Jump to content

Are you happy with your M7?


Recommended Posts

I've had my M7 for two months. Traded my M6 for it. I love it. No problem whatsoever so far.

M6 in every way, only better. Even quieter shutter, if you can believe it. Now, I'm not saying the

honeymoon will last forever. After all, when you buy the first release of a new model of anything

that intricate, you'r bound to have a few surprises. But then again, it can prove to be THE best

M ever. What I don't like? Not much. The plastic battery cover that clicks in place a quarter turn,

and that I know I'll lose one day. The blinking red dot you get in the viewfinder when you set a

different ISO than the DX code or when you compensate. Not having the aperture show in the

vf in manual mode.That's all. Would I buy it again? Definitely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Karl, Great question! I have one and like it. The best thing for me

is the flare VF and the lock. I just traded my M6 Wetzler to get

a .58 VF M6 ttl(I really missed the .58 VF and the more sensitive

metering of the TTL). I used the M6ttl yesterday. Wow I must admit I

missed it! I tend to leave my M7 on auto and find myself always

adjusting the apeture anyhow. With the M6, I usually just leave it

on a fast shutter speed and do the arrow thing. I suppose I would

have never bothered with the M6ttl if I had waited for a M7 .58.

Anyhow its great having both. If you have the spare cash go for the

M7. Just make sure you get a VF your confortable with. If you want a

killer deal on M6ttl, NOW is the time to get one!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

only improvements desired: (1) no blinking to indicate compensation

set & actually show amount of comp; (2) asa range beyond 6400 (25.6K

much better) AND SEPARATE ASA AND COMP DIAL INTO SEPARATE DIALS (comp

dial moved to top deck around release??) (3) better spread of

mechanical speeds (the fm3a costs $500 and has them all), say 30-500;

(4) default to 1/500th when bottom plate is off so you don't get 32

sec surprise when set to auto; (5) include two spare battery covers

(and make them insulated meal instead of plastic); (6) make it harder

to switch camera off accidentally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Happy? Yes, absolutely.

Problems? No.

Buy again? Yes.

I like the much more silent electronic shutter of the M7 in comparison

to the noisy mechanical shutter of the M6 or M4-P. The main advantage

however is its automatic exposure. You can react very quickly; thanks

to AE taking a pic increases a lot. That's important for snapshots and

situation that last only a few seconds. No doubt, the M7 is the best

(means: most comfortable) M ever.

I'm bit disappointed by the viewfinder coating. It has not cured the

old Leica viewfinder disease. I don't see much difference to the

viewfinder of the M6 or M4-P.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried one (one of a few in the UK!!) a few days ago and was

immediately impressed with the AE, quieter shutter and shutter lock,

however hearing some of the stories on this forum, I am still

wondering if I should try and get one now or wait a while before any

bugs have been ironed out first.

Keep that feedback coming in!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's another utterly happy M7 owner. Besides the improvements

everyone else has noticed, I find it to be much more fluid in use

with the AE. Only having to make one setting (aperture) makes a big

difference to me in how much attention I can concentrate on the

subject. I've added a Motor-M, and that really puts the icing on the

cake. I have a .58 M7 on order, and when that comes in there will be

yet more used M6's on the market.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely happy. Only problem I seem to have is removing the

film cartridge easily when unloading. It no longer just drops out

because of the spring loaded DX contacts and I find myself

having to pull at the cartridge spindle to get it out. (Anything

suggestions here?)

 

<p>

 

As someone mentioned above, it would be nice if there was

some way to not have the lower display point light when you

manually set the ISO value such that it is different than the DX

code. I understand why it does this, but maybe some sequence

like pressing the shutter to AE lock five times in a row after you

load a new roll of film to let it know you've set the ASA correctly

would be good to add.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My M7 functions as described in the manual. I have had no problems.

I agree with Roger, the only things I would really like to see

is "Read my lips, no new plastic" (use of metal, insulated if

necessary, for battery cover and meter switch). Also, too many red

dots. They could make the manual exposure confirmation dot green

(indicating go ahead and shoot) instead of red.

 

<p>

 

But in my opinion, it is the most capable M so far, because of AE,

more accurate shutter speeds, and more accurate exposure due to

intermediate nearly stepless speeds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I purchased an M7 on March 23, it was perfect until last week.

