K100D and older lenses

[cory_zerkee]

Hello;

 

Firstly, I have owned several cameras over my lifetime, but normally I am just a

point and shoot guy. That said, I am interested in playing with photography

more, learning to composed and take shots manually.

 

I just picked up a K100D with the 18-55mm kit lens. I was just given a set of

old Vivitar (series 1 I think) lenses from a friend at work. I received an F3.5

35-70mmm and a F3.8 75-205mm. I figured out how to make them work using

stop-down metering, but I was noticed that it won't take the flash into account

if I am in a low light area and a flash is required. I have the camera set to

"M" mode and when I set it to fire the flash, the flash does fire, but all the

shots are overexposed because it won't take that into account when doing the

stop-down metering with the Vivitar lenses. Am I doing something wrong, or is it

just not possible to take the flash into account when metering?

 

Sorry if that is a stupid question, I told you I was a noob at this. :)

[andrew_ng7]

did you set the camera to allow the use of the aperture ring? don't own a k100d but the k10d and it has a setting in the menu to do so.

[markus maurer]

Hi Cory,

I think the K bodies will fire the integrated flash always at full power in M mode but please check with the manual. You better get an external flash anyway and old automatic flashes like a Pentax Af280T or Metz are easy and cheap to find and use. greetings, Markus

[cory_zerkee]

Thanks for the info guys. I just found the not-so-fine print in the manual. It DOES fire the flash at full power and I have to adjust the shutter speed to compensate if I want to use the flash.

 

One more question. As trying to get action shots with manual zoom on these older lenses is all but impossible, I was looking at picking up an all around lens that will work with the autofocus on my K100D. I was looking at the Pentax 18-250mm ED AL F3.5 lens seen here: http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=3189

 

Is this a decent lens? I can't afford a 'high end' lens at the moment, but I don't want a POS either.

 

Thanks again for the info! :)

[markus maurer]

Hi Cory,

this lens would be way too slow for me on the long side with F 6.3. As long as you can foresee the action you can use manual lenses with good results. Often autofocus is not fast enough as well and will be hunting. I would stay away from that lens or any such large zoom but then I prefer (old) primes anyway. :-) greetings, Markus

[markus maurer]

If you cover the internal flash with a piece of paper handkerchief or

half of a ping pong ball or another DIY solution you can regulate it's

output somewhat in M mode. Even covering parts of it with a finger could be an option. Just try it before getting serious :-)

[cory_zerkee]

Hi Markus. Thanks again for the info. I see your point, F6.3 is not great at the long end of the zoom, which defeats the purpose of a good zoom lens. I think I will be better off playing with the older lenses I got free and keeping the kit 18-55mm autofocus for point-and-shoot moments when I am not looking for the perfect shot.

 

I have been hunting around Ebay, etc for a decent prime lens and there are a ton of older Pentax 50mm F1.7 A lenses on ebay for around the $50 mark. Is that a good choice and price point?

 

Thanks again

Cory

[mc2imaging]

Two things real quick:

 

1. By default, I don't think the flash will fire in M mode if your shutter speed is faster than

180.

 

2. You cannot control the amount of light the flash puts in your image with shutter speed.

If the flash is over exposing, you must close the aperture; under exposing, open the

aperture. You can, however, drag the shutter (use a speed SLOWER than 180) to allow

more ambient light into the image for a more natural look.

[cory_zerkee]

Hi Matthew

 

1. Thanks. I can turn it off in M mode by simply closing it, I will check out the shutter speed info you mentioned though.

 

2. Ah ok, my bad. I normally don't use the flash anyways, I prefer ambient light. These lenses will be used more outside when it's bright out, so a flash won't be needed. If so though, I will adjust the aperature to compensate. Thanks!

[markus maurer]

Hi Cory

a fast 50mm Pentax prime like a A F1.7 would be a very good investment. I would look out for the "A" versions, the F/FA versions are too expensive nowadays for my taste and the "M/K" versions require manual settings. Any 50mm from Pentax will be very fine quality wise and very good for portraits on a digital body. I wonder a bit where you find "tons" of original Pentax primes, they are quite expensive and rare nowadays here. Even the "M" versions start to get prices higher than $50. You would also love any real 50/90/100mm macro lens. good luck :-) Markus

[cory_zerkee]

As I said, there are quite a few available on Ebay UK, it surprised me as well. :)

 

Thanks for all your info Markus.

[jonathan_rush]

Here is an older lens I see by the dozens on eBay for reasonable prices.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150200055605 The Pentax Takumar 135mm f/2.5 Are they worth picking up to have an inexpensive long prime in my bag?

