"traditional" lighting

[jena27]

While I consider myself a primarily outdoor, "natural" light shooter, I have

quite a few weddings later this year where I know I am going to have to do the

in-church family portraits. I have been using either a basic softbox (smallish,

with my sb-800) or bounce-flash or a flash bracket for this task up to this

point. I have recently been considering upgrading my equipment for this. Can I

just put both of my sb-800s on stands with umbrellas radio triggered? Is this

an appropriate solution, or is there a better one? Keep in mind that I want to

move very quickly through this part of the day as I just do the traditional

formals because almost every couple wants some form of them. Thus, I want to

keep it simple, but any recommendations are appreciated.

[jeffrey_blake_adams]

You can add light with strobes. Why not? I would suggest an assistant so they can break em down and bring em to the reception for you. I have placed them in the balcony, which provides a nice fill, and eliminates worry fo any glasses or hot spots, back that far I don't bother w the umbrellas, just bare bulb aimed across each other. Measure and test to taste. J

[l_e]

Yup, get some pocket wizards, a couple of flashes, stands, and umbrellas.

[jefftebbetts]

I use the SB800's with pocket wizards and umbrellas on light stands for my formals. Plenty of power and easy to carry and setup. Manual on camera and manual on flash. Nice and easy.

 

Just a note...spend the money and invest in radio triggers. DO NOT rely on CLS

 

Jeff

[jena27]

Yep, I've got the PWs already, just making sure I'll have enough power out of the 800s without having to buy higher powered strobes. Thank you all.

[marlboro_smith]

Agree with Jeff.

 

One bounce flash umbrella on a light stand. I use a manual vivitar 285(Vivitar has just come out with a new one for $99, same as the workhorse of the 80's with updated battery power and only 6v actualion instead of 260v.

 

I've always used 16 guage lamp cord connected to the pc output on my camera. Actually I have a hot shoe mounted pc conection that is solid and never falls off.

 

Never like complications of radio controls or anything like that. Its very cheap and it works great.

 

this is a workhorse event, not something for a spread in American Photo magazine.

[jena27]

Even for group shots on the church? Just one? that doesn't seem like it will pack enough punch.

[marlboro_smith]

OH, no....

 

The vivitar's have a guide number of about 140. I use two on lightstands about 12 feet apart, and often use a light box too. A light box is a box I built connected to a set of 4 light sockets. I put 4 150 watt 6000 degree Kelvin bulbs in it. It would add additional light to the subject, gets hotter than hades; always worry I'll blow a circuit at the church with the 600 watt bulbs.

 

No, just one on bounce flash for the guy pre wedding, and the girl pre weddings, and the romantics and portraits at the reception, with background.

 

One flash on my camera/flash handle thingy. Important to have one of those that looks hunky so you can be seen as different than all the rest of the wedding photog wannabees with their Cannon EOS 3D Mark 22's or their 35,000 buck hassie digitals which you wish you had the money to buy!

 

Eric

[pete_s.]

Jennie, I think what you need depends on how big the group is, if the church have light or dark walls and what image quality you are willing to accept (iso, dof, shutter drag).

 

I think your best bet would be to use your speedlights when possible but have two monolights and some extension cord available when the conditions warrant it. Aliens Bees seems a popular budget choice in the US. The AB800 has 320 Ws and an SB800 equals around 65 Ws so you get about 2.5 more stops from the monolights while still having a shorter recycling time (1 sec).

 

You would use the same stands, umbrellas and PWs with either so it's only some minor additions needed to use the speedlights (umbrella adapter and shoe mount). I would go for silver umbrellas with groups.

 

Good luck,

 

Peter

[picturesque]

Whether you can use the SB800s is dependent upon what ISO and aperture you are comfortable using for the formals. If you like to use ISO 100, they definitely will be underpowered, especially if you try to use modifiers on them. I would say ISO 400 at least, and maybe f5.6 would allow you the working room and coverage needed. Either both into a large umbrella or one on each side full blast into an umbrella each.

 

I use one main flash and the on-camera as fill. Two flashes means twice the amount of set-up, especially if you need to switch one off the camera and can't set things up in advance. I leave my on-camera flash on the camera and use it as fill, and I set up my main flash before the ceremony starts. It is basically my Sunpak 120J, pre made up on a stand adapter, with wireless receiver already in place. I whip it onto a compact stand and I am ready to go. I don't use an umbrella because I subscribe to the theory that placed back from a group and with judicious dragging of shutter, the light is not so harsh. Plus I use flashes with parabolic reflectors, which has a softer fall off and allows feathering. I use umbrellas for other parts of the day, but not for the family group formals, particularly in dark churches and the like. Plus my flashes, compact stands and compact umbrellas fit in my case and in a duffel bag, doing multiple duty at various parts of the day. I work alone, so I need to be fast and organized when it comes to gear.

 

Any number of battery powered, but higher powered flashes can be used if you want more power. Norman 200 or 400B, Lumedynes, and even Q flashes will give you more muscle yet not dictate a cord. So the first question is--what ISO and apertures do you need?

[pclancy]

Nadine - when you say, "judicious dragging..." can you elaborate on your camera settings? Thanks

[markonestudios]

If you hadn't already, check out the strobist as well for some great, practical tips... It's amazing what you can achieve with a couple of off-camera flashes and radio triggers, even for larger group portraits in low ambient light.

[picturesque]

Patrick--what I mean is enough shutter drag that you see elements of the background. No black or dark backgrounds, in other words.

[pclancy]

Nadine, I was just curious what camera settings you use. Shutter speed, Apature. I realize it varies per the venue but what do you aim for in the "dragging the shutter" scenario.

[jena27]

Nadine...you have the setup I am most certainly looking for. I am quite comfortable with highere ISOs, 400 to even 800 if necessary...and I am a "pro" of dragging, so with a combonation of the two, I am confident now that I can achieve what i need to achieve. The only difference is that I want to use an aperture with minimal depth of field for the circumstances, so how would you deal with say, two rows of family members?

[picturesque]

Jennie--I would shoot at about f5.6 with the focal lengths closer to normal--maybe 35mm to 50mm. I would maybe go f4 for the wider angles. This is on a full frame camera. A crop sensor camera 'gives' you about a stop and a third "more" DOF. Also depends how close the rows are. I'd consult a DOF table like DOF Master. I always go for that margin of error, though. Why do you want to use the wider apertures? Most people want to see altar detail, so more DOF is fine.

 

Patrick--very hard to say since ambient light varies so much. In dimmer churches, I generally go ISO 400 f5.6 or f8 at about 1/15-1/30. Slower if it is darker. Faster if it is pretty light, such as outdoor light striking the altar area, or unavoidable overhead spots or something of that nature. I have gone as slow as 1/8, but you have to be careful about getting enough flash on your subjects to truly freeze motion and also that you aren't getting close to the ambient in EV.