Getting started (again) in B&W processing

[ellis_vener_photography]

I am getting ready to get started (again, after 10 years) doing my own B&W processing & printing. This will be the first time I have processed LF film. And my question is: about how long (& number of runs) should I budget to get the basic bugs worked out of the system. Things like normal development times (because of the nature of the project I am planning on using the diluted Tmax RS developer approach to development), film handling, etc., you know: the mechanics. Because of the logistics of my house/studio, my plan is to use the Jobo processor system.</P>

I realize that no one can definitively answer this question for someone else as we are all different people, but some rough ballpark #s would be nice.</P> In advance, Thanks for your help!

[mike_rosenlof2]

Depending on how much of a calibration .. er ... _enthusiast_ you are,

it really shouldn't take you long to get to a very usable ballpark for

most "normal" lighting situations.

 

<p>

 

I don't know exactly how a Jobo works, but I develop in tubes with

constant rotational agitation. I've found Kodak's recomendations for

rotational processing for XTOL to work very well for printing on

Ilford MGIV with no filtration on my colorhead.

 

<p>

 

I'm not a zone system purist, I use a rather loose "OK, I'll give that

one a bit more exposure and pull developing 10%" non-system. I can

usually get a developer time I want with 4-6 sheets of film.

[lot_wxs]

You'll need about 50 developments with one film/developer combi.

[triblett_lungre_thurd]

I tray process(tempered) but I just wanted to say GO ELLIS! Looks

like you're finally gettin' a hobby. No more under or over in 1/3rd

stops, you get to blast that sucker. Have fun, It'll be nice for all

the zonies and testing freaks to give the master advice for once.

fer'

gawd's sake don't take any of mine.... constant agit with a Jobo in

undiluted RS..never work ...Just once though I'd like you to try this:

break out the trays and tray develop a Tri-x plate(320to200) in

full-strength RS, at 68f for 6 min to start and gently I mean very

gently rock the tray for the first and last 30 and 5 secs (or 5 gentle

rocking motions) every minute (the more developer in the tray the less

agit action so make that a controllable variable also). The liquid

developers really respond to gentle agit. More mush!

[tom_johnston1]

Some one above said "...50 developments"!!!!?????? I could calibrate

with precision for every film/developer combination I have with that

many tests. I tray develop, but I can offer one suggestion that you

might find useful. I have an old film holder and a set of darkslides

which are drilled in different spots so that I can do 12 tests on each

sheet of film (you could do 16 or 20 or even more on each sheet). You

don't need that many darkslides, though. By flipping them over you

use some for two test. I'm not going to try to describe this any

further (you may have seen this setup before - I didn't invent it).

The bottom line is that for a few bucks at a used camera store you can

set yourself up to do a 12 to 20 (or even more) tests on a single

sheet of film (the savings in film will more than pay for the holder

and darkslides). You can determine your E.I. on the first sheet

then plot a H/D curve for various development times with each after

each additional sheet is exposed identically at the the determined

E.I. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, I

would be happy to describe it in greater detail. It sure makes

testing much faster and more economical.

 

<p>

 

I know a photographer that has an even easier and faster method of

testing. He has a grid of stepped neutral density filters that he

simply photographs on a daylight balanced light table. One exposure

and he has a whole grid of tests.

 

<p>

 

50 tests????? I'd like to sell that man some film!

[chris_patti1]

Ellis:

 

<p>

 

While you can do as much zone system testing as you want, you

shouldn't feel paralyzed and unable to process anything until you've

done it. By using some relatively good source for development times

(The Practical Zone System has a series of development times for

various film/developer combinations I found useful) you should be able

to get decent results from the beginning.

[erik_ryberg]

Ellis,

 

<p>

 

You might look into the 4x5 step tablets Photographer's Formulary

sells. You just slide the things in right along with your film, make

the exposure, and you have the whole set of values. I use a smaller

one that I have to tape to the film but it works well too. The only

problem with these things is the cost - at 25 bucks you don't want to

buy very many of them so you are kind of stuck doing one exposure at a

time. But that one exposure yields a hell of a lot of information.