[markus maurer]

Hi Jonathan,

it's a non SMC lens and therefore a bit on the pricey side for my taste. I can't tell you how good it performs from experience.

Watch out for a Pentax SMC 100mm F2.8 or F 3.5 135mm from the Pentax "M" series if you want something good, small and light as well.

The Pentax M 70-150mm F4 zoom is also nice and quite a bargain.

"A" versions would be preferable but are hard to find and expensive.

[Tim_Lookingbill]

I have an old K mount Vivitar 28-135mm Macro Focusing Zoom with an aperture ring "A"

setting along with individual aperture settings I use on my K100D.

 

The flash will not flip up if the aperture ring is set to anything other than "A". At this

setting I can reduce the flash level within the menu.

 

It's been a while since I read the manual but I faintly recollect there are settings within the

menu associated with using this "A" setting that changes certain parameters on how the

camera deals with different lens types.

 

The manual is a bit hard to navigate and there are so many listed settings that can turn

something on for one situation while at the same time turn something off for another but

only tell you that in another section or bury it in their gray box footnotes.

[cory_zerkee]

Hi Tim. I have the same camera. If you use an A type lens, the camera can read and adjust the aperature automatically, therefore it will control the flash level to match. If the lens is a manual type (no A setting on aperature ring), then you have to set the camera to Manual mode. The aperature is set using the aperature ring on the lens. Before taking your picture though, you have to hit the AE-L button (top right of the rear of your K100D) and it will close the aperature for a second and lock the exposure settings so you can take your picture. You have to do this for every shot that the exposure settings would be different.

 

The downside is that it will fire the flash at full blast if you use the flash. You have to use play around with the aperature to compensate manually if you use the flash with a non A type lens.

 

In the custom settings for the camera there is a setting to allow the use of the shutter if the aperature ring is set to something other than A. By default it is turned off (meaning it won't take pictures with a non A type lens).

 

Hope that helps.

[andrewg_ny]

Rather than picking up a rather pricey 18-250 I'd recommend either a DA 50-200 (very compact, not much bigger than your 18-55) or one of the many 70-80 to 300-320 f/4.5-5.6 class zooms. These will autofocus and offer full compatibility with autoexposure. Some of these are even in the $100-150 range, new!

[cory_zerkee]

I was looking at the Sigma DG 70-300mm F4-5.6 for a decent zoom lens until I can save up for the lens I REALLY want in the future, which is the Sigma 70-200mm F2.8, but being it is in the $1K range, it will be a LONG while before I can afford one. Are the 70-300mm Sigmas any good? I am currently using a Pentax M SMC 70-200mm F4.5 that I got free and it works, although I am finding it a bit of a pain to use stop-down as well as manual focus when trying to take action shots. I don't mind the manual focus, but doing both is a pain. I also noticed that although it is in abolsutely mint condition, it has a glaze on the inside of the lenses (it's old, around 1975) which doesn't seem to affect IQ.

 

So I guess I am asking, would I be better off getting that Sigma, or picking up an older SMC A type to replace my M type, so at least I can use autoexposure on my K100D. Older lenses are much cheaper and seem to have a fixed aperature throughout the entire zoom range which I like. I love this SMC M, but I wish it was an A.

[andrewg_ny]

I would think that a modern AF & 'A'-capable zoom would be considerably more convenient and it would hardly be a shock if it was optically superior. Speed would be the same through the overlapping range (f/4.5) and you'd get the bonus of the 200-300 range at f/5.6. Would be a little smaller and lighter than your 'M'.

[cory_zerkee]

I am looking at picking up a 70-120mm F4 SMC A Type. The price is right and barring any problems with it (mould,etc) when I look at it tomorrow, I will grab it. I don't mind manual focus. It should work fine until I can afford the Sigma 50-500mm. I still have my 18-55mm AF kit lens for general point-and-shoot. :)

[markus maurer]

Cory

you will be very pleased with the Pentax A 70-210mm F4 image quality.

But it is a very heavy zoom with a bit of zoom creep and I would/do use it with a monopod.

[cory_zerkee]

Thanks Markus. I will pick up a monopod then! I have noticed that will all the old heavy metal SMC lenses. But I can live with that being the IQ is very good.

[cory_zerkee]

Here is a pic I took of my cat with a Vivitar F3.5 35-70mm. Please don't bash it too hard, it's my first attempt at a decent picture. :)

 

http://members.shaw.ca/zerkee/Kiya_1.jpg

[markus maurer]

Cats are always nice Cory :-)