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Best way to photograph FD lenses


craig_depolo

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I want to take pictures of a number of my lenses in the studio this weekend

and beyond. I'm curious if anybody has favorite set-ups to do this with,

background colours they feel are effective, or words of advice/caution. My

Dad gave me a nice table-top set-up with two side photoflood lights. I have a

couple of fiber optical lights as well, and lots of Speedlite 300TLs. And I

have a large south-facing sliding glass door several feet (about a meter and a

half) away. The natural light gives a nice vertical highlight on a vertically

standing lens that has a soft quality about it. The reflection in the lens

glass is important. Is the thousand lights reflection attractive or a flat

overhead reflector giving an even light-fill to the lens more successful? I

will be using a T90, probably Provia 100F, and as much enthusiasm I can

muster. Your comments are seriously appreciated!

 

I'm planning on taking field pictures of my super-telephoto lenses, but

perhaps someone has the opinion that all lens shots should be taken mounted on

a camera in the field. I want exciting, dynamic lens pictures!

 

Cheers,

Craig

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Hi,

 

I am a former pro advertising studio photog. These days just an amateur and shoot lenses all the time for ebay. You really do not need lights of any sort.

 

I use a daylight table top 'studio'. Small 2x3 foot table resting on south facing window sill, with adjustable legs on one side. Long very pale cream thin card background (from stationers) approx 2 feet wide and 4 feet-ish long. Rested on table top and curled up at one end to form a no-shadow background...kept vertical with an old lighting stand to tape it to.

 

A fill-in piece of white card approx 2x1 foot opposite the window, on the long side of the table top, clamped to another old lighting stand..this is moved back and forth to adjust the amount of fill for the shadow side. I shoot lengthways, or at a slight angle, with lenses at a 45 degree angle (approx) to the window. You then get a nice highlight the length of the lens, with the white card to fill shadows.

 

Shoot only on bright overcast grey days from approx 10am till about 2pm, after which the sun moves around too far. Sunny days are no good, unless you have a north facing window.

 

Use a sturdy tripod and have long timed exposures with very small aperture for large DOF, bearing in mind the DOF is small with close up table top work. I use an APS DSLR with a 50mm or 60mm macro lens.

 

The results are better than most people get with high end flash set ups...and you will need plenty of blue tac.

 

cheers Steve.M.

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Mark, I use a white shooting bubble (tent) made of rip stop nylon. You find these on ebay for about $20-$25. I like white or gray backgrounds so I get no color bouncing off the surface. You can use daylight outdoors, flash (just set them the same distance and power, or an continuous artificial source. Here is an example.<div>00OVhC-41856784.jpg.c82847d79fb2d0fc77bcbc67352df4fd.jpg</div>
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Steven, I feel like a dunce. I want to create your daylight table top studio setup but have

some problems with visualization. My mechanical acumen is not high. Is it possible you

could mount a lens to take a photo but back your digicam off enough to show details of

the setup? Blu-tac? I intend to use it with film cameras shooting transparencies and I only

have a north-facing window. If you prefer my email is donaldboyd@cox.net. Thank you

in advance.

 

Don Boyd

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Hi,

 

Don, here is a piccy of my set up. If you are going to shoot trannies you will need to bracket the exposures to get a good one. The pale background will really throw the exposure meter off..and the more of it you see, the worse it gets. A north facing window is in theory better than a south facing one. You should be able to shoot on almost any day, even sunny ones, which I am unable to.

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Thanks Steven. I understand now and see how it will work well. BTW, I suspect if I add a 3X5

chunk of grey card next to the lens and take a reading with my Pentax Spotmeter V (I never

use TTL metering), it will take care of transparency exposure. I'll let you know.

 

Don Boyd

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  • 3 weeks later...

I would like to give a belated thanx for all the comments. I will be using these as I try to pick this project up again. I've been busy with an earthquake event that has ruled my life for the last month (I'll try to post some pictures from that).

Take Care,

Craig

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