Is a light meter still relevant with digital?

[douglascott]

I'm experimenting with new studio strobe flash set up and I'm considering making

the additional investment in flash meter, but I'm wondering, in the digital age,

how much value they still provide to more experienced photographers (not me). I

shoot entirely indoors in small studio and I do product shots for my own web

site. I submitted a picture recently on another post and several people

commented that it looked underexposed. With that particular item, I essentially

just kept tweaking the exposure until it looked "right," but apparently it

wasn't right to better trained eyes. Would a flash meter have helped, or is it

always trial and error? If so, could you recommend one that's under ~$300?

[Ed_Ingold]

A flash meter not only helps, it is almost essential for studio flash. How else would you set lighting ratios? Besides, a little trial-and-error goes a long way to un-impress your clients ;-)

 

I have a Sekonic L-508, a sort of Swiss Army Knife with spot, incident and flash capability built into one. You can probably find one used within your budget.

[craig_shearman1]

ISO is still ISO regardless of film vs digital, so a flash meter will give you the correct exposure without the need to guess. It's also essential for lighting ratios. Minolta used to be popular but is out of the camera business so Sekonic is the main player.

[beauh44]

<I>Minolta used to be popular but is out of the camera business so Sekonic is the main player.</i><P>

 

I was told that Kenko will be taking over the Minolta line of light meters. I hope that turns out to be the case. And while it's true that Minolta was bought out, I think Sony will carry on with bodies that are compatible with Minolta lenses.<P>

 

With regards to the OP, light meters can be very useful and in complex, tricky lighting situations, still invaluable with digital. However, if you master your camera's histogram you can certainly get close to the proper exposure very quickly without a light meter. Good luck!

[frank_skomial]

Studio strobes usually are not compatible (YET) with various flash measuring systems built into latest DSLR cameras from major brands.

 

So, flash meter is required, since DSLR camera cannot make proper determination of light from incompatible flash studio systems.

[chris_vincent2]

The Sekonic L-308S is available in the US for $150 and does everything you need for studio flash. (make sure its the latest 'S' model)

 

Once you get the lighting ratios which you and your clients like, you can dial them in every time if you use a meter.

[ronald_moravec1]

Put a full tone subject in place place of your final subject, shoot on manual and check the histogram to see that all the tones are represented and the whites are at the right and blacks at the left.

 

No meter will get you closer.

 

Lighting ratios can be figured by distance if the flashes are the same. The fill should be 1.4 times the distance of the main to the subject for close ratio, 2 times for higher contrast, further for really high contrast, and the same for fairly flat light.

 

Another way is to to do a custom white balance. Put a white board in place of the subject and the camera defines this as white. Read off the exposure from the metadata from the pic and use that exposure for the real pics. If you change focus significantly, the exposure needs to be changed but that is true of a flash meter also unless it a TTL meter. This is called bellows factor.

 

Use the same distance to subject as the white balance test and do not change the focal length if you are using a zoom lens without compensating unless it is a fixed aperture zoom.

[gaius1]

Before digital, there was this thing called "Polaroid". Everyone who knew anything still used a flashmeter. By all means experiment all you like - I assume you've fully calibrated the LCD* on your DSLR? No?

 

* Little crappy display

[edsel_adams]

If the lights you are using are all the same brand, and power, such as a pack & head kit. You can establish ratios with a measuring tape, by using distance. The instant results flashed onto a suitable monitor, would negate the need for a light meter for someone experienced with studio lighting.

[garry edwards]

This is a question that gets asked and answered fairly often - a search of the archives would have made the question redundant<p>

<i>"Lighting ratios can be figured by distance if the flashes are the same. The fill should be 1.4 times the distance of the main to the subject for close ratio, 2 times for higher contrast, further for really high contrast, and the same for fairly flat light."</i><br>This is an interesting approach, obviously based on the myth that the inverse square law applies to photography when using studio lighting. It doesn't, at least not in the linear terms expressed. The inverse square law applies only to point sources of radiation, we tend to use much larger light sources in photography, and to direct the light by means of reflectors.<br>Don't take my word for it, measure it for yourself. You'll need a meter of course...

[tony_clark]

A light meter is essential. How many times have you used a flash head that is not modified? I

always use a softbox, umbrella, beauty dish, grid or diffusion material unless it's to light an

all white background. Can you stand there and calculate the distance from the subject, power

setting of the flash head, the ratio of light to ambient in a fraction of a second to get the

exposure? I'll use the meter and save the brain power for more creative purposes.

[ronald_olsen]

I have a Sekonic meter. It's been gathering dust in a storage box ever since I got a digital camera. With practice, I got so good at estimating flash power/distance that I am rarely off by as much as 2/3 of a stop, usually right on or 1/3 stop. One or two test shots and I'm usually ready. Flash Guide Numbers are useful ! What is the difference between making a test shot with the meter vs. an LCD (and pop it into the Epson P-2000 for closer inspection, if needed) ? In my opinion, a test photo is more valuable than a meter reading, as it also tells you if your composition is what you want.

[peter_hart]

When people know their 'lighting setups' (pros who shoot everyday ususally know their equipment and situations well) they usually never have to meter. However, in a new situation they will always meter, so INVEST in a good meter.

 

The curious thing that one realizes after a while is that there is no 'correct' exposure. As my mentor told me 'what do you want to do?'. The meter will give you the grey/reference point, then you have to decide what to do. It gets fun when you start backlighting and being more creative, which is what fashion photogs do....portraits less so.

 

Peter

[steve_hovland]

Nikon digital manuals commonly say that the histogram on the camera won't necessarily match the histogram in photoshop.

 

For precise control and maximum image quality you need an exposure that gives you correct curves in PS.

[frank g.]

It is very relevant, I don't want to guess at the exposure, I want to be precise with my lighting and a flash meter does that.

[steve_hovland]

But if you don't have or can't afford a flash meter, you can use the histogram or flashing highlights.

[neil_poulsen8]

A light meter to determine exposure is relevant. I have a Sekonic 508, which I

really like.

 

But, I wonder if a color temperature meter is all that relevant with digital? Doesn't seem like

it.

[steve_hovland]

At the very high end of catalog photography and other areas I suspect color temp meter could be useful because some cameras can set specific temps. You would have to calibrate for accuracy just as you do for exposure.

[prophotohouston]

Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 2

 

 

[steve_hovland]

If your meter is calibrated correctly to the camera, you can be right on the first pop when using strobe.

 

My Canon is a stop faster than my Sekonic meters and my Nikon is 1/3 stop slower.