I mounted the SF20 and when I turned it on the LCD displayed ISO 125,

I had Provia 160 loaded.

I turned the M7 off, removed the SF20 and turned the M7 back on. The

LED in the viewfinder displayed 125 for 2 seconds.

I re-loaded the same film cartridge and it still shows 125, I tried a

Provia 50 cartridge and the LED now showed 100 (these are factory

loaded cartridges with DX coding).

Installed two new batteries and the M7 still showed the wrong ISO.

I took it back to my local dealer who offered to send it to Leica for

repairs.

I told them I was very disappointed after paying $2350 for a camera

that needed to be repaired so soon, I asked for a replacement camera.

They called Leica in N.J. and they said they would replace it with a

brand new one but I'd have to wait because they are out of stock.

I asked for a refund and they gave it to me, I�m glad I kept my M6-

TTL.

By the way, I did experience some VF flare on the M7 while shooting

in a dark room with the subject in front of a bright window (strong

backlight).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul Chefurka wrote:

<i>...when that comes in there will be yet more used M6's on the market</i>

 

<p>

 

That's true IMO, I went to some shops today and discovered quite a few used classic M6's. Prices for a nice classic M6 are lower than I expected BTW. I saw a very nice chrome classic M6 for EUR 1400 (US$ 1288) and a nice Wetzlar M6 for EUR 1350 (US$ 1241).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark, to remove the exposed cartridge, what I do is place my left hand (I'm right handed) under

the cartridge , ready to receive it, and I tap the camera ever so gently with my right hand against

my left hand. It does the trick. The cartridge just drops half an inch or so and I can pull it out

easily. I think I read in the M7 manual, BTW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have had M7 for 2ish months, or so. Shot 5 weddings with it so

far ( another this coming Saturday), as well as some personal

work. Pros: Totally M6 like in feel. Very nice to be able to select

AE when you want it. Auto selects 1/50 when flash is mounted.

Cons: Experienced an electronic freeze up a couple of times.

View finder still flares. Unloading is slower, especially under

pressure. The flash fires when cocking the manual shutter ( but

not with the motor doing the winding ???). Use it now as first

choice BUT always have a M6 with me as back-up . I do not trust

it as a solo camera yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David. Marc's point is correct. Removing the film cannister is a

lttle more difficult with the M7 because of the contacts that detect

the DX code (which take up some space). Thus there is a tighter fit

for the film cannister. Well there is only so much space available

without making a larger body. BTW, my camera does detect and set the

correct ISO of the film loaded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think the unloading friction is a matter of space within the

cassette well. Rather, it's from the fact that the DX contacts are

spring-loaded. They need to be sprung to ensure good contact with

the canister. In cameras with flip-open backs these contacts are on

the back itself and withdraw from the canister when the back is

opened. In the M7 they have to stay permanently mounted in the

cassete well, so their friction interferes with getting the film out.

 

<p>

 

I agree that it's a bit of a drag...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Olivier,

 

<p>

 

I tried the tapping as the manual suggested, but 1) it made me

nervous because the thin plate on the bottom of the camera

under the base plate seemed somewhat flexible and I was

worried about damaging the mechanism under it, and 2) I was

expecting the canister to drop out all the way and tapping the

camera sufficiently to do this seemed very likely to break

something.

 

<p>

 

Having tried the method as you suggested, I now realize that you

really only need to move the roll down about 1/4"-1/2" and then it

becomes much easier to remove it by just pulling it out with your

fingers. Very gentle tapping is all that is required. So I am all set

now. Thank you.

 

<p>

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Hi,

 

I have an M2, M6 and just acquired an My four months ago...and this is the best Leica I have ever owned so far! I went just went on a report to Cambodia 2 months ago with both the M7 and the M6...the M7, equipped with the Leica motor drive, became my main camera body. Although it is a little heavier than the M6, it allows me to shoot faster. The film loading is also more convenient. Additionally, when you open the bottom, your roll does not fall as on previous Leica-M, which is quite nice when you are on the field running around with several cameras around your neck! I also found the film re-winding mechanism to be much smoother than on previous Leica M.

 

It is simply an incredible camera.

OL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...