrait or a group photo to a square, it's often hard to crop to an 8x10 without cutting off ears or elbows. Composition is best done in the viewfinder. That's why we line our viewing screens.

[fotografz]

Mats and frames and square proofs for that matter are NOT hard to find. The wedding industry in past made sure of that. I frequently even crop 35mm digital to a

square. When I shoot square, I just proof square.

 

The wedding album company I use has a wide range of square mat sizes plus folios for sq. proofs and CD inserts. Their 10"X10" albums are still the most widely used

and all the pages are square for the mat inserts that can be 10X10, 8X10, 7X10 and so on. The books have to be square since they have to accomidate a landscape or

portrait oriented 8X10 print ... so the biggest print you can insert is 10X10 square.

 

Composing is pretty easy ... compose for the square but leave a bit of breathing room around so you can crop a 8X10 if that is what the client wants.

[wai_leong_lee]

Actually, using a square is so relaxing. One can step out a bit if one wants to leave room to crop.

[mark_e2]

I agree with "keep the square." I did this and my weddings were (and still are) unique. 10x10 is the way to go. For albums and folios, check out http://www.artleather.com/ .