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Moving from 35mm to MF, how/where to get film prints/developed


scott_buckler

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I?m a long time 35mm shooter and I would like to get into MF to slow myself

down. Problem being coming from 35mm I am spoiled when it come to printing and

developing and I am a little intimidated at the prospect of how or who will

print and develop my MF film. I live in Los Angeles, Calif. so I should be able

to find someplace that can do it for me.

 

I though before I take the leap and buy an MF camera I would ask around and get

some advice, I do mostly color landscape and nature photography although I do

plan on doing some B/W.

 

I am also debating between something in 120/220 like a Mamiya 645 Vs 4x5 view

camera although the view camera might be too much of a leap from the

convenience of 35mm.

 

Thank you for your help,

Scott

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"I live in Los Angeles, Calif. so I should be able to find someplace that can do it for me."

 

Google for A&I and BowHaus.

 

Bypass the labs altogether for B&W. Develop, scan, and print yourself; you'll be much happier with the results.

 

Look into 6x7 SLR's like the Mamiya RB67 and RZ67. The Pentax 67 is excellent as well. You can treat the Pentax almost like huge 35mm SLR (but this isn't necessarily a good thing.)

 

I don't like 645. The primary reason for switching from 35mm and into 120 roll film camera is for the increased film area. 645 gives up too much.

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I just bought an old Agfa 6x9 camera, which has the same proportions as 35mm. I have been in MF for several years and have just begun working in LF. Both will definitely slow you down. Also, I don't know if you shoot primarily color or b/w, but if b/w then you ought to consider developing your own film. You can get set up for this for around $50 or so; printing pictures however is a different matter. JR
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Old folders may not be a bad idea, but is probably not a good first camera. They can be finicky. The optics and rigidity are not going to be as good as something more modern, say from the 60's forward. A goodly number of these won't have coupled rangefinders, or simply be scale focusing.

 

If you want to go this route, check with Jurgen at certo6.com. Anything that's almost 80 years old is going to need a complete overhaul, and at the very least new bellows. No exceptions.

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For developing, ask at the photo store (chain or independent) at any strip mall. Some do, some don't. Prices are all over the map. Walmart is good (they use Duanes) and cheap but turnaround is slow.

 

I agree with Robert, a folder is too fiddly for a first MF camera and the results will not properly impress you with the capabilities of the format. Go with a rigid box, SLR, TLR, or rangefinder.

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I'd recommend that you not get a 67 SLR for your first MF camera. They are too big and heavy for your first foray into MF. Try either a 645 SLR or a TLR. The 645 neg is about 2.7x the area of a 35mm neg. It's a huge difference. The jump from 645 to 67 about 1.4x improvement. So the difference between 35mm and 645 is greater than the difference between 645 and 67.
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Thanks for all the replies!

 

Can I presume that on a cost level of 120/220 film and printing will be much less than 4x5?

 

A&I is not too far from where I work so I will be checking them out and the other labs that have been mentioned.

 

I do plan on setting up a darkroom for B/W however I will need a lab for color or when I am just too lazy to develop my own stuff.

 

The view camera I am considering is an excellent condition Omega D in great working condition however I am leaning more in the direction of the 120 roll film from a convenience and economic considerations.

 

Thanks again, I am learning so much more about MF from all of you than I ever imagined!

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There's lots of place in LA/OC. Samy's and Calumet ought ot be able to handle it too. Down here in OC, I use Irvine Pro Photo.

 

A Mamiya 645 would be a fine place to start. I'm having a ball with my 645Pro rig. It does slow you down. So far I've had Samy's or Pro Photo develop all my film, then I scan & go digital from there. I'm about set up to do all my own B&W developing & leave the color to the labs.

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"Can I presume that on a cost level of 120/220 film and printing will be much less than 4x5?"

 

I shoot 120 and 4x5. The former is not cheaper, it's more expensive, but that is because I shoot more of it. With 4x5, one tends to take much fewer shots. But of course, this would not be true of someone who is as selective with 120 as people tend to be with 4x5.

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