Wollensack Raptar- Is this a good idea?

[joseph_wasko]

Hello Folks. This summer, I am going to try some large format for landscapes and outdoor architecture. I was a Graphic Arts undergrad over 25 yrs ago. We used many cameras and formats way back then, but it has been a long time since I used sheet film. I could use some help. Here is my problem.

 

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I have a 10.25 in (260mm) Wollensack APO Raptar f10 Process lens-in-barrel. It is in mint condition. I was thinking about having it shutter mounted, and using it as a mild telephoto on a 4 X 5 Calumet view camera. I can't find anything on the net about coverage,sharpness or useability as a view camera lens. Can anybody help me with some information? What kind of cost am I looking at? Would it not be more cost effective just to buy a newer lens?

 

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There is a lot of good experience on this board, and I would appreciate any responses. Thanks.

[pete_andrews]

I'm sure <a href="http://www.grimes.com">S.K.Grimes website</a> can

give you a good idea of the price of a shutter. Then you've got to add

the cost of adapting the existing lens mount to fit the shutter. It

could easily make it an uneconomical exercise.

 

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I'm using a TT-H Apotal 300mm f/9 process lens on 5x4, and I can't

fault it. The small aperture isn't a problem for focussing with

that focal length. I would've needed a number 3 shutter to fit it, and

even secondhand they cost a fair bit. Instead, I bought an ancient

(about 1900?) front-of-lens shutter of the old "mousetrap" variety,

and re-furbished it slightly. It still works very well. Testing it

with a modern shutter speed tester shows that it gives 1/25th of

a second with good consistency. The speed is variable over a small

range by means of a tensioning spring, but I've yet to calibrate it

properly. Of course, it's no substitute for a decent full-speeded

modern shutter, but it's fun to use, and gives an insight into the

life of photographers of a bygone era.

[ron_shaw]

Wollensak made a lot of LF lenses in thier day. I have a 162mm Optar

(made by Wollensak, same as the in house Raptar), and its a very sharp

lens. At 260mm, it should have plenty of coveraage for 4x5 I would

think. Try a simple test by projecting an image on a wall, and you can

probably get a rough idea on coverage.

[pete_andrews]

Sorry about the wrong link in my previous post. A couple of letters

here and there make a big difference!

 

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S.K.Grimes website is <a href="http://www.skgrimes.com/">here</A>

(honest)

[chauncey_l._walden]

I have one of these lenses on a 4x5 Pacemaker Speed Graphic (so no

shutter required) and have used it for landscape. The images are

extremely sharp and contrasty. Focusing at f/10 was not a problem

(helped by a Biz-Mart plastic page magnifier on the viewer's side of

the ground glass.) Total cost of this system, by the way, was $75.79

which includes $50 for the Speed Graphic, $25 for the mint lens, and

.79 for the page magnifier. Have fun.

[doug_paramore2]

You might find a 10" lens in shutter for about what it takes to mount

the process lens, and you might find one more suitable for view

camera use. But, will it be as much fun as using the old process

lens? I suspect you might be able to mount it on the front of a

shutter without breaking the bank. If you can't find a shutter it

will screw into, an adapter can be made or you may be able to make

one yourself. It should be a fun lens and one which is quite sharp.

Go for it.

[joseph_wasko]

Thanks for the responses. This forum is great! I have emailed SK

Grimes for a quote, but it probably looks like it won't be cost

effective. For $500.00, I could shoot Nikkor, Fuji or Schneider glass.

(used)

 

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The lens stops down to f-90. With Velvia at dusk, I meter 8 secs @

f90. 3 seconds of reciprocity failure makes 11 seconds at f-90. I

could mount the lens shutterless, and still use the cap. That's

probably the route I will take with this one. This lens will get

used, but not with Tri-X in bright sun.

 

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Thanks again guys.

[david_goldfarb]

Bear in mind you could also use neutral density filters to get some

more flexibility with the aperture and still make lenscap exposures.

[struan_gray]

You might try looking for one of the shutters from an old oscilloscope

or microscope camera. The lenses that come with them can be good

(some Tominons) or lousy (oscillo-xxx-tars) but the shutters are

reliable, and usually have speeds up to 125. The clear through hole

is of the order of an inch or so, so with a 10.25" lens on 4x5 you're

unlikely to vingette once you are past f16.

 

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I have one of these mounted on a lenscap. I use the lens' iris to

stop down (if it has one) since that avoids mental arithmetic and

optimises aberration corrections. By front-mounting I get to focus

with the full aperture of the taking lens, adding the shutter only

when I want to take an image.

[ron_shaw]

I would recommend the hat trick over the lenscap trick, however. Just

to reduce potential vibration problems <|:-)