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I need opinions on best print film for photographing wildlife (those that move

and those that don't move)and landscapes in Africa. I'll just have one camera

and on the safari drives cannot predict what we will encounter. I need the

highest quality film. I've used the Fuji Supra Xtra 400 in the past, but it

appears there are a lot of new films out there.

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There is no one 'best' film for all occasions, but there are films that are versatile enough to cover a wide range of lighting conditions. I would suggest a color negative film since they a)are rated above 200, which will be useful in low light, and b)have a wider latitude than transparency films. If you could answer a few questions it might help people make suggestions. How big will the prints be from these shots? Will you have the use of a tripod or will you be hand holding every shot? How important is fine grain to you? There are trade-offs for everything, so knowing what is important to you will make the suggestions more useful and less random.

 

- Randy

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Most any current film would be an improvement over Superia Xtra 400,

now that Konica and Agfa are out of business. I recommend trying

Fuji Pro 400H and Kodak UltraColor 400, then deciding which you like.

If you need more speed, Superia 800 is actually better than the 400.

New Portra 800 is excellent for a high-speed film; it's faster than

Superia 800, which probably ought to be shot at EI 640. Here is a <A

HREF="http://cacreeks.com/films.htm">Comparison Table</A> of various

films. Note Superia 400's low resolution in the Filmscan.ru test.

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I'm a fuji user and rate superia 400 well. It does not like high contrast lighting though. If your shooting is going to be in the shade in the mornings and/or evenings then I would say superia is your man. However if you are shooting in direct sun and encountering high contrast then fuji 400H or NPH will be better. Reala is a superb 100 asa film but I would imagine you will be aiming to keep shutter speeds up so 400 asa is the best in my opinion.
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"I've used the Fuji Supra Xtra 400 in the past, but it appears there are a lot of new films out there."

 

Xtra 400 isn't bad. If you want to reduce contrast, meter for the shadow (or simply shoot it at 160ISO.)

 

Actually, it's hard to go wrong with either Kodak's or Fuji's high speed portrait emulsions. I've found the most significant difference to be one of color palette. Kodak tends to be warmer.

 

Take along a few rolls of the old Kodak Gold 100 (aka Bright Sun) as well. Grainy, yes, but sharper than any color film available. It also has fantastic latent image keeping abilities. I've had Gold 100 loaded in an old RF, kept in the car glove box for six months, and have seen very little color shifts through all the repeated temperature cycling.

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I haven't seen a print film that equaled slide film in Landscape or wildlife photography. Reala is pretty good as far as print film goes, but I would hesitate to use speeds faster than 100 for big blowups unless you don't mind grain.

 

UC400 is pretty good as far as fast print films goes but reala or UC is not in any slide film league.

 

Were I to have money and time to go to Africa, I doubt any print film other than B&W would go with me. I would take some Provia 400F and Velvia 100 RVP and 50 RVP if you can find it.

 

I would also take an extra camera even if it is a used Elan 2E for lens compatibility. Put the 400 in one camera and the 100 in the other.

 

If this were me anyway.

 

Dave

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I'd say talk some kodak gold 100, fuji reala 100, and some kodak uc 400.

Like robert said above, the gold is very sharp. The reala has excellent grain and a very wide dynamic range. Kodak uc 400 isn't bad but I'd set it for 320, it performs much better with less grain at 320. No Actually I'd take kodak hd 400 instead of the uc, it's awesome and looks like a 400 speed gold 100 with slightly better color and without the grain.

 

So I say fuji reala 100 and kodak hd 400.

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Thanks Dave - I think I'm convinced to use the Slide film now. I've got to play with a few rolls and make sure it's exposing right before I try it out for real. I've never shot slide film before. I'm not worried about landscapes because I can bracket. It's just those fast moving creatures. We should see some kills from what our guides say.

 

I guess it makes sense to buy a second camera used. That is good advice from a couple of you guys. I can get a good used camera for 500 or so.

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> <I>I haven't seen a print film that equaled slide film in Landscape or wildlife photography.</I>

<P>

Several 320-640 speed print films have higher resolution than the

highest resolution 100 speed slide films, and wider exposure latitude.

E.g. Fuji Press 800, NPH 400, and Kodak 400UC. <A

HREF="http://filmscan.ru/articles/article07.html">Test data here</A>.

Kodak 400UC approaches slide film in density range.

