Infra Red Beam breaker Release - Canon LC2 for 30D?

[zigzag]

I want to trigger camera/flash for nocturnal animals (bats, possums, kangaroos)

and have seen the <a

href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/canont90/t90manual/page18.htm">Wireless

Controller LC-2 (5m range) <a/> or custom triggers: <a

href="http://www.hiviz.com/index.html">Hiviz</a>. There are also the LC-3 and

LC-4 devices but I did not see the beam break option on the LC-3. I have a 30D

and a 580ex.

 

Questions:

<br>

1. Anyone have experience/recommendations for these?<br>

2. Where can 3-pin remote control plugs be bought (with wiring details) for use

with external triggers? Why 3 pins? <br>

3. Any delay issues? <br>

[HenryUK]

You can use the LC-2 to trigger an 30D. You'll need an RA-N3 adapter to convert the T3 plug to the N3 remote socket. It's ridiculously expensive for what it is.

 

It's best to put the 30D in manual focus mode, as the LC-2 was designed for the T90, manual focus body, and only provides a single action shutter press, not the two stage we're used to on the 30D.

 

You may also need an extension cable 1000-T3 if you want to have the camera any distance from the LC-2 receiver.

 

You may have a problem waking up the 580EX. It will go to sleep after a few minutes and may not switch back on fast enough the first time the beam is interrupted.

 

The three pins are, looking at the Canon T3 connector on the male side:

Left - Shutter

Right - Focus

Bottom - Earth

 

The 60-T3 remote switch uses all three. The LC-2 only uses shutter & earth.

 

You're right, the LC-3 & LC-4 do not have the beam break function.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Henry

[zigzag]

So is there a better option than the LC-2? And should I get an older manual flash - e.g. Vivitar 283? Any idea which ones have safe trigger voltages that won't damage my EOS camera. I'd want high power, rugged, workhorse - flash distance would be set and camera focus manual.

[zigzag]

There is an 'eBay Hong Kong special' Shutter Release RS80N3 Remote (cheap) that can be adapted/hacked for the N3 connector, which leaves the T3. I just found this site: <a href="http://www.camerahacker.com/Canon/N3_Pinout.shtml">Camera hack</a> which supplies some details. I am now reading the <a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#olderspeedlite">Canon EOS Flash FAQ</a>. The 430EZ would have the same wake up issues? What's an economical manual Flash that I can use for this function and also with an EOS 10 (film camera)?

[HenryUK]

I think a Speedlite 199A would do the trick. It's quite powerful and has not damaged my 30D. You'd have to set aperture and shutter speed manually, according to the dial on the back of the 199A.

 

The EOS 30D can take up to 250V flash trigger voltage. Canon's official stance is that film EOS bodies should not have more than 6V applied.

 

I think any Speedlite after the 199A, e.g. 299T and 430EZ have a power save function that may or may not be selectable. My 550EX can select between permanently on or power save after a few minutes. I imagine the 580EX is the same, so it should stay awake until the batteries are exhausted.

 

You could buy a through beam photelectric switch from the likes of Omron, Keyence, Sick or Banner that will provide a contact closure when interrupted. You'd have to provide an electrical supply to the device though.

 

Henry

[tommyinca]

Since you need to built or buy an infrared light trigger that also will act as a voltage isolator, you don't need to worry about the trigger voltage. The Vivitar 283 is best at these task as their power/duration (your electronic shutter) is easy to access and well documented. Here is a link that have a step by step, as well as an available kit for you to build a photo gate high speed trigger projects. Good luck. WARNING: When you start opening flash units, do watch out for that high voltage/energy capacitor which can store shocking charge for days after you turn it off.

 

http://www.hiviz.com/tools/triggers/makeown.htm#pg

[tommyinca]

Also, the Vivitar 283 does not auto-shut off (good for what you want to do). It will last a number of hours with a newly charged set of batteries. You could also use external power for longer durations.

[andy_jones2]

I know you have a 30D but did you know that in (all?) some of the 1 series cameras " Personal

Function 16" triggers exposure when focus is achieved at a designated focus point? I don't

know if it does so repeatedly. But you set focus manually and find some way to "keep the

shutter button fully depressed" and it won't fire until it sees something in focus where you

set it. I've never used it but stored it in the back of my mind...

[photographicsafaris]

I have used this setup quite a bit and have found that having a preset focus point to be the

answer, the two main issues are:

 

1> the Infa red reciever is too close to the Camera, I wish that it couls be at the end of a

long 5m extension.

 

2> Batteries, you have to set the camera and flash out of sleep mode so that it will fire

when the beam is broken.

 

This is a description I posted a while back.

 

 

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=192149

 

I have had no joy with owls and bats but squirrels love it, something to do with using the

right bait. I need to figure out a way to keep the squirrels there long enough for an owl to

take note!<div></div>

[zigzag]

That's really good. LC-2s are not too easy to find, I may go the 'make your own' way. I have also seen some 'Chinese special' Pocket Wizard copiess (wireless remote flash controllers/triggers) on eBay going cheap that I thought maybe I could work into this. Possums I have in my back garden.

[mark u]

Some other solutions worth considering include a Zigview LCD anglefinder:

 

http://www.zigview.co.uk/

 

Both the R and S2 models include motion sensing triggering and associated intervalometer functionality, as well as solving the wake-up problem mentioned by Graham, and are available with N3 type connecting cords to fit a 30D.

 

You might also want to investigate modifying PIR devices that are typically used to switch floodlighting in response to warm bodies/motion, although these are less precise in locating a subject. For more on these look at trail camera sites such as this one:

 

http://www.hagshouse.com/Hags%20House/Trail%20Camera%20Project.htm

 

There are also ready built solutions such as these:

 

http://www.bmumford.com/photo/camaccess.html

[ark biel]

<p> In the picture below I captured a female cardinal. My camera was triggered using the <a

HREF="http://www.universaltimer.com/gallery9.html">infra-red beam sensor and high speed photography

controller</A> .</p>

<img src="http://www.universaltimer.com/Images_Gallery/female_cardinal.jpg" alt="Water Drops" "" width="550">

<p>The sensor does not require a transmitter or a reflector for it to work. You can even point it upwards -

giving you full flexibility with your setup. </p>

<p>The pictures can be taken completely unattended. The unit can also take pictures automatically every few

minutes preventing your camera from entering the sleep mode.</p>

<p>You can connect it to most Canon or Nikon cameras making it a great replacement for LC-2 controller.</p>