Portraits w/ Rolleiflex TLR + Flash + Reflector

[petrovski]

I finally got around to developing some 8x8 prints from a series of window-lit

portraits I shot with my Rolleiflex TLR (Tmax 400). The quality of these prints

compared to those from my best 35mm lens is beyond amazing--I'm sure I don't

need to convince anyone of this.

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This experiment motivated me to attempt some family portraits with the

Rolleiflex when I return home for Christmas next month. Since I rarely see my

folks and sister, I am striving for excellent photos (which of course I would

like to share with family afterwards if only to justify their time and effort).

Here is my equipment list:

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- Rolleiflex 2.8e (this camera has a 50mm equivalent lens which allows a head

and shoulder shot at the closest focus range; I also have a Rolleinar lens

attachment which basically allows me to get full head shots)<br>

 

- Tmax 400 and a positive film (which positive film is best for portraits?)

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- a 5-in-1 42" reflector (I think the skeleton/structural shell can act as a

diffuser?)

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- two tilt flashes (a Sunpak which tils 90deg and swivels left/right; Canon,

just tilts 90deg)

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- tripod

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- ambient meter/spotmeter

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- a grey card

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- I may purchase a slave flash before to help me out

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I have been playing around with the flash and found that pointing it straight

up, 90deg, brought me nice ambient light diffusion but it created soft shadows

under the subjects eyes. I tried the reflector in this case but too often the

shots would be blown out. Should I make a diffuser for the flash?

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I would like to shoot both half-body shots as well as full head shots (perhaps

some anthropometric shots for fun). These will be done inside and probably in

the evening. Props: chairs, couch, usual home furnishings. With all the

equipment listed, how would you set it up for a home portrait shoot? What, if

anything, would you add to the list of equipment? How would you point the flash

on a flat ceiling room versus a vaulted ceiling? I will be traveling by plane

across the country so can not bring huge soft boxes or anything abundant.

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Any suggestions. Thanks.

[petrovski]

BTW, I also intend on using a green filter for the B&W shots. Any suggestion are greatly appreciated.

[ronald_moravec1]

I would never shoot tight head shots with a 80mm. Everything gets way out of proportion

like noses.

 

Some light needs to go forward, some off the ceiing 1/2 way to the subject. That or get

some umbrellas because they fold up well.

[david_m]

I think a Mamiya TLR with either the 135mm or 180mm lenses would be much better. An 80mm lens for 6x6 shots is not really suitable for portraits unless we are talking about full length shots.

[derek_stanton2]

Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, David Bailey, Clifford Coffin, Cecil Beaton, Helmut Newton, Bert

Stern...all shot portraits and closeups with the Rolleiflex 80mm, with and without Rolleinars.

A pretty "suitable" lot of images have been made with that setup.

 

Peter, it's all a matter of personal taste, but if i were you, i'd try stick to natural light. Tri-

X/HP5, and Portra 400, or Fuji Pro 400H. If you have to use flash, ONE flash, bounced off a

wall behind you, perhaps, or a large white reflector. Plus-X, Delta 100 or Reala.... An

umbrella is another good idea.

[mike_earussi1]

Of course, for genuine authenticity you could always use a Rolleiflash with flashbulbs. I have, though admittidly it has been a while, but it works great, and flashbulbs do look better than strobe.

[petrovski]

@ronald: maybe I'll just shoot a half body shot and later crop if i want a head shot--perhaps that would avoid the problem of proportions. (however, I wanted to say that steve pyke has for years been shooting head shots with rolleiflex and rolleinar but then who cares). What do you mean by "1/2 way to the subject"?

 

@david: i had a mamiya but it had terrible focusing problems so i returned it.

 

@derek: I totally agree. Actually, your fine list of photogs motivated me to research this a bit myself and am happy to have found that the rolleiflex is exceptional format for portraits. The TriX and HP5 are currently my favorites, and I will look into the portra/pro films. Yes, I've had quite the success bouncing flash off the ceiling, however, it is always a struggle to determine the exact location and angle of the reflector below...that is after a bunch of digital shots I get one or two keepers. With film, I can not afford to waste the film. I like the idea of the umbrella for its light control...

 

@mike: rolleiflash? interesting...i'll look into it.

 

SO--looks like the umbrella it is. I'll have to see about that. For now, the home made, shoe-box soft-box will do.

[mag_miksch]

<i>@david: i had a mamiya but it had terrible focusing problems so i returned it.</i><br><br>some 330f and all 330s have that fully enclosed WLF which is a pleasure to focus.<br> Martin

[User_502260]

I use a 150 if I'm shooting with one of my Bronica SQ-A bodies. The 150/4 and 150/3.5 lenses I have for the Bronica ETR and ETRS bodies don't focus as close as I would like for head shots so I use a 105/3.5 instead. It is different enough from the 75/2.8 to keep the proportions looking right. At some point I'll get an S18 extension tube for the SQ-A cameras to use with the 150. The S36 tube I have is too long.

[stefan_fielding_isaacs]

Amigo.. you can try what I do. Use some electronic slave units hooked to your flashes (with umbrellas) and then hook your trigger up to a digital camera set to the same ASA as the film in your Rollei. While the focal length/color tone may vary you should get a very accurate look at shadows/lighting from the digital. When it looks perfect (use a test subject), swap in your Rollei and fire away, confident that you'll be very very close to a perfectly lit exposure.

 

Best of luck,

Stefan