how to deal with noise in sports shots

[sheryl_bury_michals]

to all:

 

I've been shooting digital a few years now, and I seem to still have

difficulties getting rid of noise from shots taken at ISO 800. I shoot for a

rugby team and my stuff is used on our website and on online publications, and

it would be nice if the end result action shots are a little less "grainy".

 

I use a canon 30D and a canon 100-400 IS USM for all my outdoor rugby work.

Color temp is at 5200K. I do use a UV and polarizing filter to reduce glare

that occurs in super-bright days, as well as the hood that came with the lens.

 

Is there anything else I should do before I shoot? Or, if I do need to fix

things post-processing, should I use any special programs? I've read on this

site about Noise Ninja, but the posts were about 2 years old.

 

I also use the despeckle in the Noise part of tools - and also try to use hadow

and highlight as well, but that doesn't always cut it.

 

cloudy days I have no problem. But super-sunny days can be a pain.

 

your help is appreciated.

 

sheryl

[ronald_moravec1]

For sunny days, lower the contrast and color saturation on the camera.

 

In Photoshop, there is the dust and scratches filter. It cuts film grain, so I would assume it will remove digi noise as well. READ the HELP on use of the filter. It is not straightforward clicking to apply.

 

Be leary of plug-ins as PS will manipulate the file the same way, you simply may have some manual work to do.

 

The bigger the camera sensor and lower the ISO, the less noise issuesthere will be. This is why the Canon 5D and other full frame sensors are popular.

[mark newcombe www.mcnphoto]

Noise ninja and neat image are really good. What ISO are you shooting? Post an example if you can or give us a link.

[stwrtertbsratbs5]

Are you shooting ISO 800 outdoors? If so, lower your ISO setting and open up your lens. And take off the polarizing filter (it blocks a lot of light) - you probably don't get that many reflections from people.

[beauh44]

Hi Sheryl,<P>

 

<I>But super-sunny days can be a pain</i><P>

 

Just curious but why would you be shooting ISO 800 on a super sunny day? I understand you probably want to freeze action but I suspect if it's very bright outside you could lower your ISO to at least 400 (and possibly lower) and still get a pretty fast shutter speed. In general, the higher the ISO, the more noise.<P>

 

It sounds as though you're probably getting the noise in the shadow parts of your images because on a "super sunny day" there will be lots of contrast between the bright parts and the dark parts.<P>

 

The more you can "expose to the right" using your camera's histogram (without blowing highlights) the less noise will be apparent. If you're not familiar with the term, try Googling "expose to the right" and/or "histogram".<P>

 

In the mean time, products like NeatImage and Noise Ninja are excellent. Good luck!

[x]

You don't say whether you shoot in Jpeg or raw. If you shoot raw you have more options for removing noise, plus a whole load of other advantages.

 

The old Raw Shooter Essentials converter was particularly good at dealing with noise, although it had its own set of problems, mainly in the area of colour reproduction

[lheusinkveld]

Did I read your post correctly? You are using both a UV and a polarizing filter at the same time, as well as the lens hood? No wonder you need ISO 800. Take both filters off the lens, and lower the ISO. I use that lens in bright sunshine for sports, and it will easily go as low as ISO 200 or even 100 in bright conditions.

[sheryl_bury_michals]

the polarizer I can take off, no problem. I had it on a while - when I was shooting in Aspen there was so much glare that it was necessary, and at the time helped a bit. But being not at altitude in Chicago, that may make things easier.

 

rugby is really fast paced, as the action shifts so much. I may not have a problem at shooting at ISO 400, though I was always told 800 was better for photography for fast sports such as rugby. On real bright days I go for 1/500 sec. - usually at f8 or higher.

 

Never played with the histogram much on the 30D(only the ones in PS) - and I shoot in JPEG - get more images that way.

 

just don't remember this being as much of a problem with film......a bit more grain (which I guess you could count as noise), as ISO 800.

[dave_nelson___atlanta__ga]

<p>Why at f8? Having so much in focus would leave the viewer confused as to what to focus on. f4 is my max for baseball, basketball, and football.</p>

 

<p>I recommend removing the polarizer, (note: both a UV and a Polarizer is serious overkill under any circumstance) and shooting in Tv mode at 1/500 or so, with an ISO setting of what ever it needs to be for that combination. Then post process with Noise Ninja if absolutely necessary.</p>

 

<p align="center"><img src="http://davenelson.smugmug.com/photos/122883188-S.jpg" border="2"></p>

 

<p align="center"><img src="http://davenelson.smugmug.com/photos/78602161-M.jpg" border="2"></p>

[stwrtertbsratbs5]

I often shoot basketball at ISO 1600 and f/2 because of poor lighting and fast action. And I shoot soccer in bright sunlight at ISO 100 at f/2.8 or f/4. I don't think rugby is any faster than soccer or basketball. Now formula 1 racing is another story.