theresa_amelia Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 On Saturday I will be the wedding photographer at a small home wedding. This lighting question has been bugging me all day long. Do I set the lighting for Tungsten, to set the white balance for the white Christmas lights, or, since I am using a "Cloudsphere" diffuser from Gary Fong, do I just keep the lighting set for flash photography? I have the "amber" diffuser top from Gary Fong's kit, do you think it would be more appropriate to use this with the White Balance set to Tungsten, or to Flash? There will be other ambient lighting in the room - Candlelight, and I believe one or two other sources of light from either lamps or overhead lighting, plus a window or two. The couple is getting married at 3:00pm so there will still be some outdoor light remaining although it will be at best late afternoon ligjht (with cloud cover) With all of these various light sources, all at different colour temperatures, how would you approach this situation? I am well versed in both studio and outdoor lighting situations but, this one is quite unique because I'd like to capture the ambience of the Christmas lights, while at the same time keep my subjects and the background evenly lit. I plan on doing some test shots (I'm arriving at the venue 2 hours early) with my assistant in place of the bride and groom, to see what works best. But I always love the wisdom and experience of folks here - you guys really are the best! *smile* Thanks again! Theresa Hilsdon Hilsdon Photography LLC you may reply directly to theresa@hilsdon.net as well as to this thread. THANK YOU!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I have used daylight film, 160, at 1/4 sec with electronic flash. I did not miss a single shot with hand sync It was a necessity as I forgot my sync chord. Pics were georgous, people and lights on the tree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van_bemmelen Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Shoot RAW and decide in PP on what you would like the WB to be. Doing test shots 2 hours before the actual wedding is cutting it rather fine, imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamieleephoto Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/12/how-to-photograph-christmas-lights.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catherine_oostdyk Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I had a small home wedding by a Christmas tree a couple weeks ago! The ceremony was beside the tree and the couple ended up with their backs to me so I had to reposition and then the tree wasn't in many of the ceremony shots. I did several posed shots in front of the tree before and after the vows though. I was shooting RAW, AWB, ISO 400-640, and dragging the shutter a bit, most around 1/30-1/50. Here's a link to my results: http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/thumbpage.aspx?e=3337382 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_schilling___chicago_ Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I would suggest that you capture with AWB and then work with your post processing. Most of the time I rely on flash with the omnibounce angled to provide some bounce and overpower the tungsten. Unless I'm looking for some mood lighting with plenty of ambient light source but these tend to be limited to a few detail shots and available light ceremony images(where I still go with AWB).<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_beaver1 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I wouldn't worry about the xmas tree lights as much as the rest of the scene. If you prefer to balance for the flash, the tree lights will be a little warmer, which should be very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ernie.grimes Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Theresa One other thing you can try that makes the Christmas Tree lights twinkle more is use a cross screen filter on your lens. I also agree with John Ernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_boyd Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Shoot black-and-white :-) Kidding aside, it might not be a bad idea for some shots with weird color imbalances. Also, throw in a BW shot of them near the tree. I like to present BW images of subjects that most people expect to see in color: wedding cake, party balloons, American Flag, Christmas tree etc. They already know what these things look like in color, and it makes them do a double-take when they see it in BW. Good Luck, paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenPapai Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Theresa, it's assumed you're shooting with film. Many others assume you shoot with DSLR. Is there any possible way you provide that important detail here? [if you use DSLR, you shoot Raw and it doesn't matter what you preset WB to... there is no better answer]<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_osullivan Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Ok, the window light, if it's coudy will be bluish. The christmass tree lights will be amber as will the tungsten lights throughout. I'll bet there is some fourescent lighting in the ceiling as well. And you need to choose for your flash. If the scene overall favors tungsten, then I'd balance the flash with the amber lid. And if the scene favors window light I would shoot the flash as it is. Either way, I would use custom WB not Tungsten, flash, daylight, cloudy or AWB and fix it later in post. Mixed lighting is exactly what custom WB was designed for. All you need is a white peice of paper in your pocket or a grey card. Get it right at capture, even it you shoot raw + jpeg. Why not save the time later and get it right now. In a cases like this I might shoot RAW + LG Jpeg. Just in case I do get it right, I can avoid any post. Not to mention, the light coming in from those windows and the overall mix will change over the term of the event. So, recalculate CWB as needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWebster Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 If you don't have time to mess with a white or grey card rmember that most brides and grooms are wearing the white and the black you need to put the eye-dropper on in Photoshop. I have the white set to 240 and the black to 20. Maintaining a warm look means you may not want to remove all color cast. I use curves to tweak the final result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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