20D power switch and the quick dial wheel

[myrjola]

Yesterday, I noticed that my venerable 20D seems to have developed a small

malfunction. When I turned it on as usual (power switch to the usual topmost, or

L, / or whatever one wants to call it - position) and tried to change aperture

in manual mode, the quick dial wheel did absolutely nothing. A quick test

revealed that the wheel itself was working, as menus etc. still reacted to

rotating it. However, it now works just like the power switch would be in the

"On" position, even though it's at the position where the wheel should work also

while shooting. I also noticed that touching the power switch gently while

rotating the wheel makes the wheel to work until I lift off my finger from the

power switch, which might indicate some kind of worn contact.

 

So, I'm wondering whether anybody has encountered the same issue with his/her

20D? If so, is there some easy and safe DIY fix for it, or did the camera need

service? In case of service, what kind of expenses are we talking about? The

issue is not truly crippling, but nonetheless slightly annoying, so I'd want to

eventually get rid of it and I'm interested to know what my options are. (Well,

they are "live with it", "get it serviced" and "upgrade to a new body", but

making decisions is nicer when there's some information :)

[mendel_leisk]

I think you've nailed it in the last sentence of your first paragraph. Sorry, no ideas what the repair would cost, but good luck.

 

In case Canon is reading, I think they should ditch this aperture-lock-out "feature": it's really counter-intuitive, eternally confounding and even less popular than the direct print button.

[pjmeade]

Mine is 3 years old and has developed some minor faults, but thankfully, not that one.

 

Getting a 40D does look like a top option, but it would be heart rending to part with the 20D (felt that way when I ditched my Peugeot 205).

[myrjola]

I wondered whether the problem could be caused by some dirt below the power switch, so I took a piece of thread and guided it between the power switch, tugging it gently back and forth, a bit like flossing teeth. Now only pushing the power switch gently and then leaving it alone is enough to keep the wheel working as long as I keep the switch in the "L" position, so that might be a partial explanation for the issue.

 

The current state of the switch is still not quite perfect, but clearly an improvement, so I guess I'll live with it for now and check about the service costs at some time when I know I won't be needing the camera much (or sooner if the fault gets worse, of course).

 

(Peter, I agree that it would be unpleasant to part with the 20D; it's been my first DSLR and even though I suppose it's only a tool, I have many warm and fuzzy memories of using it. I suppose that even when I eventually upgrade, I'll keep it as an emergency backup as long as it functions at all)

[btmuir]

I was shooting in the studio 2 summers ago and some sweat dripped into my control wheel

and *AF selector button (no I wasn't even using hot lights).

 

I sprayed a small burst of canned air in there and after it dried out it was fine but it was

making a gritty sound when I rotated the wheel before it dried out.

 

All is fine at the moment and I'm still shooting event work with it.