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Balda Baldix with film stucked in it....


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I have acquired a Balda Baldix from ebay with a film stucked in it. I can't

seem to pull up the film advance to release the film. I can see that there is

one little screw missing by the film advance knob. I guess the previous owner

tried to fix it himself. I would like to have it a go myself if anybody out

there can help me, otherwise I'll take it to a repairman. Also the rangefinder

is a bit off vertically.

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You can sometimes get stuck film out by opening the camera in a changing bag. This is a bag made of lightproof material with two elasticated holes so it looks like some strange pair of pants. If you put 'changing bag' into ebay search and choose the photographic ones you can see they are available fairly cheaply. An alternative is a dark room but it is surprising how hard it is to keep light out.

 

Good luck.

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Jessica - yes, the winder knob must be pulled up, and clear the film 'tray' so that an exposed film can be removed.

 

First, make sure you have pulled the winder knob up all the way: the clearances are tiny and the film chamber will remain locked if there's any misalignment, etc.

 

If that doesn't work, there's enough space between the top of the film spool and the camera body to insert a small electrician's screwdriver and lever up the spiggot that a) winds the film and b) locks the spool in the film 'chamber'. The film chamber should then tilt out to 'eject' the spool.

 

To 'repair' the winder, the screw (LH thread I believe) in the centre of the winder knob can be removed and any underlying screws tightened. This centre screw is tight, and requires a 'sharp' broad screwdriver and firm hands to avoid slipping and 'screwing-up!' Care should be taken not to misalign the wind knob in re-assembly, since there's a post underneath it which sets the wind-on spacing: get this wrong and you may have to fiddle to line it up again.

 

The usual comments apply: if you do a 'self-repair' keep notes on each step so that you can put everything back together correctly. If you are not sure about this, or if the fix doesn't work, then the problem is possibly best sorted by a repair-person.

 

Rangefinder re-alignment is not difficult, but requires a delicate touch and a tiny jeweller's screwdriver (two IIRC) - adjustment is via the chrome screw to the right of the viewfinder. Be careful though, this can make matters worse if you haven't the patience and dexterity required. Minor vertical mis-alignment is usually something to "live with".

 

However, I will say that if the camera is *not* in top condition and if the lens fitted is *anything other than* a Schneider or Rodenstock I'd be inclined to put it in a display case. The Baltar and other lenses are not as good as Schneider and Rodenstocks in my opinion (but good enough for smallish prints/scans), making the camera worth a fraction of one with the better lenses - hence, possibly not 'economical' to repair. If by chance you have a Tessar lens, they are rare and valuable on this camera.

 

It's a while since I disassembled a Baldax, so if using these notes please proceed with caution. AC

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You're welcome. I'm glad you fixed the winder; hopefully you can get a film through it now.

 

Have you worked out how to set/use the frame counter? The counter and wind-on should synchronise, making it unnecessary to use the red window once a film is loaded. Sometimes this 'goes wrong', even after a repair, and may require re-repair :-(

 

Rangefinder adjusting screws often have a lock-nut, and it will almost inevitably be concentric with the adjuster. This can conspire to make r/f adjustment a tricky three-handed operation! Worse, there is often a dab of paint (etc) to lock the threads. Either way, they can be really stiff and thus need extra 'muscle' and extra care ...

 

If you like this camera (and they are indeed rather likeable) look for one with a Schneider or Rodenstock lens (or Tessar as described previously): you'll find these lenses much sharper, especially at f8-16. All of these lenses (inc. the Baltar) benefit from a hood (40.5mm thread) which is reasonably easy to find. If shooting B+W a medium or dark yellow filter helps to increase image contrast making the images appear to be sharper.

 

[Mr C... Wow! Normally I get "Oi!" - Thank you kindly m'am].

 

AC

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