Antarctica in December

[kiloromeo]

Going on a 2 week expeditionary cruise from Chile to Antarctica and several

remote islands enroute in December. I have a 20D with Canon lenses 10-22, 17-55,

70-300DO, 100Macro, 580ex, 430ex, Powershot G7, waterproof housing for G7, Sony

Handycam HC90. I would like to get a hard waterproof case for all of it. I would

also like to have the case be a carry-on. I am willing to reduce the DSLR

equipment to essentials in order to do it. I want the case to offer good padding

as well.

 

 

A friend who went on a similar trip said to bring the longest possible lens, so

the stubby DO lens is definitely coming. I'm thinking the 17-55 and no flashes

also, for space economy. I really hate to leave the 10-22 home, but I will in

order to hand carry my equipment. Goodbye vast panoramas of Antarctica with

stuff in the foreground:-[ I'm not even thinking about taking the Macro.

 

I have good polarizers for my lenses, but no IR filters.

 

I have several tripods but I'm thinking of just taking a monopod, again, to save

space. I doubt I will be anywhere stable enough for time exposures anyhow.

 

I'm also thinking about some weather protection for the DSLR, but not a full

blown housing, something like a ewa-marine cz100 or something like that.

 

I am planning on taking just one camera, one lens when/if we go ashore in the

little rubber boats. The waterproof G7 is for when things seem too dicey for

DSLR, and as a backup.

 

Any ideas? Any tips? I'd say that my budget is around $300 for the case.

Thanks.

[garrett_cotham]

I'll be your caddy if you pay my way with you. Then you can bring whatever you want! :)

 

seriously...i will...

[zml]

Pelican 1520. Wheeled case that will fit all your stuff (get the model with dividers and add the lid pocket.)It's a legal carry-on on US airlines.

 

 

Most DLSR rain covers are fiddly and/or meant to be used while the camera is mounted on a tripod, so a big ziplock bag (the one with handles) may be all you'll ever need.

[m_barbu1]

Bring air-activated hand warmers and rubber bands to help keep your equipment warm.

[dan_hall4]

International luggage requirements may vary so check into that. For carrying the gear, have you considered a high quality photography backpack. The Lowepro Dryzone is fully waterproof and could be carried as checked luggage. That would be something worth looking at perhaps. There are about 3 different models on B&H. Check out the links below. I would take a light weight tripod as well as the monopod. Take some shower caps for the camera and a small lightweight waterproof bag to keep it in when not in use. I would want a high quality Polarizer and ND. I would slam my pecker in a door before I would leave the 10-22 behind.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/251100-REG/Lowepro_2008020_DryZone_200_Backpack_Gray_.html

 

https://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?memberId=12500226&productId=39177487

[kiloromeo]

Thanks folks, good tips in just minutes. What a forum!

Sorry Garrett we can barely afford to haul ourselves on this trip.

I should have this down to a science by December with the quality and quantity of tips.

Yeah, leaving the 10-22 home would especially kill me because it is the newest lens, upgraded from a Tamron 11-18, a few months ago.

I have a Tamrac backpack that fits the DSLR stuff but no more. Not as protective as a hard case and not waterproof, but weather resistant.

That Pelican 1520 looks quite nice, but I guess I'll have to check with the South American airline to see if it is OK to carry on.

Tripod too huh? OK, I'll give that one some thought.

The freezer bag trick sounds good too.

P.S. Garret my 17-55 is about the sharpest lens in my bag, but it is the same size as the 70-300DO. Not too long but fat.

[mark_chappell]

<I>Bring air-activated hand warmers and rubber bands to help keep your equipment

warm.</i><P>

 

December is summer in the southern hemisphere and especially along the Antarctic

Peninsula (the banana belt of the Antarctic continent), it's not going to be especially cold.

