40D users..like to share your camera set ups?

[steven_moseley1]

Hi,

 

I just have my first serious DSLR..the 40D. I am currently just experimenting

and trying to get to grips with the camera.

 

Could users share their own personal camera set-ups they use?

 

I will be shooting mainly outdoors, pictorial work, urban landscape, macro

etc..no action, or sport or people. I am assuming lowering the contrast setting

is a good idea for exposures..but what setting to use? and do you have

different settings for working in JPEG & RAW.

 

cheers Steve.M.

[scherbi]

I shoot in RAW, so I don't bother with the Picture Styles on the camera, as I can tweak all of that equally well or better after I download the shots to the computer.

 

The C1, C2, C3 mode knob settings are useful if you want to be able to quickly move between certain settings. For example, You might have C1 set up for macro, with ISO100 and Tv at 1/125, and C2 setup for landscape mode with ISO 400 and Av at f/11. Then you can quickly move between them. If you are shooting JPG, you can have picture styles associated with C1, C2 and C3 as well. But you said "no action" so it sounds like you'll normally have the time to make these changes in the normal way.

 

I think you'll need to get out there and get shooting to find out what settings work for you. And then decide if you want presets for them.

 

Good luck!

[jason_hall4]

Like Bill I shoot RAW so I don't use the picture styles. Mine is set to standard. To me shooting RAW + JPEG is just a wast of card space. I process in Lightroom which make RAW as easy as JPEGs.

 

The C1 C2 & C3 are great, however if you make an adjust to the setting while in one of these custom modes and the camera powers down from inactivity, the settings will all go to default. So if you have the mode set to be 200 ISO and on the fly you set it to 100 ISO, the camera will go back to 200 ISO when it "wakes up" from the "sleep mode" when you bump the shutter button. For that was a deal breaker, but there is a way around it, and that is for those modes you need to set it to not power off automaticly. But then you must be sure to turn off the camera. Personally I am not good at that.

 

Most folks like to use the center focus point only. I like to set the custom functions so that you can use the joy stick(just above the round thumb wheel) to select different focus points on the fly. I love this feature and if you want to change to auto select then you hit the button on the top right(the one normally used to select focus points). That button will now simply activate auto select while the joystick allows you to select any specific point with a single click. It takes a little to get used to it and to really get good with it. But for what I do (weddings and events) it is an excellent tool. CF 3 under C. Fn III

 

Set it so that the camera will not fire if no memory card is in it. This will save you some heart ache.

 

I don't use the highlight priority to much, I have it on my custom menu to get to quickly if I do need it. It limits your ISO range to much.

 

I like to use 1/3 stop exposure adjustments instead of 1/2. And I like to use the 1/3 stop ISO settings. CF 1&2 C. Fn I

 

I find the saftey shift for Av and Tv mode wonderful. CF 6 Under C Fn. I

 

I also have the auto rotate set for the computer only and not the Camera LCD so that the image will be larger on the LCD. But I want the image to be roatated in the computer.

 

Also as Bill puts it, you just have to shoot and shoot some more.

 

Jason

[photo_dark]

Interesting about mapping the focus points... I could see that being a huge benefit. Nothing is worse than realizing after the fact that you missed a shot because of focus issues. When shooting portraits, I'm finding I use the center point only about 75% of the time anyways these days.

[PuppyDigs]

F8 and be there!

[victor_kunkel2]

Roger that...what Puppy Face said. I went to a 40D in December and found that it was best for me to start with the Green Zone and then download and process a new shots. Remember, you need to learn not only a new camera but the software too. Anyway, a few days later I went to P and spot metering, and adjust the size of the image as needed using that particular menu. Much of what I do only requires small jpegs, but I'll go big if I need a larger enlargement. It is all going to depend on what you need and in my experience, just using the camera will help you to get there. There are a lot of options on the camera, and since everyone is diffrent, it would be good to just practice to see what works for you.

[KenPapai]

Raw is Raw is Raw on the 40D.

 

My setup revolves only around local date/time and other factors that determine, moment to moment which mode I shoot in. Turn OFF auto ISO. It's silly and pointless and detracts from creativity (or rather "control") when you shoot in Tv and Av modes.

[jason_hall4]

>>>"Raw is Raw is Raw on the 40D."<<< Ken

 

Where did that come from?

 

Jason

[vadtel]

Mostly JPEG to save time on postprocessing. Also I lowered contrast, saturation and sharpness. Focus points through multi controller. And use SET to swich between RAW-JPEG when needed.

[jeret_slack]

Jpeg.. I was a big raw person.. But when you shoot a wedding and end up with 5000 photos It takes a while to dump them onto your hard drive.. If you are new to this shoot raw.. but once you are ok with your settings and switch to jpg... DON"T let the camera do any sharpening..

[david_wu6]

Just curious, why would one get a 40D or any dlsr to shoot P mode and JPEG?

[vadtel]

No jeret no me said about P mode - Arthur Morris did some days at popphoto, I beleive. You may see the results at http://www.birdsasart.com/

But you are right David - Arthur do it all with 1D bodies!

[marcomariano]

>>Just curious, why would one get a 40D or any dlsr to shoot P mode and JPEG?<< david

 

is your main reason to get 40D/dslr is to shoot raw? you can shoot raw using G9.

 

i got 40D/dslr for few reasons. fast & IQ specialy at hi iso's.

 

about the topic: my mode of shooting is M or Av only. jpeg only for fast processing.

[mendel_leisk]

I see nothing wrong with shooting in P mode: letting the camera choosing aperture and shutter speed. If you want to use autoexposure, and it's not a crime, and you don't have an aperture or shutter speed preference, and the light is reasonable and balanced, I'd say P is the way to go. If you're not happy with the results you dial in some exposure compensation, or switch to Manual.

 

I would stick with Raw though, maybe both Raw and Jpeg if it's really hard to let go.

 

Basic settings? I always try to leave my camera in a state that gives me the best odds of getting a picture at a moments notice. That would include:

 

1) Auto Exposure in P mode ;)

 

2)ISO 400 (a decent balance with little increase in noise. I can always adjust if warranted, but I find it a good start point)

 

3) One Shot (as opposed to timer or burst. Some people prefer burst, depends on your style. Just something to consider.)

 

4) Center focus point only (just my pref.)

 

5) Focus on "*" button on the back (Custom Function 4 set to 1)

 

6) Evaluative Metering mode (a decent balance for majority of shots)

 

7) minus 1/3 stop exposure compensation (Juries out on this, but works most of the time for me)

 

8) Power swith in hockey stick postition (so nothing is locked out, exposure comp. and aperture adjust. for 2)

 

9) Charged battery

 

10) Card with some room and/or a spare card

 

11) Manual exposure settings left on something middle of the road.

 

12) Noise reduction for long exposure on (one of the CF's)

 

13) My normal zoom mounted