Recent Gitzo Tripod purchase, how to?

[tm_photography]

I just got a Gitzo tripod outfit and it is beautiful, but I am having trouble

getting used to using it. If anyone has any helpful tips to speed the learning

curve, I'd much appreciate it.

 

The legs are GT2530EX

The head is G1377M

and the Quick release is G2285M

 

I am having trouble levelling the tripod. The spirit level on the tripod says

it's level. I adjust the head and the spirit level on the quick release says

it's level, but when I swivel the head at its base, it becomes un-level.

 

I am sure this will come with time but how do I judge how far to spread the

tripod legs so that it's approximately level to begin with since they spread

independently.

 

The tripod is rock solid even without my camera bag hanging from the hook

but I also want to to QTVR work and am building a head for that to go on top of

my regular head. I thus will need the head to stay level when rotating 360 degrees.

 

The "manuals" that come with the tripods cover assembly and that's it.

Any help or references to links where I may find more information would be

greatly appreciated.

 

Image of the set up. Have I set it up correctly? I'm such a newbie with pro

tripods. I just upgraded from a crappy Velbon.

 

 

 

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/6293307-md.jpg">

 

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/6293315-md.jpg">

 

Timothy

[ellis_vener_photography]

The problem is that while you have leveled the camera platform the base, the base of the head, where the panning mechanism is located is not necessarily level. The solution is to either return the head and get one with a panning camera platform (the Arca-Swiss V series or the Really Right Stuff BH-55 with the PCL-1 clamp installed, or get a second party panning base to add to your existing rig (see Really Right Stuff or Novaflex, or Acratech.)

[michael_bizon]

I have a older Gitzo 1228 Mountaineer and a new Gitzo 1378 (QR) head, the quickest

system is to get a leveling base ($$money$$), but I seldom pan my shots so I don't need

one but here is how you can level quickly. This is an old construction trick when using

theolodites or Auto Levels, get your legs setup and your ball head leveled on top, now with

the top QR plate level, pan your head 90 deg. adjust the legs so it's level again, turn 90

deg and adjust the legs, keep on doing this and you'll get your ball head completely level

do not re-level the top of the ball, use the legs for this and it'll work out perfect. hope

this helps.....MBizon

[Ed_Ingold]

You need to level the platform to which the head is attached. Leveling the legs won't help since the column can be tilted.

 

The simplest way to do this is with a leveling platform. Larger Gitzo tripods take a G-1321 leveling platform in place of the column assembly. In your case, a Bogen or Acratech leveler would be the best option, which go between the column and the head. In each, there is a ball joint that moves about 7 degrees in any direction and a bubble level on the upper surface. You have to level the camera separately using the ball head.

 

The tripod you purchased is very flexible for macro and nature photography. However, it is relatively slow and clumsy for conventional photography, particularly where the tripod must be level. Every angle can be adjusted - or misadjusted.

[michael_bizon]

Edward, maybe there is a misunerstanding, I used to use a quality torpedo level in this

process, but since most heads have a level then you don't need one, but I would set up my

tripod then I'd set the torp level on top rotating it every 90 deg. and adjusting the legs

until the top was completely level ( this can only be achieved by moving the torp level at

any position around the top 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 so on and so forth) then my tripod was

ready

for the camera head, maybe this is old school, but it can be done in under a minute and

works great.. I have to do this all time on tripods in heavy construction when we are using

precision measuring euipment.

[Ed_Ingold]

Michael,

 

To use the panning base of an head, the axis of rotation must be vertical, which means the column must be vertical. A bubble level on the top of the head won't help you with this. With a leveling platform you can set the legs by eye then fine-tune the level in seconds.

 

You can use a torpedo level on the column as a check, but it's not easy to adjust the legs to achieve a vertical column and it takes a long time. It is also another object to carry and somewhat large (and magnetic) for a camera bag. A bubble level on the platform is better, since it indicates the low or high leg(s) directly. All of the transits I've used have a three-screw leveling platform for fine adjustments - a royal PITA for use in photography. Besides, most surveyers lean on their equipment for hours (in lieu of shovels) - a totally different work flow.

 

If you don't think a minute is a long time, try holding your arm out to the side for an whole minute ;-)

[michael_bizon]

Well I thought I was just helping out maybe a leveling base is the way to go, but it does

help to know how to live without one, as far as surveyors leaning on their equipment and

"(in lieu of shovels)" and a totally different work flow!!! I'm not sure Edward where this

comes into play, but if you must then go ahead, I work with tripods all day long and no

not as a surveyor but as you pointed out a minute is a long time, and I can't afford

anymore here.

[tm_photography]

The bubble head on the top of the tripod is on the column assembly and moves when from level when the column is angled. Therefore it would seem reasonable that when the level on the column assembly is level, the head should also be on a level platform. Also the head does have an independent panning mechanism which is why I bought it. I have tried levelling the quick release and rotating the pan on the head then levelling again... eventually it seems to become level. I was just hoping there was an easier way.

[michael_bizon]

Timothy, I see what you mean, I have one of those small 2-way levels that fit into the

hotshoe, I set everything up and ignored the QR plate level and guess what, everything

panned level, might be that the QR bubble level really isn't spot on, and should only be

used for quick reference, I use the hotshoe level all the time with my speed finder in the

upright position, might be the trick for you, hope this helps out, and as a note I haven't

been to impressed with this Gitzo head (for other reasons) and have been looking for one

of their Low Profile 3-way heads. Good Luck!

[akajohndoe]

You could try a hotshoe mounted level.

[Ed_Ingold]

You must level the base and camera separately. Leveling the base keeps the same level as you pan the head at its base. The camera must be leveled separately using a bubble in the clamp or attached to the camera in some way. I use a double-tube level that fits in the hot shoe.

 

If you have a panning mechanism in the clamp itself (e.g., an RRS PCL-1), you do not need to level the tripod or base of the head. However, the horizon will always be in the center of the frame, which is seldom desirable.

 

The bubble levels could be off-calibration too. However, if the bubble stays within the engraved ring, that is close enough for photographic purposes.