Expect temperatures averaging about zero C (right around freezing). In four summer

seasons at Palmer Station (along the Peninsula), I never experienced any temperatures

colder than about -10 C (maybe 15-18 F) and that was very unusual. It can be T-shirt

weather if the sun is out and the wind isn't blowing. You do have to be prepared for

SUDDEN weather changes, wind, rain/snow, and especially wave splashes when traveling

in small boats.

[kin_lau]

If you haven't yet, please read the article at Luminous Landscape http://www.luminous-landscape.com/locations/antarctica.shtml

 

If you don't have room in the case for the 10-22, stick it in your pocket.

[kiloromeo]

Thanks again,

Mark-Yeah summertime is what I thought too. My concerns are more for water than temps, good to hear it from you though.

Kin-great site.

[m_barbu1]

<p><i>Expect temperatures averaging about zero C</i></p><p>Isn't that the minimum operating temperature for the EOS 20D? Currently, factoring windchill, it's -2.8°C at Palmer Station.</p>

[mark_chappell]

<I>Isn't that the minimum operating temperature for the EOS 20D? Currently, factoring

windchill, it's -2.8?C at Palmer Station.</i><P>

 

All Canon, Nikon, etc. DSLRS will work fine at considerably colder temperatures. Check <A

HREF="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00OUBb">this recent

thread.</a> Incidentally, wind chill is largely irrelevant for a camera; it is an index of the

rate of heat loss from a person, not how cold something will get.

[m_barbu1]

<p><i>All Canon, Nikon, etc. DSLRS will work fine at considerably colder temperatures.</i></p><p>Actually, doesn't that thread list a number of problems that arise in sub-zero temperatures? Sure, the camera <i>mostly</i> works, but not as it does in zero or above. </p><p><i>Incidentally, wind chill is largely irrelevant for a camera; it is an index of the rate of heat loss from a person, not how cold something will get.</i></p><p>True; the index may not have a 1:1 correlation. However, wind certainly does play a role in further reducing temperatures in inanimate objects. If this weren't the case, all computers would be liquid cooled, instead of air cooled (to cite one of many examples).</p>

[michael_brant]

I took a similar trip in 2000 to the Antarctic Penninsula. While for the most part it will be warmer than you think, the weather changes can be severe. I found I didn't need as much waterproofing as I thought - the suggestions about the big zip lock bags was a very good one (I wish they had them when I went!). Just keeping the equipment dry from the ship to the zodiac to shore was all I needed. A rain/snow cover will help. Bringing the equipment in and out of the heated ship's interior will pose the usual challenge with fogging of lenses. Put them into a sealed bag before you bring them in.

 

I didn't have the hand warmers and did OK but they're not a bad idea either.

 

By all means bring the widest lens you have. When the weather cooperates, you will be visiting some of the most beautiful areas on Earth.

 

Telephoto will help, especially from the ship when traveling between destinations. You will have opportunities to shoot penguins swimming and on icebergs, Orcas, Porpoises, and a variety of pelagic sea birds. Shooting from a moving ship is a bit of a challenge but not too bad.

 

A monopod can also be used as a walking stick. You will be doing some rock climbing and traversing over snow and ice, I suspect.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-Mike

[kiloromeo]

Very helpful, thanks Mike.

[mark_chappell]

<I>Actually, doesn't that thread list a number of problems that arise in sub-zero

temperatures? Sure, the camera mostly works, but not as it does in zero or

above.</i><P>

 

At temperatures WELL below freezing a prolonged cold soak will eventually cause some

malfunctions (although most likely the battery will die first). The thread discussed

temperatures of considerably below 0 F (about - 18 C). It's highly unlikely that it would

get that cold on the Antarctic Peninsula coast in summer. I've used various DSLRs at 15-

20 F for hours on end with no problems whatever, other than decreased battery life.<P>

 

<I>However, wind certainly does play a role in further reducing temperatures in inanimate

objects</i><P>

 

