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which lightmeter


david_eyre

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I posted a question a few weeks ago regarding my rangefinder leica which regarded it's age. I recieved

several helpful answers back giving me a date of approx 1949. The model was pointed out to be possibly

either the IIIc or IIIf. It has a hotshoe plate on the camera itself.

 

Here's my question: I've got the option of buying a Leica MR4 Lightmeter...will it be useable on my

rangefinder leica? I presume the hotshoe fitting on the base of the lightmeter will fit my camera's hotshoe,

but will it work as a light meter? Many thanks David.

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Hi David the accessory shoe in your IIIc is not a hot shoe version but the standart is the same. The MR4 is designed for the M type Leica

not the SM. The best lightmeter to fit would be a Voigtlander VR

check Steven Gandy's Cameraquest site.

Manfred

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The Leicameters will fit on M Leicas only. Screw-mount Leicas have a speed dial which rotates when cocking and releasing the shutter, the M Leicas have a stationary dial with a coupling slot for the Leicameter.

 

You can use virtually any lightmeter which accepts available batteries, i.e. avoid lightmeters which need mercury cells. I am not sure whether a lightmeter mounted on the hot shoe is very handy, I prefer handheld lightmeters.

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"i.e. avoid lightmeters which need mercury cells."

 

David,

 

If you do find a good deal on a light meter that does take mercury cells, you can get the voltage adjusted to take silver oxide batteries at any decent camera repair shop. I just had my Gossen Luna Pro done for 60 USD, and it works just fine.

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I have a Gossen digiflash. Tiny meter that works. But I think it is a bit too plasticky to justify the price.

 

I also bought a Gossen Lunasix on eBay for 25 euros. It takes mercury cells, but I also found a solution with a battery adapter:

 

http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/PDFs/batt-adapt-US.pdf

 

Both meters give the same values, but differ quite a bit from my Nikon FM and FE. You will have to shoot a few rolls of slide film before you will arrive at the correct exposure for your Leica.

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I have the second version of the Voigtlander meter and it is fine. Actually I love it. The only flaw is that the ISO value cannot be locked in position, so you need to watch it. At least on my sample it moves quite easily.
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I agree that the Voigtlander meters are the best and look good on the old leicas (you can get them in chrome or black I think). I also have an old leica selenium meter about the same size that works and clips on the the accessory shoe, but the Voigtlander is more accurate, easier to use, and looks better too.
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The old Weston selenium meters were very good and did not require a battery. George at Quality Light Metric replaced the cell on my Master IV and calibrated it. While they are not as sensitive as the newer meters they work just fine in most circumstances. George does excellent work and he also repaired my MR-4.
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The Leicameter MR4 is a good tool. The real problem is the battery (PX625 mercury oxide 1,35 volt, longtime outlawed). The MR-9 adapter, made by Kanto and selled by Criscam or The Small Battery Company, don't fit with the Leicameter MR4. One solution is Weincell MRB625 1,35 volt zinc air battery, but is pricey. The PX625A 1,5 alkaline battery is good for negatives but is wrong for dias.

For me, the better solution is the SPX625 1,55 silver oxide batteries. Have the same dimensions of the original PX625 mercury oxide 1,35 volt and work very well with all types of film, properly changing the ASA setting.

However, if you have Leica IIIf and Leica M4, the best option is the Sekonic L208, because have both new and old scale of shutter speeds. This lightmeter fit with the accessory shoe on the camera and permit both incident or reflected light measurements.

 

Ciao.

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Another vote for the tiny Gossen Digisix or Digiflash. They may be plastic, but they're small enough it goes everywhere in my pocket along with my dog leash and other hardened objects and still works. I find the Leica meter MR4s to be a little bulky for everyday use.
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Three nice things about Digisix:

 

1 drop em and they're too light to break

2 flat...easily pocketable (cord around neck)

3 very accurate

 

One bad thing about Digisix:

 

It insists on telling the time etc...so if you press the wrong button you wind up cycling through various functions...wish that stuff could be killed.

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What's irksome about my Digiflash is that the default calibration is way off. After comparing with my Nikons and the f16 rule I figured out that it indicates 1 1/3th of a stop too much, underexposing severly.

 

With the corrected value it is ok though, tested with a calibrated light source.

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