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Bill wrote: "Several 320-640 speed print films have higher resolution than the highest resolution 100 speed slide films, and wider exposure latitude. E.g. Fuji Press 800, NPH 400, and Kodak 400UC. Test data here. Kodak 400UC approaches slide film in density range."

 

 

 

Resolustion is one thing, color reproduction is another. Even resolution of Velvia slide film when shot through good glass is unchallenged. There is no print film, absolutly no print film I have ever tried in 30 years of photography that records subtle hues like good slide film and there have been damn few slide films over the years as good as Velvia. True the lattitude is narrower but once you learn, the third or half stops over or under are plenty. Of all slide films, I have seen no film that handles difficult situations and perfect color reproduction of all hues, regardless how subtle, as I have found with Velvia 50 or better yet the new 100 RVP which is less saturated but still honest. I see no reason to shoot any other film for landscape. The only thing that is as close (make that as good as velvia) is a good high end digital such as a 5D Canon or 1Ds w/ full frame sensor and good glass.

 

Lee would be much further ahead to take the 30D instead of shooting print film, esspecially for lattitude.

 

JMHO

 

Dave

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Lee, you have good glass; but I would second the advice above for a second body on your trip of a lifetime, even if it's only used as a spare.

 

LANDSCAPE SHOTS:

 

Although Velvia 50 and 100 (but NOT 100F) for landscape shots is fantastic when projected -- As is Kodachrome -- when you scan to print you want to avoid a film that will "block up" in the saturated colors, since you can always ADD to the saturation in Photoshop; but once the film itself has been saturated (blocked up colors) you can't recover the lost details in Photoshop.

 

Instead, for scan-to-print, use Astia or E100G chrome film.

 

Here's a suggestion: Consider an inexpensive medium format camera to shoot your landscape chromes! There's nothing to be afraid of: There's no substitute for that big piece of film that's 3-4 times the size of that tiny 35mm frame... Especially when you go to scan it. If $$$ are getting tight, consider a basic used TLR such as a Mamiya 220 or 330, or Rollei -- You can buy one used on eBay; and sell it when you get back home.

 

The trick when shooting chromes with an old camera is to use another camera, such as a 35mm or even digital, to do the metering... And bracket, bracket, bracket!

 

-----------------

 

SHOOTING FAST-MOVING TARGETS

 

This is the exact opposite of shooting landscapes on a tripod; and in your case it'll be doubly challenging since your platform is a moving Jeep bouncing along. When you first arrive, take a bunch of test shots with your image stabilizer lenses when they are screwed on to your 30D as your guide drives along, then look at the results on your laptop: You'll need to do this to determine each lens' optimum IS settings.

 

Also, be SURE to bring along Sensor Swabs & fluid, along with a CCD dust brush: The brush should be OK; but in case some Really Nasty Stuff gets on the CCD, you're screwed.

 

--------

 

As you can see from my portfolio here, and also whhat's on my home page, you can see I shoot motorsports; and, on occasion, landscape and other subjects. The key is to use the right tool for the job, whether it's a dSLR, medium format, swing-lens panorama, or even large format (if conditions permit).

 

Hope this helps!

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Dan - yes that helps quite a bit.

 

I'll be able to tell the jeep drive to stop, there is only 6 people in the vehicle so i won't have to shoot anything in a moving vehicle. I will have a second camera an EOS 3 (My son will use the 30D - i'm not bringing my laptop), just bid on it in EBAY just 300 to 350 bucks. Look at my other posting for more specific questions regarding fast movers.

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Here's a weird thought. Why not just soak in the sights with all your senses and leave the cameras behind? It's amazing how much you don't experience when you're trying to make photographs. Though I photograph all the time for pay and for self-expression, I never take photos when on a personal trip or at family/social events. To my mind, photography tends to narrow the experience. Just one man's opinion.
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I second the advice given earlier for using fuji Provia 400 for wildlife and action and Velvia 50 or 100 for your landscapes.If you don,t have to travel too light I would also suggest for the best landscape shots (especially sunrise and sunset),a tripod,2 ND graduated filters ( 03 and 06 ) and a circular poloriser.Good luck!
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Thanks - i agree with what you are saying regarding soaking in the sites, we will be on safari 8 hours a day, 4 hours in the morning and 4 in the evening after sunset.

 

I'm going to run some tests, do you think a canon 1v can auto expose well enough with Provia 400 with fast movers? I have talked to some labs and they indicate they are seeing very good results autoexposing Provia 400.

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