Not true. All wind does is affect the rate of heat transfer by convection when an object is

at a different temperature than the surrounding fluid (gas or liquid). It does not affect

the final temperature attained, unless there is a strong radiant source (e.g., sunlight) or

sink (e.g., clear night sky) present. In those circumstances, wind tends to 'drive' an

object's temperature closer to air temperature than would otherwise be the case. Once

object temperature = air temperature, there's no more net heat transfer (and thus no

temperature change) regardless of wind speed.<P>

 

So for example, neglecting radiant sources/sinks for the moment, if you have an air

temperature of 5 C and a wind chill factor of -10 C and you place a cup of warm water in

these conditions, it will not freeze. It will just approach air temperature faster than if there

was no wind. Same with a camera: in those conditions it will eventually reach a

temperature of 5 C, wind or no wind. Thus wind cannot 'further reduce' temperatures

below air temperature.

[kiloromeo]

Mark- I'm guessing that the temperature of a camera malfunction is lower than that of my own. From experience I know that I will fold my tent and beat feet long before the the camera freezes. I am going to keep the extra batteries close to my heat core if that becomes a factor.

 

I went out with my waterproof G7 for a couple hours one cold day and when I pulled the camera out of the housing, upon return, it was still quite close to room temperature. I hadn't counted on that housing providing insulation, but I guess it is dead air in there, even if very little.

[mark_chappell]

<I>I'm guessing that the temperature of a camera malfunction is lower than that of my

own.</i><P>

 

That's generally been my experience also... but then, I'm a warm-adapted Californian. Extra

batteries (and CF cards) are a good idea for Antarctica, by the way. As is a backup camera

body if you can manage it.

[m_barbu1]

<p><i>...cup of warm water...</i></p><p>That's a good example; thanks!</p>

[Two23]

It was -24F this morning where I was out taking photos, before dawn. Real temp, not that windchill silliness. My D80 was working perfectly, other than a somewhat sluggish LCD read out. I'd assume Canon stuff would do the same.

 

Dan-

ROFL!!!

 

 

Kent in SD

[garrett_cotham]

Hey it never hurts to ask. You never know what might happen. Have a great time. If you change your mind though...

[eric_bradley]

I was there at this time last year ? it?s an amazing place and you will get great shots whatever gear you take. However, regardless of whether or not wind chill will affect your camera, it will certainly affect you. It was mostly absolutely freezing the whole 3 weeks I was there so take plenty of warm clothes and make sure you have spare batteries. I took a 20D with a 10-22, 24-105, 70-200 F4, a 400 DO and a 1.4x. The majority of landscape shots were shot with 24-105 and the majority of wildlife with 70-200 (you can get very close to penguins). Because you are on a boat for a large amount of time, it?s hard to get much foreground interest with very wide angle and I took very few shots with the 10-22. Having said that, the ones I did take made it worth while and you won?t want to be without it when you get up close to blue icebergs etc. You also get a lot of ice on the shoreline and I had a lot of fun with up-close wide-angle weird ice formations.

 

I almost always shoot handheld but decided to take a monopod for the big lens. On the boat, the weather was normally between a force 8 and 10 gale so it was pretty useless and I gave up. On the couple of days we did get mirror smooth water, I found the monopod to be a highly effective way of transferring the vibrations of the ship engines to the camera so again gave up. I didn?t even bother with it on shore as there is only so much you can take on a zodiac and I was already encumbered by a large camera bag and a life jacket. There was mostly a very large swell at all times and getting in and out of the boat was not always easy, especially with a rucksack weighing 10k+. You will also be shooting from the zodiac a lot of the time where handheld is the only option. If I went again, which I very much hope to do one day, I wouldn?t bother with a tripod or monopod. If you feel you really need the support for a big lens, I would go down the monopod harness route.

