Jump to content

does R 128, G 128, B 128 = Zone 5?


Recommended Posts

I have looked into this, and the short answer is no. There is a formula. I think it depends on the gamma. Frankly I figured it would be simple but it isn't, or at least I haven't figured it out yet.

 

For those questioning, try this experiment: Take a raw file, and do three converstions, one at -1 EV (or stop or whatever your raw converter calls it), one at 0 EV, and one at +1 EV. Pick three points of varying brightness around the image, and note the exact coordinates (so you can be sure to examine the exact same pixels in each version). Use the color picker to get the R, G, and B values of each pixel from each version of the image. If Zones I through XI were represented linearly by 0 through 255, you would find that a change in 1 EV always meant a change of +/- 25.5. (If this were the case, Zone I would be 0, Zone II 26, Zone III 51, Zone IV 77, Zone V 102, etc.) But it just doesn't work that way.

 

There is a useful post somewhere on photo.net addressing the issue. Unfortunately I can't put my fingers on it at just this moment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it looks to me like Godfrey's chart indicates that every Zone is about +/-30 relative to the Zone next to it.

 

this would not be surprising since, iirc, one of the distinctive characterisitcs of digital sensor output is that it is a straight line relative to the amount of light falling on it. (i hope i said this correctly).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Godfrey, could I direct your attention to the image that you posted? I realize it depends a bit on the monitor, but surely you would agree that the difference between your I and II is <B>much</B> less than the difference between your IX and X? In other words, your scale is not divided into even zones, each representing a 1 EV change. I submit that it is strong evidence that JPEG encoding does <I>not</I> have a linear representation of zones (which are themselves a logarithmic representation of density, IIRC).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaetano, that sounds like a reasonable approach, at least assuming your raw conversion process is neutral. The only thing I would point out is that, at the very extremes, it is hard to know exactly how much exposure it takes to get pure black and pure white. I think you are on the right track.

 

I plan to try something similar when I get a chance, in addition to more raw conversions of the same file with different density compensation (I've already done some).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave,

 

The posterization technique I used to create 10 evenly spaced zones are graduated linearly

from black to white. It's not an EV step wedge. The differentials between steps are exactly,

mathematically even but our *perception* of the differences differs because human vision

is not linear in nature.

 

This has nothing to do with JPEG compression encoding, which has plenty of resolution to

represent a grayscale stepwedge accurately.

 

I have a Kodak Professional Photoguide with an accurate Zone V card (18% gray

reflectance) and a step wedge registering eight EV steps (80%, 40%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 2.5%,

1.3% and 0.7% reflectance). Since these are known-accurate reflectance values in EV series,

I'll capture an image of them with both scanner and DSLR to render a similar step wedge in

these terms. I don't find it as useful for my work in evaluating digital exposure, however.

 

I doubt I'll get to it until next week, though, as I'm preparing for a trip this weekend.

 

Godfrey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...