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T-MAX RS Developer is intended for use in replenished systems, where you use a large tank of developer, and add a little developer after each developing session to make up for the lost activity of the developer. You would normally use it in a deep tank system (hangers in tanks), dip and dunk systems, or roller transport machine processing.

 

It can be used in small tanks, but it's not really intended for that, the normal T-MAX Developer is.

 

No times are provided for diluted use, since that would be incompatible with the intention of reusing the developer with replenishment. Diluted developers just aren't stable. So all the times are for the stock solution, where one bottle makes one or five gallons of stock solution, based on the size of the bottle.

 

You would put the stock solution in two bottles, one large (working), and one smaller (replenisher). You would use enough working to develop a roll, add the right amount of replenisher to the working bottle, and then pour back the used developer to return to the original "fill line" of the working bottle. There will be some used developer to pitch.

 

Yes, the times for New Tri-X are impractically short for small tank processing. Rather "hot" developer, probably intentionally so, to increase the throughput of machine processing lines, which are the primary market.

 

Of course, you can skip the whole replenishment deal, and just mix from the bottle, 1 part concentrate to 4 parts water, and throw it out after use. A very sure-fire method, and the concentrate probably keeps longer than working strength solution.

 

The ordinary T-MAX Developer is less hot, more appropriate for Tri-X. You can also use it use-and-throw. (Compensating for re-use by increasing developing times may cut your developer costs in half, but at the cost of uniformity.)

 

I don't see any times for diluted use of ordinary T-MAX Developer either. No idea if that provides good or bad results.

 

If you're interested in speed-enhancing developers, also consider Ilford's Microphen of Ilfosol DD-X. DD-X uses the same 1:4 dilution ratio as both T-MAX developers. I've been happy with it.

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Here is how and why I use T-MAX RS:<p>

Kodak recommends it for sheet film and since I use both roll and sheet film I don't want to fuss with multiple developers.<p>

I use a "one shot" method throwing away the developer after each use.

First I mix parts A and B (my experience is that this will keep for at least 6 months if sealed and cool)

For each session I dilute the T-MAX 1:9 (100ml T-MAX: 900ml water)

I use a development time of about twice what is recommended for the standard dilution. (You should adjust this to match your EI and contrast requirements)

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Well, see the data sheet on how long you can keep replenishing. (It's online at Kodak's website.) There's an age limit on how long the working solution lasts. You could mix another jug and keep replenishing if you wanted.

 

As I noted, you can't run replenished at anything other than the standard dilution.

 

Jeff's approach of doubling the time when doubling the dilution is probably a good approximation to the right time. You will get a different look from this, maybe less "speed enhancing" than the standard dilution.

 

It may be more practical to put the T-MAX RS aside and spend the $13 for a bottle of ordinary T-MAX Developer? Or Ilford DD-X?

 

What are your goals of trying T-MAX RS?

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Ahh, it's free! Always attractive.

 

It looks like the developing time for all the conventional films are really short with T-MAX RS. Really best to save it for T-MAX films.

 

You can try it with one roll of Tri-X, and see if you get even developing at 4 minutes. (Just toss the tank of developer back in the jug, don't worry about replenishing after the first roll.) If you don't get good results, plan to dilute it 1:1 before use, and throw after use, doubling the developing time.

 

Of course, how much money will you spend on Tri-X perfecting processing with this developer? May be a false economy...

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For Tmax films, I mix Sol A with enough water to make 32 oz. total. Then mix Sol B with enough water to make 32 oz total.

 

Then use 1 part A + 1 part B + 6 parts water, and you will be very close to a 1:9 dilution that many recommend, such as John Sexton.

 

The mixed solutions keep very long, up to 10-12 months. This was documented in View Camera magazine a few years ago.

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