 

I took an InfraRed filter but I never used it as on a 20D, it needs long slow exposures and this wasn?t possible with the ship?s motion. On land, I never found a view that I felt needed it and to be honest, I forgot all about it after a while. I didn?t take a waterproof bag but just wrapped my bag in a plastic bin liner when I was on a zodiac. I had a separate plastic bag for the camera but I would seriously recommend getting some sort of additional water protection. My 20D seized up on a zodiac cruise in particularly miserable conditions one afternoon. When back on the boat, I tried swapping the battery but heard a fizzing noise coming from the camera. Not good. I realised that I had water in the battery compartment (enough to see, and rather scary) and was somewhat distraught as I was only half way through the trip with only a measly Powershot S80 as backup. I dried the camera off and left the compartment open overnight and was mightily relieved when it started working again in the morning. Just about everyone on board suffered camera malfunction at some point or other and most were OK after they dried out a day or two later. So, you definitely need to take some sort of water protection and you definitely need a backup camera. You will get wet on a zodiac. At one point, in rough seas and at the front of the boat, it was like having a freezing cold bucket of very salty water tipped right over my head continuously for about 45 minutes. I was miserable and freezing, but the camera survived that one! Anyway, what?s the point in taking a camera if you don?t use it? It?s an amazing place and the weather brought home to me what a wild and unforgiving place this really is. Read Shackleton?s ?South? before you go, then you?ll know what hardship is! Have fun.

[eric_bradley]

Meant to add that I also had a close-up filter but found little or no use for macro.

[mark_chappell]

<I> (you can get very close to penguins). </i><P>

 

Technically, according to US laws pertaining to the Antarctic Conservation Treaty, you are

not supposed to disturb wildlife without a permit, so one should not approach penguins to

the point they are disturbed. I did scientific work on Adelie penguins for 4 summers, and

most Adelies, if people approach them closer than maybe 5 meters, begin to show

behavioral signs of disturbance (standing up, erect crest, wing-waving, etc.). Other

workers did heart-rate telemetry studies revealing that many penguins show increases in

heart rate (indicating some anxiety, it is thought) when they see people much farther away

than that. They may not move away if approached, especially if on a nest, but that

doesn't mean you're not bothering them. So please, out of respect for the birds, use a

longish lens and don't get too close. <P>

 

Of course, some individual penguins are quite curious and will approach people, especially

if one stands still. I've had them walk up and nibble my bootlaces, clothing, etc. I believe

that's technically/legally OK.<P>

 

I'm most familiar with US laws about Antarctic wildlife, but other Treaty signatory nations

are supposed to (and do, as far as I know) have similar laws pertaining to their citizens.

[eric_bradley]

Mark, you are absolutely correct. I seem to recall that 5 meters is the recommended maximum distance and that you should never cause a change in animal behaviour. Any reputable tour guides will make sure that everyone observes this rule absolutely strictly. Of course, no one tells the penguins this and I should really have said "penguins can get very close to you". If you just sit quietly, they will walk up to or around you, either ignoring you or finding you slightly curious. I found gentoos to be the most inquisitive and they seemed to enjoy a good nibble of binocular and camera straps etc. I only meant to say that you don't need a great white lens to get a close up penguin shot. Most of my close-ups were with 70-200, occasionally with a 1.4x

[kiloromeo]

OK, I think I'm getting the picture here. I'm gonna get a small completely waterproof backpack or holster affair for toting the DSLR and 2 lenses ashore, and try not to ever open it while in the zodiac. I'll use the G7 in it's waterproof housing while in the zodiac. Several freezer bags for lenses, batteries and cards. And most importantly, never, never sit in the front of the zodiac.

 

The only reason I can think of for a flash would be while onboard the main ship for whatever social get togethers there are.

 

I plan on bringing plenty of memory in the form of cards. 12 Gigs for the DSLR and 8 Gigs for the G7 plus 5 Gigs for the Handycam and 4 or so blank tapes. I went to China with a coolpix 5700 for 10 days and only used 2.7 Gigs but that was only a 5MP camera and I shot a lot of RAW too.

 

What sort of electricity is available on these ships? Does it vary from ship to ship?