david_bornfriend Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Hello everyone. I recently purchased a Gitzo GT2530 Carbon Fiber tripod. I was looking in to tripod heads and I am at a complete loss for a decision. I am shooting with a Canon 5D with a 24-70mm/2.8L lens and possibly looking at owning a 70-200mm in the future. I also use the battery grip with it. I am a student shooting mainly at doing editorial portrait work professionally. I had the Acratech V2 ballhead in mind when originally looking, but it really bothers me that I have to spend $30 for each different quick release. There is one for the 5D, but if I want to shoot with the battery grip on, I need a different plate. I also own, but only occasionally shoot with a Canon EOS Elan7, an Olympus OM2, which all require different quick release plates. My question is this. Is there any head out there similar to the V2 that doesn't require me spending over $300 for the head and another $100 or more just on quick release plates? I haven't had good experiences(grease from head getting on gear/clothes, no fine adjustment when composing frame-either completely loose or completely tight) with many ballheads and was hoping the V2 would change my mind. So any advice on what head to look into would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 High quality ball heads use no grease (or lubrication) - Arca, RRS, Kirk and Acratech to name a few. Heads that do use grease work poorly with or without proper lubrication. The better heads have effective tension control which allows the accurate positioning of the camera before being completely tightened. Slip-stick action is one of the primary faults of cheap heads, second only to failure to hold the weight of the camera and lens when off-center. Arca-Swiss type QR works best with separate plates to fit each camera. The custom fitting prevents rotation between the camera and plate, which is one of the prime reasons to use AS plates. You could use a generic lipped plate from RRS (for example) and attach it to the camera of the day. While that hardly constitutes "quick" release, it is an expedient for occasional use. It's a good idea to get an "L" plate for the camera you use most. RRS plates are the the "gold standard" of A/S devices. The typical price is $55 each - more for specialty items. It is pointless to use an auxillary battery grip on a tripod. Unless the grip is built into the body, the connection is loose and wobbly - hardly justifying the use of a tripod. A good tripod and head is as essential to your kit as an hot new lens - and priced similarly. Personally, I wouldn't consider an head that did not offer A/S type QR. I've use most of the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mendonphoto Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Maybe somebody can either back me up or prove me wrong, but I don't think you have to use the Acratech QR plates with the Acratech heats. They (and most of the good heads) use the Acra Swiss QR plate specifications, so plates from Acratech, Arca Swiss, RRS, or Kirk should all be interchangeable. That being said, I don't think the Acratech plates are overpriced - at least compared to other plates (though I agree that even $30 seems too much to pay for what is actually a pretty simple piece of metal.) Also, I'm going to break with the establishment and suggest that the custom fit plates really aren't necessary. I use the simple flat plates with cork on my camera (with a variety of lenses) and on my 70-200mm f/2.8. I've never had them slip. Not even close. I even mounted my camera to the head with the 70-200 on it (rather than mounting the lens) once, and it was fine. My opinion is that if you are putting so much stress on your tripod mount that you need the custom plates, you are probably doing something wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex_lofquist Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 I have used the cork-filled plates on my Manfrotto/Bogen head for lenses up to 200mm. They were not stable enough for me when I put on my longer lenses. Eventually went to Kirk BH-1 and A-S plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 The plates mentioned by Aaron are mostly interchangeable. Kirk plates are a little undersized compared to Arca and RRS and Markins (not mentioned) considerably undersized. If you mix-and-match components, it's best to use a screw-type clamp. Lever clamps are not easily adjustable and very sensitive to slight dimensional differences. Ordinary QR plates "slip" when you try to use the camera in the vertical orientation, even if you flop the camera so that rotation tends to tighten the scres. The also slip when you try to position the camera with the head slightly tightened - a common and useful practice. What you are doing "wrong" is using the wrong QR system. There is no way you can tighten a plate enough to prevent this using the screw alone - that's what the lip or cup is for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad_ Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 >>> .... so plates from Acratech, Arca Swiss, RRS, or Kirk should all be interchangeable. Sort of... I do know, for example, that the angle of the dovetails on the AS plates is slightly different than that on the RSS heads. That's why they recommend using the screw-release over the lever-release on their heads if you're going to use AS plates. More clamping force using the screw to accomodate the disssimilar dovetails. Something to be aware of... www.citysnaps.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mendonphoto Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 <p><i>There is no way you can tighten a plate enough to prevent this using the screw alone - that's what the lip or cup is for.</p></i> <p>I don't mean to be contrary, but that is just not true.</p> <p>Once again, I've never had my camera or lens slip on the QR plate with the camera in any position. Never. And I think I use a vertical orientation more than horizontal, and I don't tighten the plates on the camera very hard. A thin strip of cork does a fine job of grabbing onto the ribs on the bottom of my camera. Maybe other cameras are perfectly flat around the tripod mount.</p> <p>My good friend also uses flat plates, and he has the 70-200mm f/4 without the tripod collar. His camera never slips, either.