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Graflex 1000


jwalk

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I was wondering if anyone had a PDF copy or even a photocopy of the graflex

1000 operating manual or repair manual. I am receiving one of these

shutter/lenses and I don't want to screw it up operating it incorrectly. From

what I have heard it can be cantankerous.

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I don't have a copy but I do have a camera and have taken the shutter apart and repaired it so I can give you a few tips.

 

The later shutters had the tip of the top shutter blade bent up at about a 45 degree angle for the final 1/8". You should be able to see this if you look in the lens. If the tip isn't bent up, the shutter blades had a strong tendency to interfer with each other at high speed with disasterious results. I have seen a box of 10 shutters in that condition. the other weak link in that shutter is some small nylon gears that operate the shutter leaves. Repair parts for these shutters are almost unobtainable.

 

If your shutter doesn't have this latest modification it is probably a good idea not to use it. If it does, it is probably a good idea not to use it either.

 

If you insist on using it, you cock it by twisting the chrome lens shade clockwise. The lens shade un screws and becomes a series 7 (if I remember correctly) filter holder when you unscrew it counter clockwise.

 

Again if I remember correctly (I am not at home with my reference materials), the Graflex 1000 is esentually a Crown Graphic with the special lens shutter combination which would normally be installed on the "Super Speed". The super speed being a metal camera that unlike all other "Speed" graphics didn't have a focal plane shutter.

 

The super speed had a special shutter trigger circuit which had wires built into the bellows and fired the shutter electronically through contacts on the lens board.

 

As I remember from the literature (I have the Super Speed not the 1000) the 1000 fires normally.

 

I have a copy of the sales literature for your camera, I will try to get it scanned and posted for you.

 

Hope this helps

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<a href=http://www.photobooksonline.com/books/shutter.html> Photo Books Online </a> #90025 or <a href=http://www.craigcamera.com/> Craig camera</a> #90025. I have the Craig camera "copy machine" copy and the detail in the pictures is lacking. I have a different manual from Photobooks and it is like a scanner copy, very detailed.<br>I have three of these shutters and have CLA all three wth the help of the Carig Camera Manual. There are two levers at the base of the shutter, one selects between M and X flash sync while the other opens the lens for focusing and closes it. <B>DO NOT</B> cock or trip the shutter with the lever in the <B>O</B> open position. If everything works smooth as silk use it, if not CLA it. When I had mine down I rubed extra fine graphite into the shutter and aperture blades and pivitos using a q-tip which helped the smoothness of the shutter. Fred Lusting in Reno Nevada may have parts and does repair these shutters. His contact info is in post on this site as well as Graflex.org.
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Neal thank you for the helpful tips, I heard somewhere to do everything slowly and gingerly, such as cocking the camera. Maybe that has to do with the nylon gears you mentioned.

Charles, I will probably just give up and go buy the manual from one of the sources you mentioned. Here's a question though. The shutter i have is slow on 1 and 1/2 second. Would you still recommend a CLA for that or should it be okay??? I hate to tear it apart for just those 2 speeds which I don't use much anyway. Whats your opinion?

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The Graflex 1000 shutters do not have a 1 second speed. Are you sure its a 1000 shutter and not just a graflex shutter on a pacemaker 1000 body or on a Super body? The Graflex 1000 shutter is cocked by turning the lens shade clockwise and turning it counterclockwise it comes off for insertion of series VI filters. <br>The 1000 shutter has 3 timing gear trains, 1st. 1/125, 1/250, and 1/500; 2nd. 1/30 and 1/60; 3rd. 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15. In the troubleshooting section it says to clean and lube the timing gear train if speeds are slow.<br>My determination for CLA on the 1000 shutter is how smoothly the shutter blades operate. If the shutter blades do not operate smoothly one runs the risk of striping one of the nylon gears that operate the shutter leaves. Operate the Open-Close lever several times. Does it feel smooth every time? The lever is on a pivot with a spring and operates a nylon gear that moves the shutter blade plate. The shutter blades and their gears have the main influence on how the lever feels.<br>From the manual: The shutter leaves are driven by a master drive gear which rotates only in one direction. Each shutter leaf is eccentrically mounted and guided by a stud operating in a crescent shaped slot. This causes an eliptical montion of the shutter leaves when in operation.<br>The nylon gears that strip easily and give this shutter its reputation are the ones that sit on the stud and mate into the crescent shape in the leaves. The gears mesh with the main drive gear. The drag on the leaves and their nylon gears is the major consern. In conventional shutters the shutter leaves piviot only and operate smoothly once the levers that operate them, that are glued shut by dried lubericant, are loosened or removed and rarely do the blades require removal for cleaning. The 1000 shutter timing gears and drive gear usually work fine but the shutter blade gears do not and cause all the trouble. Sorry if I've been redundant. Keep an eye out for a backup/parts shutter also.
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