Very faint split image RF on early version M3

[asher]

My early model (1954) M3 split image is very faint, to the point that it is very difficult to focus in anything

less than daylight. It's not my eyes since I have no problems focusing a late model M6 TTL in low light.

Otherwise the M3 is working flawlessly as usual, including nice, bright framelines and excellent alignment

of the split image (when I can see it). I don't know if this is a new problem or if I've just become less

visually astute with time.<p>

 

A search of the archives revealed only a mention of adding an "orange patch" over the RF window.<p>

 

Is this just something I should accept given that this is one of the oldest M's or is there a simple solution

that's obvious to all you gurus out there? If an orange patch is the answer, what kind of material is best

and how should I attach it over the RF window? I will have the camera CLA'd in the next 1-2 months, but in

the interim I would like to be able to shoot with it in lower light. Thanks.

[subhash_tiwari]

Well, Asher, Here's a start-

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00JLnx&tag=

 

I finally sent mine to John at Focalpoint lens, and it cost $350. Its not here yet but john said its "better". We'll see...

[richie chishty]

I have the same problem with my 1954 M3 DS body. A CLA by DAG did not help with the dimness of the rangefinder patch. The camera is OK in daylight but hard to focus in dimly lit rooms at night. It is useable, but my M6 TTL is much better in those situations.

[runkel]

My impression is that a dim rangefinder patch is one of the very few things a CLA often can't fix. Sherry Krauter told me that if the factory seal is intact, it's a better bet that a CLA will help, simply because no one has tried that yet.

 

With so (relatively) many M3s out there, I really think your best bet is to replace yours with one that has a bright patch and spend your CLA money on that camera. This is also what Sherry told me. In my opinion there is no sense in rationalizing a "very faint split image" that you can only use in full daylight. That isn't how it should be at all, and when you get a better one you won't believe you considered accpeting something less than a fully functional M3.

[john_shriver]

CRR Luton in England can take apart the prism, re-silver, and re-cement. They do it routinely, price is 145 UKP. Certainly cheaper than punting and buying another M3.

 

They're always backlogged, but you can get in the queue. (The English are so good at queuing!)

 

http://www.angelfire.com/biz/Leica/page10.html

[ronald_moravec1]

E mail DAG camera repair. He may be able to recement parts and or have mirrors resilvered, something other repair people will not attempt.

 

If it works, it will be better than your M6.

[asher]

Thanks to all for the advice. I'll pursue one or more of these solutions after I shoot with it on

an upcoming trip. If the problem is resolved I will provide an update.

[asher]

Matthew- I appreciate your point regarding replacing the camera in lieu of pursuing a

potentially costly yet ineffective fix. However, I'm going to ask Youxin Ye to have a look first,

before I replace the whole camera. He's done excellent work at reasonable cost for me in the

past, and he's local.

[MTC Photography]

You may cut a piece of orange filter and stick in in front of one of

the rangefinder window to increase the image contrast. There was

a small accessory for Leica LTM, I cannot remember the Leitz code word for it; it is not cheap. I cut out a small piece of orange filter

from my Agfa color filter for RC paper and inserted it in one of the

rangefinder window of my IIIc to increase the contrast, and it works.

[stephen_w.]

How do you cut (glass) filters? Try developed C-41 color film, much easier.