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_kjellberg Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 <a href="http://www.novoflex.com/english/html/index_e.htm">Novoflex</a> makes a very good quick release called Miniconnect. The plates fit ANY camera or lens. And you only need one hand to fasten your camera if necessary. <p>That said I have started using REally Right Stuff myself. Mostly because of the L-plates (expensive), but also because the Novoflex QR does not fit well on an Arca Swiss or Really Right Stuff ballhead. But I miss its simplicity.</p> <p>John</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_gillette Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 All of the Arca Swiss type plates are comparably expensive, camera specific or not. You should expect to buy one for each camera/lens and leave it on. Swapping it around? That stops being "quick." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMWright Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 All of the good Arca-Swiss type heads are pricey as are the plates, even the generic ones. But they are worth it. I've had cheaper heads and was never quite happy. Get the head you like, get the plates you need, and never look back. BTW, I use square Kirk plates (PZ-31) for my camera bodies. They have anti-twist lips, which even if you never truly need them, is insurance and peace of mind. With a light body and light lens, they work great. I have longer plates affixed to each of my telephotos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_kim Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 I've used few ball heads on my Gitzo GT-2540, GT-2540G, and G1158, and my current favorite one is Arca Swiss Monoball series. I think the new Monoball Z1 series with an Arca-Swiss quick release plate may serve you well. It's cheaper, lighter and smaller than the now discontinued Monoball B1 series. It doens't require grease and I used it with my 70-200mm with 2X extender with very good results. Only small complaint that I have on the quick release plate is that it doesn't have a folding turning handle on bottom of the mouting screw, like the ones in Bogen plates so you need a coin or a screw driver to tighten it. If you don't use a coin or tools, you can't really tighten the screw so the camera/lens will shift. A minor inconvinience, but I've learned to live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 Arca may have the world's best QR system, but are sadly behind in the plate department. Get your plates from RRS, which have the same wedge dimensions but are custom-fitted to a particular model of camera. The screw has a socket head, and requires an Allen wrench (provided). They are intended to remain on that camera, and not swapped out. I've never had one loosen with use, because there is no slop between the plate and camera that might cause it to loosen. If it came to that, I'd use Loc-Tite blue (temporary) thread locker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_kjellberg Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 David, Avoid the flip lock quick release from Arca. You have to overtighten it if you don't want your camera to slide in it. It is really hard to open on a cold day (forget trying with gloves on). And if you carry it around open it can actually fall apart. The system that fits your description best is the Novoflex Miniconnect. Otherwise I really recommend the Really Right Stuff things. Very nice to work with. The plates don't cut into your hands and everything just functions. They remind me of my old EOS1n, seems allways to be better than expected. Their medium-sized ballhead (BH-40) should be right for your equipment. By the way I stopped using the battery grip on my 5d after finding out I got sharper pictures without. In both orientations, handheld. On a tripod the bottom of the battery grip is way too soft. Which simplified the choice of plate for me ;-) John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertbrown Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 I'm just about to plunk down some serious cash for a good ballhead. For several years I've been using a Manfrotto one that likes to slip, especially during long exposures (I blew a bunch of night shots recently because of this problem). I do a lot of macro work with my 5D: I often stack a Canon 100mm macro with a Canon life-size converter and three extension tubes (13, 21, 31mm)for fairly extreme macro work. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the RRS BH-40 or BH-55, though I'm pissed that about how expensive the quick release plates are. I usually bring three to five cameras when I'm in the field (two digital plus a few film cameras for b&w work). Any suggestions on ballheads? I should probably just fork out the money for RRS-55 and a few quick release plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad_ Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 >>> Any suggestions on ballheads? I started with the A-S B1. And then last year bought the RRS BH-40, cuz it was lighter and lower profile. It's a nice looking head, but I sure miss the progressive drag of the A-S due to it's aspherical ball. If I were to do it all over again, I'd first take a look at the new and smaller A-S Z1 before buying the BH-40. www.citysnaps.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_kjellberg Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I'm a new convert from Arca B1 to RRS bh-55. The Arca has a tendency for problems when it's cold. Gets very unsmooth. The tightening screw is on the wrong side for me (I'm right-handed), which makes me go nuts especially when I'm taking pictures downwards. But as far as I can judge so far it is much easier to get really high framing precision with the Arca than the RRS. When I tighten the RRS it moves slightly to the right and downwards (maybe half the center focus point on an EOS 5D). The Arca has no such tendency. But I'm getting better at getting the exact frame I want with the RRS, so maybe it's just a slightly longer learning curve. The RRS is lower. Nice for macro. It feels really good so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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