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What mode?


35mmdelux

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This question is asked a lot. Do a search. I use manual mode maybe 90% of the time, with aperture priority or shutter priority the other 10%. I never use Program. Manual mode so I control the exposures. An automated mode if shooting fast action and can't take the time to do settings, but I have thoroughly tested the camera's automated modes and know how to set them (compensation) to my liking. The problem with aperture priority is when you need to photograph indoors, where it will set too slow a shutter speed.
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So much depends on the camera and the skill of the operator.

It is fine to suggest Manual all the time but for a beginner keeping track of everything it may be too much to expect to be able to fine tune things on the fly.

 

I shoot with Nikons 100%, all of my equipment is coordinated together so that the maximum information is available to me at all times. When I use a program mode it is with total understanding of what it is telling me and then I can decide if I need to make a change. The exposure that I will get is precise and specific. When there are particular circumstances when a program mode-you can make your own as well as using the presets does not seem to be workable than going to a more manual mode makes sense.

 

In practice most of us know what we are looking for after years of working with film cameras and the more primative sensing devices but for a lot of new kids on the block there is little or no understanding of what the possible combinations and implications are. Hence the number of questions that ask others to tell them what settings to use in what situations!

 

It is a good question to consider how you managed to get decent exposure with film. But not everyone did.

In many discussions at my lab the lament that they have is that those who handed in poorly exposed film hand in horrible digital files!

 

It is all about the caputure If you don't get it right at the outset you will pay the price in time to fix it or the delete moment.

 

Learn your equipment which takes a lot of really looking at what the camera tells you it sees and then seeing what you are seeing at the same time.

 

Brooke

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It is fine to suggest Manual all the time but for a beginner keeping track of everything it may be too much to expect to be able to fine tune things on the fly.

 

____

 

I think that the best way to learn photography is to use manual with no 'wonderbrick' features.

 

if you are a beginner, learn manual. if you have trouble, find a tutor or a mentor. I have mentored many people into photography, and trust me, manual mode plus a strong effort toward understanding the fundamentals of exposure forms the best foundation for a career in photography.

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Rob asked: "What mode did you shoot in when you were photographing weddings with film, Paul?"

 

Hasselblad or Leica M camera, fully manual.

 

When I got my D200 few weeks ago I instinctively placed it in AP mode, being an auto cam afterall. As I kept up my reading I started noticing others' use of manual mode.

 

Often I want to open up the aperture a stop or two under challenging light conditions (as you know) - not a problem with my Leicas. Using manual with these fully auto cams is counter-intuitive for me at least. Now I know.

 

BTW - the Zeiss ZF 50mm/1.4 totally rocks.

 

Thanks much - Paul

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oh yeah, 95% manual, all the time. I do it because you are dealing with extremes in weddings - black suits, white dresses. suppose I compose a shot with some sky in the background and then zoom in just a bit and take away some of the sky.

 

with an automagic mode, my exposure will change, but only b/c the camera thinks that the subject changed, when it didn't.

 

manual mode keeps me in control at all times.

 

I sometimes use shutter priority for some fun blur effects. P is PANIC mode - eg. I'm indoors, and there is a decisive moment happening in under two seconds outside, and I can't change settings quickly enough. I shoot canon, and unfortunatley there is no auto ISO mode yet. that's one thing I would love to have!

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The D200s and I don't seem to have the same idea of what is the most important part of the image, so I'm in manual exposure almost all the time. Nothing like a stray bit of sunlight coming through the foliage to mess up an automatic exposure. That, and I have heavy glasses, and they've still not really solved the backlight-through-the-eyepiece problem.

 

I've been shooting more and more in manual focus, too, for the same basic reason. Trying to shoot through a beautiful frame of branches, or with a but-ugly and s'posed-t'be-outafocus Shell station in the background is an exercise in absolute frustration. It seems like the smarter cameras have become, the dumber they are about stray sunbeams, blades of grass, and wiggly 2-year-olds.

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I think you can shoot successfully in any mode. The optimal mode for any person would depend on their style of photography, equipment, experience and ability to use it all so it's not a one size fits all.

 

Personally I like control and exposure consistency between frames so I shoot manual. I'm not good enough to get consistent results with my gear in aperture priority or any other auto mode. Flash is manual too for the same reasons. Metering is done by either using the in-camera spotmeter, guesstimating & check histogram or by using an incident meter. My style is documentary mixed with some B&G portraits.

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Paul, when shooting manual I think you can set the D200 to use the aperture ring on your lens instead of the dials. That should probably be easier for you and more in line with your other equipment.

 

And ZF lenses are manual focus right? If you like split screens you should look into Hauda Fu or Katz Eye replacement screens for your D200.

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All the Weddings I have done have been film, except for two, where I was an assistant photographer, (you say `second shooter`), earlier this year.

 

For those two Weddings I used a 5D and 20D.

 

With a few weeks of practice before the event, I used manual mode,* as I had done more than 95% of the time, for years previous, when using film.

 

My reason: Absolute and fundamental control.

 

I don`t see any differentiation, just because it is a different recording medium, I would be interested if others have a varying view, in this regard.

 

WW

 

* I used Aperture Priority twice, in a sequence of candid interactions outside the Church: Bride and Bridesmaids in open shade: but I would have done the same if the camera had film.

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I shot only manual until a few months ago with spot metering. Then when I learned how to control program mode properly and anticipate what the camera would do for a given scene, I switched. Now I use manual mainly for flash because the camera doesn't know about my pocket wizards. 90% is now Program mode.

 

Program is nice when you realize that you may choose any exposure value (+-2 stops on Canon) and then slide up and down the chosen exposure value much like priority modes. It's like auto with full manual override. I use matrix metering, which has been easier to predict that I thought it would be.

 

I've found that my attention has now shifted more to the subject, and less to the metering, which is a good thing.

 

It was mentioned above that Canon has no auto ISO mode. Actually, the green square mode does have auto ISO, but it gives you no manual override AT ALL. I don't think I could bring myself to that extreme.

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>>> I shot only manual until a few months ago with spot metering. Then when I learned how to control program mode properly and anticipate what the camera would do for a given scene, I switched. <<< (ER)

 

The problem (I have) with `program mode` is the `program shift` facility, to which I believe is referenced, needs, an half depression of the shutter and then select the appropriate program shift.

 

Two actions prior to the shot, then all is lost for the next shot. Totally not suitable and a waste of time, for same scene shooting

 

Noted, I have only taken two Weddings in the last year, both with digital and both as an assistant (2nd shooter), but with over 1000 up my sleave with film, that process (I think) would drive me crazy.

 

But, different strokes for different folks.

 

On the basis of your post, and your home page images (but were they all shot manual?): I am willing to give Program + Program shift another go.

 

Thank you for the differing opinion.

 

WW

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WW:

I agree about the fleeting program shift selection. It is noticeably a problem at times, but not so much for getting multiple shots with the same setting. The big problem is selecting a program shift, and then trying to wait for the right moment. The selection goes away if you take another meter reading (I.E. re-focus). Sometimes it is a bit annoying. (sometimes I fall back to manual when I have time because of this.)

 

About 50% of the shots on my site are manual mode at this point. This time last year, they were all manual. I never really liked AV or TV modes much, so the other half are program shift with compensation applied.

 

I was inspired to give program shift a try by Mr. Ascough, and I found that I was very comfortable with it.

 

Of course, I always recommend new photographers put their camera in manual and break off the knob! Without mastering manual mode, program mode is uncontrollable.

 

"On the basis of your post, and your home page images"...

 

I'm honored! Thanks very much!

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