Old wood field cameras for beginner?

[dan_brittain]

Would one of the older wood field cameras like Korona, Kodak, or Burke & James be well suited for a beginner? They seem to be fairley inexpensive and I feel comfortable doing a little wood work if needed. I am primarily intrested in landscapes and will probably hike with it. Do they accept the modern polaroid backs? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[ron_shaw]

They should be fine, if in decent condition. Most LF cameras are

fairly simple devices. If the camera takes standard film holders, it

should take a polaroid back.

[david richhart]

You could even get a little simpler, and probably cheaper, with a

decent Graflex speed graphic. It's not a true view camera in terms of

all the moves but... <p>

You get those great 4x5 negatives...it folds up and is very

portable ... it can be used without a tripod ...and the absence of a

lot of movements simplifies the learning process. <p>

Its not the ultimate camera, but its a great place to start. I bought

one 30 years ago, and I still love to use it. <p>

For more information go to www.graflex.org

[david_f._stein]

In that vein, a Busch Pressman can be even more versatile: no focal

plane shutter but generous rise, good tilt and some side shift; plus

excellent ground glass/hood combination: even though the back rotates,

there are tripods mount bottom and side: Somewhere between a Pacemaker

Crown Graphic and a Super Grap

[david_clark]

Hi, it's often harder to find an older camera in useable condition

than you would first think would be the case, and wood work is the

least of your problems. On the other hand, you will be hiking who

knows where, and if an emergency arises, as long as you have matches,

you can burn the camera to cook a rabit or signal for help. A Graflex

might be an better way to ease into large format, a sound one from a

reliable dealer. Best regards, David

[pete_andrews]

It really depends how old you are talking about. If it's so old that

it uses "bookform" plateholders, forget it, it's a collectors piece.

There are a lot of obsolete format cameras about as well, don't get a

Whole-plate, half, or quarter-plate, you simply can't get those film

sizes anymore, and conversion could cost more than the camera's worth.

 

<p>

 

Most more recent wooden cameras have a simple spring back that limits

their use to Double Dark slides, or a modern polaroid adapter. (The

older Polaroid backs require an "international" fitting, where the GG

holder removes completely, leaving two sliding clips at the side).

Remember too that the cameras you've mentioned are probably going to

be 50 to 60 years old minimum. It's unlikely that the original bellows

will still be in good condition; at the very least they'll need a bit

of TLC. Replacement bellows can be expensive. Many of these older

cameras had fixed lenses, or the lens board was part of the cross

front, making it difficult to fit a modern lens to them. In that case

you should make sure that it comes with a lens, and that the lens and

shutter are in good condition. Having said all that, if you can find

an old wooden camera with a useable format, with bellows and lens in

good condition, go for it.

[david_kirk1]

I don't want to put you off buying an older wooden camera, but unless

you trust the dealer DO NOT buy unless they allow you to try it out

first and are comfortable with it.(Usually this means set it up in

the shop and, given that they have one, try a polariod back in it.

So, if they do let you do this, and you are satisfied then buy it -

see if they can throw in a couple of used fidelity's in preference

over wooden filmholders, and some film.

But above all whatever you finally buy, be it a 'cheap old' Burke &

James to a top of the line Linhof with all the bells and whistles

(which out of preference I would not touch, I'd rather spend the

money on lenses or film), remember to keep takng practicing with it

without film loaded so that you are comfortable with it this stops

you missing the first exposure when you first use it - Im my

experience it then means you bugger up exposure number 16:)

[triblett_lungre_thurd]

hee, ok I've never understood cannibalism. The kinds that make you

burn your camera and eat your wife/pa that is. I've always found it

easier to rotate down the mountain to the leeward side and find

kindling and food(country boy can survive). A Ries leg works great as

a spear for fishing. A dismounted protar and the rays of the sun will

start a wonderful forrest fire too. So do look around for kindling

and get down off that hill at best possible speed.

 

<p>

 

Dan, I'd bite the bullet and save for a while and do some real hard

research on landscapers and their cams and weights and how serious a

hiker you really are and just how remote those locations might be ...

then buy.

[saulius_eidukas2]

Dan,

I personally think you are on the right track. If you have no view

camera experience I'd stick to 4x5 to start, plus smaller equals

lighter for hiking. A simpler camera with fewer movements may be the

way to go if you are using just for landscapes. I myself purchased

and 8x10 B&J about 2 years ago and am quite satisfied. It has a

descent amount of movements and I like the larger negatives for

contact printing. At this point in my life am still willing and able

to lug more equipment into the field. Be sure to do a little

research, check out ebay as well as reputable dealers and when

purchasing make sure you have time to try out the camera with the

option of returning it. Best of luck and enjoy!